Rivet gun question - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-09-2010, 07:53 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
DannyH's Avatar
 
Name: Dan
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13 ft "Siesta"
Oregon
Posts: 546
Registry
Yesterday I bought a blind rivet gun, along with some rivets to play with. I didn't have anything I wanted to rivet, so I just put in a couple to see how it works. After trying a couple out, I was surprised that on the last part of the down stroke, that closes the handle, it didn't snip the rivet flush. Isn't it suppost to do this? If not, what is the proper way to snip the rivet flush, maybe to use pliers? I looked online, but they just explained what a blind rivet was.

__________________

__________________
Dan H
Oregon
DannyH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2010, 10:48 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Harry Young's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1971 Astro (ie. Campster/Hunter I)
Posts: 437
Send a message via MSN to Harry Young Send a message via Yahoo to Harry Young
Post

Danny,

I need more info...Are you riveting two pieces together? or testing it in a single drilled hole? The stress point where the rivet snips off is pre-engineered at a specific point along the rivet shaft and requires a specific thickness of material matched to a rivet engineered to that thickness for the snap to occur correctly.

To just answer the question...I guess the answer is Yes, the rivet shaft is supposed to snap off at the end of its travel when the rivet bottoms out...If the right rivet is matched to the right thickness of material.

Happy Camping, Safe Trails.

Harry
__________________

__________________
Harry Young is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2010, 12:02 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
peterh's Avatar
 
Name: Peter
Trailer: 2005 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Oregon
Posts: 1,519
Registry
As Harry said: Blind rivets are designed so their shaft snaps at a specific depth, leaving the head of the shaft lodged tightly enough to form a water-tight seal in the rivet.

This is what I think of when you say "rivet gun:"

Click image for larger version

Name:	10Jan09_Pnuematic_Riveter.JPG
Views:	67
Size:	104.8 KB
ID:	25837
__________________
peterh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2010, 08:00 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
DannyH's Avatar
 
Name: Dan
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13 ft "Siesta"
Oregon
Posts: 546
Registry
Thanks for the replies. Mine is called a hand riveter, I just called it a gun and didn't know they actually had a gun. Now I know I need to rivet two pieces together, not to do an "Air" attempt without material, to get the rivet to break correctly.
__________________
Dan H
Oregon
DannyH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2010, 10:05 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Bill MacDermod's Avatar
 
Name: William
Trailer: 1999 17 ft Casita Spirit Deluxe ('Inn EggsIsle')
Florida
Posts: 611
The word "blind" means that you use it with only access from one surface. The rivets used on these trailers are round heads which stick above the surface after breaking, flush rivets have to be countersunk and you usually have to have access to both surfaces, front and back. Sometimes the center pin in the rivet sticks above the suface after being broke off but, its usually not a problem. If it is sometimes it can be knocked flush with a small drift punch. Most folks even in the sheet metal trade still call it a gun, its just not a pneumatic gun. Hope I understood you right.
__________________
Love being Inneggsile
heading sloowly up the eastcoast to our next 2 month (Aug and Sept) camp hosting gig at Camden Hills State Park in Maine
Bill MacDermod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 07:38 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Joe Z's Avatar
 
Trailer: Casita
New River AZ
Posts: 1,043
Rivet gun is in place and on the rivet....after you squeeze the handle the first time open the handle and push the rivet gun back down flush and squeeze a second time.... keep doing this and it will snap off flush. Be sure on the back side that the rivet is where it's supposed to be up against the object.
Joe
__________________
Joe and Linda
2013 Casita SD
Dodge Ram 4x4
Joe Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 09:57 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Bud Kennedy's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1984 U-Haul / 02 Mazda pick up
Posts: 174
If possible, an aluminum washer on the back side of the rivet will do much in making the connection trouble free. This is especially important when the riveted surfaces are thin, brittle or flexible.

Alas, this is not possible in my double walled u-haul.
__________________
Bud Kennedy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 10:17 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Tom U's Avatar
 
Name: Tom
Trailer: Fiber Stream 16 ft
California
Posts: 382
Registry
Quote:
Yesterday I bought a blind rivet gun, along with some rivets to play with. I didn't have anything I wanted to rivet, so I just put in a couple to see how it works. After trying a couple out, I was surprised that on the last part of the down stroke, that closes the handle, it didn't snip the rivet flush. Isn't it suppost to do this? If not, what is the proper way to snip the rivet flush, maybe to use pliers? I looked online, but they just explained what a blind rivet was.
Hi,

When you are using a pop-rivet tool this sometimes happens with a long rivet or thin material. What I do is release the handle, re-grip the rivet closer to the material and squeeze again. This always has popped the stem from the rivet for me.

Hope this helped.
__________________
Tom - '79 Fiber Stream

There is no such thing as an all black cat.
Tom U is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 02:24 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Chris McVeigh's Avatar
 
Name: Chris
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Nova Scotia
Posts: 103
Registry
My riveting experience

I replaced my roof vent and two windows this year, both had butyl putty tape sandwiched between them and the trailer. I found that it took three pulls to snap the rivet.

Along with having trouble getting the pin to snap off flush, the third pull would pull the thin flange of the vent hard to the surface of the trailer leaving a dimple - the spaces between the rivets heaving up to form gaps even with the putty. Even if I filled the gaps it still looked bad so I started again.

After seating the putty between the flange and the fiberglass I placed all the rivets in the holes and gave each rivet two pulls. When all rivets were tight but not snapped and before anything dimpled I used a Dremel rotory tool with a cutoff wheel to cut the pin flush.

Using this method left the pin totally flush with the top of the rivet head. The soft metals smooshing together leaving no hole or even a gap. I dabbed each head on my roof vent with butyl caulk just to be sure.

A lot of work I know but it worked for me with what I had.



__________________
Chris McVeigh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 02:51 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Trailer: Former Casita 17 ft owner
Posts: 1,498
One caution for you riveters: be sure to use aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels. Aluminum rivets with steel mandrels can crush the fiberglass before the mandrel breaks.
__________________
Morgan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 03:13 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Name: Darwin
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,030
Send a message via Yahoo to Darwin Maring
Also: Steel rivets will rust.

Chris has the solution for a neat installation.
__________________
Darwin Maring is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 03:40 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Raya's Avatar
 
Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,014
The issue Chris mentions (and that he solved, so it's not insurmountable) is one reason I prefer to use machine screws/nuts when I have access to the backside. Not that there's anything wrong with rivets (and they're the cat's meow when you are in a production setting, and/or do not have access to both sides), but with machine screws it's possible to tighten just as much as necessary but not too much. And you can go back and change the tension on one if you feel like it.

Just another option.

Raya
__________________
Raya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 06:09 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
DannyH's Avatar
 
Name: Dan
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13 ft "Siesta"
Oregon
Posts: 546
Registry
Thanks for all the great information.
__________________

__________________
Dan H
Oregon
DannyH is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rivet Gun Rarebird General Chat 7 04-15-2010 10:34 PM
Rivet sizes? Parker Buckley Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 12-04-2009 06:20 PM
Rivet Caps Parker Buckley Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 7 09-23-2009 04:30 PM
Rivet Question Gail Shook Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 9 09-26-2008 05:02 PM
Rivets, rivet caps, rivet gun BOBSMITH Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 7 06-11-2008 10:24 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.