Rivet replacement - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-29-2012, 03:38 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Steve and Rosemary View Post
Here are the tasks I need help with:
1. How do I re-rivet and cap a Scamp? Note: we have no tools or idea. 8*/
2. After removing silicone, how can I plug extra holes so the don't show?
For "re-riveting", you'll have to buy a rivet gun. Hand riveters work fine for aluminum rivets and aren't expensive. I presume you'll only be replacing missing rivets, if any...do NOT remove/replace any rivet that's still tightly seated, even if missing it's "cap". The cap is cosmetic only- it's the tight rivet that keeps the water out.

I'm not sure what you mean by "extra holes"- if it's missing a rivet, that's what should go there.

If not a rivet hole, I recommend that since patches of all kinds are nearly impossible to hide, nylon/plastic hole plugs will fill the hole and look reasonably tidy. They're available in a wide range of sizes, and in white like your Scamp.

Francesca
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:06 PM   #16
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You need a new 1/8 drill bit to drill out the center of the rivet, and a rivet gun.

You can save yourself a big head ache of searching for the correct sizes at the hardware store and order pre packaged rivets and caps and cap holders directly from Scamp that will have all the sizes you will need in sets. You will also need to buy some new acorn nuts for the inside.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:13 PM   #17
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After replacing the rivets, go to the "Not Polyglow" post to see how to make the outside look like new again. There is a product to remove silicone from places not wanted, and it can be purchased at your local hardware store.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:15 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Steve and Rosemary View Post
Here are the tasks I need help with:
3. After plugging holes and fixing rivets, I'd like to freshen up the surface of the outside. Is this possible? How?
If its not to badly oxidized I have had good results using the 3M Restore and Wax product sold at most marine stores or if its has heavy oxidization the 3M Compound works very well.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:44 PM   #19
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Name: Steve and Rosemary
Trailer: 89 Scamp 16 ft side toilet
Utah
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Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. As soon as it dries and warms here we're going to clean off all the silicone globs and give her a thorough buff with boat wax. I think there are some holes that are a result of a previous owner's infatuation with a drill so I'll have to address those seperately. Speaking of which, I've read of people using bondo... thoughts? If we decide to not drill out rivets to replace the caps, is there a good way to determine if they're tight or not? I've read here that drilling out and re-riveting isn't difficult but a friend told me it's tricky. Are ther any step by step threads nearby?

In the meantime, I'm going to work on organization and try to make our bed bigger (we're both almost six feet and he's built like a barn door). If you know of good remods, I'm always looking for that perfect solution. I'll post before and after photos as we go. Wish me luck!
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:06 PM   #20
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I would do all your polishing and clean up work first then replace rivets and caps as necessary. running polishers and stuff over broken rivet caps is far easier than dodging them and having to do teadious hand work around existing caps. For installing rivets its no big deal with 2 people. one pushes the rivet and the tool from the outside and the other person pushes out around the rivet from the inside. get a piece of 1/4" metal tubing from the hardware or auto parts and make a tape handle for it. make it a foot long or so. then when the outside person pushes the rivet in from the outside the inside person pushes all the stuff from the inside towords the outside with the rivet inside the tube tool. this allows everything to pull up nice and tight. After your 3rd rivet your a pro. if you dont like the way it pulls up drill out the rivet and try again.
get a board or piece a metal and practice a few times so you can see how a rivet works and how really simple it is compaired to running nuts and bolts.
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:49 PM   #21
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Iget a piece of 1/4" metal tubing from the hardware or auto parts and make a tape handle for it. make it a foot long or so. then when the outside person pushes the rivet in from the outside the inside person pushes all the stuff from the inside towords the outside with the rivet inside the tube tool. this allows everything to pull up nice and tight.
Steve,
I can't quite figure out the purpose of the foot long tubing and how it works. Just can't visualize it. Can you explain a little more about how it helps?
Thanks, Linda
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:45 AM   #22
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When the rivet sticks through the shell it has to go through all the stuff inside whether its cabinet flanges or curtain rod hooks or what ever you want to attach to the walls. you want to push this material up against the wall so you have to hold the piece in place and hold a back-up washer or acorn nut. this is hard on the hands pushing this up in place in ackward places while holding the pieces too. if you put the pieces in place then take the tube tool and place it over everything with the rivet inside the tube it makes it easy to hold everything in place and push the tool out against the shell right around the rivet where it counts. the rivet then expands inside the tool. this makes a nice tight snug assembly rather than trust the rivet to expand and pull everything up tight. it is much easier on the person pushing the assembly in place and the person poping the rivet.
The tube inside is bigger the the rivet swells up to, so you just move it to the next spot.
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:15 AM   #23
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Got it Steve thanks. That's a great suggestion.
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:02 PM   #24
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You make it sound so easy! Luckily I have a few months to build up courage. Heck, I'm not sure I even know what a rivet looks like! Thanks everyone for the tips.
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:56 PM   #25
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rivet caps

I bought the whole set of rivet caps from Scamp.
For around $10 I got enough caps for the whole trailer and some caps on the trailer are smaller than others -so buying the set from Scamp means you get all the right sizes.
They sent them quickly too.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:32 PM   #26
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Name: Steve and Rosemary
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Ricky, you're not the first person to suggest that I buy the caps and rivets from Scamp. As a matter of fact, I was going to ask about the rivets -- Scamp sells 8 different sizes but I don't know if I need them all. Some folks have said all I'll need is a 1/8" drill bit to drill the old ones out so I'm assuming the 8 different sizes available are for length. Is this correct? Is there any sure fired way to know what size a rivet is based on it's location on the trailer or is it just sort of a guessing game? Try this length, try another length...?
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:06 PM   #27
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The 1/8 drill bit is sufficient for whacking off the head of most rivets, which is how they're removed. If properly done, the rest of the rivet just slides out and leaves behind a hole of the originally appropriate diameter....and evidently Scamp used a variety in that department. But that's the only trailer-wide common use of the 1/8 bit!

Scamp's rivet page indicates that they're differentiated not just by length but by shaft diameter/size. The diameter of the rivet's hole combined with the depth of the surface it has to go through determines the size of the rivet to be used.

Hole size/rivet diameter are important mostly for load bearing- the bigger the rivet the heavier the load.

Length is important since there are limits within which the rivet will effectively operate, and one that's too long will NOT tighten up properly.

Since Scamp's webpage offers rivets in eight sizes, it's fair to assume that's how many you'll encounter on your trailer. You might cut down on necessity for many different shaft diameters by committing to replacement of all with the biggest diameter (heaviest load-bearing), provided that diameter is available in the lengths you need.

It's a simple enough matter to drill smaller holes out to the bigger diameter...

This of course assumes that the cosmetic caps are of a uniform size, and not conspicuously different for different places.

Note:
Though length is pretty much cast in stone, you can fudge it a bit with a longer rivet by use of aluminum washers on the blind side. Not the best practice, but it works, as I can attest!

Francesca
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:07 PM   #28
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rivets

All our rivets were fine-just missing most of the caps.
Used an adhesive that someone recommendedon this site.
Just put new caps on-made the trailer look so much better.
Sitting here looking out the window-snow-so am now planning and waiting for the right time to pull Tante Marie out of hibernation!
Good luck with the rivets.
Mrs.C
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