Rivets on Jalousie windows - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-04-2014, 12:45 PM   #1
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Name: Richard
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Rivets on Jalousie windows

Hi Everyone!

My two jalousie windows have small leaks so I am going to pull them out, and put new butyl tape on them and reinstall as per that great video by Kevin Johnston on Youtube (thanks Kevin!).

Question is this:
On that video the window had #14 stainless screws installed, whereas mine has rivets. Once I drill the rivets out, can I replace with #14 stainless screws or should I use rivets again? Seems to me the screws would hold better to the inside of the window in the wood strips no?

Would love some thoughts on this before I pull 'em out

My two small windows are riveted as well.

Thanks!!
Richard
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Old 07-04-2014, 01:30 PM   #2
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Do you have a wood frame inside the fibreglass? I am not familiar with Boler trailers, but in a Trillium, the screws go through the window, and fibreglass, into a wood frame.
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Old 07-04-2014, 04:59 PM   #3
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Most Bolers do not have wood frames, especially if the windows were fastened with rivets.

One consideration is that any dissimilar metals touching will cause corrosion. Using stainless steel on the aluminum frame will corrode. For rivets use aluminum rivets, if you are able to screw them in you can get aluminum screws (that is what I used on my project).

Acaution on Kevins videos, in rebuilding his windows he drills out the rivets on the jalousie side opening mechanism, there is no need to drill these out and it is almost impossible to replace the rivet with one that works.
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:26 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Do you have a wood frame inside the fibreglass? I am not familiar with Boler trailers, but in a Trillium, the screws go through the window, and fibreglass, into a wood frame.
Hi David,

Good question.. I'm not sure. On the youtube video there was a wood frame on the inside behind the aluminum but likely I don't know until I take it apart.

Richard
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian G. View Post
Most Bolers do not have wood frames, especially if the windows were fastened with rivets.

One consideration is that any dissimilar metals touching will cause corrosion. Using stainless steel on the aluminum frame will corrode. For rivets use aluminum rivets, if you are able to screw them in you can get aluminum screws (that is what I used on my project).

Acaution on Kevins videos, in rebuilding his windows he drills out the rivets on the jalousie side opening mechanism, there is no need to drill these out and it is almost impossible to replace the rivet with one that works.
Hi Ian - ah, good point. Since my windows are riveted likely there is no wood. I'll find out soon enough!

Yes, I have aluminum rivets so likely will go with that. Good to note about the video as well - thank you!

Will watch the video you sent along.

As a side note - part of my project in addition to re-sealing windows to the FG is I will be painting the upper part of the egg. I noticed the "Boler" decal is riveted on. Any idea what size rivets to use when I put it back on so as not to poke through the ensolite on the inside?

I'm new to the world of riveting so am taking baby steps here.

Richard
PS: How do you like your 2014 Escape?
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:52 PM   #6
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Cool Dissimilar metals

Some metals are more active than others. Our sailboat had aluminum spars and stainless steel hardware. Aluminum is not strong enough on small parts like screws and Alum/SS is a relatively compatible combination. Actually, there are alloys of aluminum which are highly reactive with each other.

Hmm. From this table it seems that plain steel and aluminum are most compatible:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t.do?docId=267
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Old 07-04-2014, 10:45 PM   #7
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Does anyone know the size of the rivets on the jalousie windows? Having a hard time finding the answer on this one.. Need to know for reinstalling them

Richard


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Old 07-05-2014, 08:50 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBlue View Post
As a side note - part of my project in addition to re-sealing windows to the FG is I will be painting the upper part of the egg. I noticed the "Boler" decal is riveted on. Any idea what size rivets to use when I put it back on so as not to poke through the ensolite on the inside?

I'm new to the world of riveting so am taking baby steps here.

Richard
PS: How do you like your 2014 Escape?
The rivets for the Boler emblem are 1/8" diameter and have a 1/4" grip range.
We don't get the Escape 19 until November ... a long wait.
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Old 07-05-2014, 08:56 AM   #9
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Fantastic thank you!

Do you know the size also for the jalousie windows?



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Old 07-05-2014, 09:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBlue View Post
Fantastic thank you!

Do you know the size also for the jalousie windows?



Richard
Not exactly, I added wooded frames to the inside and used aluminum screws.
I would guess they would be either 1/8" or 3/16" diameter with about a 3/8" to 1/2" grip range. When you drill the first one out you will find a small square metal backing plate, use this to determine the rivet diameter.
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Old 07-05-2014, 09:19 AM   #11
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Okay interesting. I'll drill out the first and see what I find. In my mind the grip range is always a concern since (as with the emblem) I don't want to poke through the ensolite.

Do you know the size for the small windows as well as the belly band?

Interesting you added the wood frame and aluminum screws...did that work well? Did you use a #14 in size?


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Old 07-05-2014, 10:16 AM   #12
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Hi Richard

Since I have both a Boler and a Casita I have a large selection of rivets. I just find the correct rivet to use out of my selection, if I don't have the right size I add another package to my collection.

I think the belly band is also 1/8" diameter an 3/8" grip range.
I added wood frames around the windows strictly for cosmetic reasons, I have customized my Boler considerably and wanted to add some detail around the windows. I used #8x3/4" screws to secure the windows to the wooden frames.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBlue View Post
Do you know the size for the ...
Richard, you might find it easier to keep your eye out for a rivet kit. Sometimes the holes get oversized through wear and tear and you have to go I size up.
I picked up a kit from Brofasco that 12-14 different sizes in it, both diameter and length. If you want an idea of what a trailer typically uses have a look at the Scamp site. They sell a package of replacement rivets for the whole trailer.
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Old 07-06-2014, 09:42 PM   #14
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Upon closer examination I see (from the inside) that the backs of all the rivets have what appear to be washers on the back them (see pic). Is this a different type of rivet or are they simply washers for added structural support? If so, can they be re-used or do I need new washers when replacing rivets?

I'm guessing this is a two-person job with one on outside riveting and one on the inside holding washer?

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Old 09-03-2016, 08:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBlue View Post
Is this a different type of rivet or are they simply washers for added structural support? If so, can they be re-used or do I need new washers when replacing rivets?

I'm guessing this is a two-person job with one on outside riveting and one on the inside holding washer?
The washer takes the load of the expanding rivet, compressing what is between the washer and the head. On some materials the rivet will crack what is being riveted. (like fiberglass)

Yes a 2 person job in most spots - the other person only needs to hold it long enough for you to get a grip on it. You get a feel for it after a while.
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Old 09-03-2016, 08:34 PM   #16
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Using stainless steel screws on aluminum. While you might see some corrosion in the form of rust on the stainless steel screws and rust stains on the surface of the aluminum frame this is not caused by dissimilar metal issues. As was just stated by another forum member those two metals can be used together.

What actually is happening is many of the less expensive stainless steel screws purchased in bulk that are used by some of the RV manufacturing companies is of a pretty inferior quality of stainless steel that is prone to rust versus a high quality stainless steel screw. All stainless steel screws are not made of equal quality material.

When moisture gets trapped under the screw heads or is trapped in situations such as screws being under a vinyl screw cover trim strip then those screws begin to rust. When a Stainless screw is driven into wood the water on the wood can wick under the screw head travel down along the threads and then cause rust on the shank of the screw and weaken it. I have seen this situation on my Sunrader as well as on my Trails West Campster. It is a good idea to put some marine bedding compound onto those treads and just under the head of the screw to keep the moisture under control. This will help a lot to reduce corrosion on those lower quality stainless screws. How would I know how good a quality of stainless is used in a screw I buy in a bin at the hardware store? I don't know and I can't find out other than if I see them rusting up fairly soon.

But I can purchase a known to be better quality screw from a local screw supply company and will of course pay the premium price for them but I have to purchase them in bags of 100 and I don't have anywhere near 100 stainless screws of the same length on my Campster. So I will just get them from the hardware store and keep an eye on them and use bedding compound on them which also helps keep the stainless from bonding into the aluminum over the years.
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