Roof Mounted Shelf/Cabinet - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-31-2009, 05:39 PM   #29
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Another thought here If we didn't want to drill out thru the shell (but I like your method Peter where you screw back into the cabinet and cover the head of the screw) would it be possible to get a strong enough epoxy that you could glue strips to the inside of the roof and then fasten the cupboard unit to it? Imagine the weight you put in there would be quite a deciding factor..
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Old 01-31-2009, 06:02 PM   #30
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Peter: Thanks for the detail.

Laura: Aha! You solved one of the dilemmas I had when I was making a mock-up (to use for awhile to see how I like it) counter to fit in to one spot. I couldn't figure out a good way to hold up my patterning piece. Looks like you used one of those expanding closet/shower/curtain rods to wedge into place to hold up your patterning piece. Schmart!

Don: Epoxy and fiberglass tape (such as some biaxmat tape) would be the best and strongest way to hold anything into the camper, in my opinion. The downside is that it's harder to do unless you have the trailer gutted. I say that becuase one would have to peel back the ensolite, solvent-wash and sand the fiberglass shell, then affix the bracket (of whatever type one chose) (or the cabinet lip directly) with the epoxy resin and tabbing cloth, then put the ensolite back, then mount the cabinet. Slick and strong, but... a lot of messy work.

Unless you're talking about epoxying some cleats to the exposed ends/sides of the closet and kitchen cabinets. You wouldn't have the Ensolite to mess with then, but still the sanding and glassing (dusty).

Donna: Oooh, must dowload and view!

Raya
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Old 01-31-2009, 10:52 PM   #31
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Don N
Roy, what did you have to use for regulators on these lights. Would they work well enough to replace he original 12 volt lights in our Trillium?

I don't know yet Don, I'm bartering for the regulators. It is going to be either the 7812 that peter uses or the LM307? You can buy one for $6 and it takes 4 AA batteries to test it with. We used it in the kitchen tent for a season with a single set of batteries.
But if you already have the 12V fixtures why not just use LED's there to fit?

peterh
re:
No more box of Kleenex on the counter

Here are some hints then. They keep changing the sizes of kleenex boxes. Make the slot a little wider than you need. I hold it in place with a couple of L brackets an inch beyond the end of the box and some white elastic they use for sewing to wrap around the box.

Raya L.
I couldn't figure out a good way to hold up my patterning piece. Looks like you used one of those expanding closet/shower/curtain rods to wedge into place to hold up your patterning piece.

<span style="color:#000000">I used a couple of those expanding things meant to hold a load in the pick up truck bed. They expand in 4" increments while the rubber foot ends screw to adjust.

And Kurt,
There is no reason you couldn't prime and finish the wood with the same paint you have already used on your cabinets to match.
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:38 PM   #32
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And Kurt,
There is no reason you couldn't prime and finish the wood with the same paint you have already used on your cabinets to match.
Thought about it but I wanted it to match the rest and even when painted they always seem to look like wood
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Old 02-22-2009, 11:10 PM   #33
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Cabinet is almost done. Gave up on making it out of fiberglass though....I figured by the time I made the mold I would have built the cabinet.

I used 1/8" birch plywood for the face and bottom - Roy thanks for the plan - worked great, I did go slightly deeper though...about 18" deep (back wall to edge of window) and its about 10" tall (as most are). Was able to find like hinges and the same ositive thumb latches as the rest too. It is heavier than a F/G one would be but still pretty light.

Once complete I will sand, round the edge, prime and spray with acylic enamel (automotive finsh) to match the rest of the cabinets.

Now I just need to figure out the best way to mount it. I have some 90" aluminum rail that I may use and mount them on the inside of the cabinet with a few s/s pan head bolts through the shell but havn't decided yet.

That, or I may use some s/s screws into some 1" strips of wood mounted into the inside of the cabinet...

....still trying to figure out the best way to distribute the load.
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:54 AM   #34
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Roy thanks for the plan
....still trying to figure out the best way to distribute the load.
You are welcome Kurt.

We used 6 small angle brackets (bent to suit) screwed to wood blocks glued on the plywood and then 6 SS bolts through the body. I was amazed at how nicely it firmed up into a solid unit.
As for weight, Paul Neumeister picked up one of the wood ones I was buying at bolerama and stated they were definately lighter than the FG ones he made.
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Old 02-24-2009, 02:19 AM   #35
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Thanks for that info, Kurt. Could I ask what you used for corner reinforcement (for example where the bottom meets the front panel). I would love to see any work-in-progress photos you might have, as I'm hoping to tackle these this spring sometime.

For fastening, my first thought was to tab in some supports with fiberglass, but that's a bit of a mess unless the whole trailer is in project mode. So I'm thinking about using "Weld Mount" studs. They will hold quite a bit of weight, and are used in boat building, which is how I know of them. (They make wire-tie mounts also, for example.) They are held in place with a special acrylic glue, and I was thinking that perhaps I could slip the stud bases in behind a small slit in the ensolite (which would be covered up anyway.)

If you don't guinea pig them, I will probably do so later this spring or early summer

Not that there's anything wrong with a machine screw through the shell, but this may be another option. And I could see other uses for them in fastening things to the inside of the trailer shell.

Here is a link to the company's page showing the studs:

http://www.weldmountsystem.com/parts.htm#stainless

And their main page:

http://www.weldmountsystem.com/parts.htm

Here is one place to purchase them (this particular page showing the adhesive, for variety):

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userp...uct.do?pid=6437

Raya
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:26 AM   #36
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Here is what I did.

I used one strip that ran the length of the front for strength and to prevent flex and another down the center for the same. I made it so it primarily mounts along the walls to take the load off the roof. In the end there is 5 mounts along the side of the trailer using s/s screws. Fortunately 3 of the 5 are using the old holes for the curtains

Three more mounting points for the roof. One center and one on each side of the cabinet doors (not shown in the photos). The roof mounts are not too carry the load but more to provide some rigidity to the front panel as it has some flex with the thin wood.

I was going to use a 90 degree aluminum rail for the mounts but the damn walls are just to curved. This is more than enough for the towels and such I plan on keeping up there anyway.

The whole thing is surprisingly light. I will try and weigh it today. Just need to spray it and install the doors and hang it (its already mocked up).

- Kurt
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:48 PM   #37
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Looks good Kurt!

All the brace wood in mine was square about the narrow thickness of yours. Tying into the existing holes was a good idea. If you were to use a screw on either side where the cross beam meets the wall all you need is one screw top dead center to keep the front face in place. Slight compression against the ensolite not only hides minor discrepancies it keeps the wood from flopping on the edges.

I'd screw the front or rear wall in first. Jack up the face at the sides and screw from the outside and screw the top in last. Your braces are big enough that you can mark the location then drill pilot holes from the inside out.

I used some of those expansion thingies meant to hold loads secure in a pickup bed to jack up mine. Here is a link to a picture of mine bracing the roof in my door fix thread.
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:15 AM   #38
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Thanks so much for the photos, Kurt - they sure do help me to visualize how things come together, and remind me how light the stock can be. And for the additional installation tips, Roy. Great info!

Looks as though I may have to guinea pig the Weld Mounts for myself though

If they do seem suitable, once I've tried one or two, then I was thinking I'd fill the curtain rod holes and eliminate them - then hang the curtains from the undersides of the shelves as others have done. I'll see how it goes once I get started; the shapes of the cabinets would be the same either way.

I know I'll be coming back to this thread when I start in on the project; sure glad it is here

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Old 02-25-2009, 11:26 AM   #39
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Looks good!
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Old 02-25-2009, 11:56 PM   #40
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Thanks guys. Roy - I was thinking the same thing about the ensolite which is why I left those 2 other mouting points off for now. Once I have a chance I will mount it up to drill the holes. I test fitted it with using 2 coolers for now...once I get the holes drilled (once the rain stops!) I will take it down and spray it. I will post more pics as I go.

PS - weight wise its coming in at 11.5 pounds.
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:36 PM   #41
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Any pics of yours?
Finally got some pictures taken and posted today. One even shows the Kleenex for Peter.
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Old 10-14-2009, 08:41 PM   #42
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Just thought I'd "cross link" to a newer thread also discussing the upper cabinets.

There are several more detailed photos of Larry's Scamp cabinets (that are shown in this thread) in the new thread:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...mp;#entry336509
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