roof rack - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-17-2008, 06:42 PM   #15
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You could put a support on the front bumper of the Jeep, and that would reduce the stress on the center of the canoe. I've seen it done many times, and it looks rather cool as well.
Like this?

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or this?


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Old 10-17-2008, 07:16 PM   #16
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[quote]Like this?

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or this?

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Not sure if this applies to your set-up, but back in the days I belonged to a canoe club, I was warned not to attach a canoe to a rack on my truck cab and the other end to a rack on my truck's canopy. The reason is there is considerable flex, torquing and twisting between the cab and box.
I'd be inclined to go with the support on the front bumper and another on the cab roof, or have both supports on the truck box.

baglo
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Old 10-17-2008, 10:17 PM   #17
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I use a "T" bar mounted on a threaded pin in the hole made for a bumper hitch, and a nut welded into the base of the upright. It can carry one or two canoes when I add the extensions. I've used this arrangement on pickups since the eighties with no adverse effects. I guess that there is enough front to back give to compensate for box flex.

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Old 10-17-2008, 10:44 PM   #18
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I use a "T" bar mounted on a threaded pin in the hole made for a bumper hitch, and a nut welded into the base of the upright. It can carry one or two canoes when I add the extensions. I've used this arrangement on pickups since the eighties with no adverse effects. I guess that there is enough front to back give to compensate for box flex.

I think maybe it's because you're attached, close to the frame, front and back. But the top of a canopy on a truck bed can move a couple inches each way over rough terrain. I've had the canoe on the RAV racks with no problem. Haven't tried putting two pontoon boats up there yet.
Last time we piled pontoon boats on my buddy's Santa Fe we finally learned pump the tubes up or let out air to keep the ropes taunt instead of retying the ropes all the time.

And, I have to restrain myself when I see a canoe tied to a vehicle with a rope from the bow and the stern to the vehicle's bumpers, like this /-/. Slam on the brakes and there is nothing to stop the canoe from sliding forward. The rope at the stern allows about 6 feet of travel and so will the one at the front. Tie it down, like so, /-\. You can tie the rear rope to the centre thwart of the canoe. And, ask somebody to show you the "trucker's hitch" for the cross ropes. It is extremely secure and impossible to describe ( for me anyway ). I once used it and applied such force that I bent the rack extensions.
Don't do that.

baglo
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Old 10-19-2008, 05:12 PM   #19
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And, I have to restrain myself when I see a canoe tied to a vehicle with a rope from the bow and the stern to the vehicle's bumpers, like this /-/. Slam on the brakes and there is nothing to stop the canoe from sliding forward.
Don't do that.

baglo
Glenn,I know what you mean. In 50 years of canoeing I've seen just about everything. From the guy who just has a single rope front and rear to someone who throws a blanket on the roof, ties the canoe on with rope through the windows, to the guy going down the road with his hand out the window trying to hold his in place from the rental to the launch site.
When I fasten mine, my 1/4" bow rope doesn't hold the canoe forward or back but is just snubbed taught, to forstall any sideward motion due to wind or the forces exerted when passing, or meeting, a large transport. What you see at the back is an optical 'contusion'. The down ropes you see are actually the ratchet straps used to brace the verticle bar to the frame of the truck. The rear of the canoe is held on by another ratchet strap, over the canoe, around the rear seat thwart and around the cross bar. NOTHING moves at that point. The front strap is forward of the centre point of the canoe so that the canoe cannot actually move forward or back. I have been using ratchet straps, for several years now, instead of roping the canoe in place and it has meant I do not have any slack due to rope stretch AND they are easier and quicker to use. I use longerblue ones to strap down the cross bar and shorter red ones to strap down the canoe. Also the web straps are replaced about every two years I have built several of these strippers and have too much invested in them NOT to take as much care as possible.
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Old 10-19-2008, 07:30 PM   #20
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Also the web straps are replaced about every two years I have built several of these strippers and have too much invested in them NOT to take as much care as possible.
Jim
I must have bought the wrong web straps since I've found them more trouble than tieing off with the trucker's hitch. I'm also a little nervous that if the hook doesn't hold for some reason, there is nothing holding the object down. This is a problem with pontoon boats, that you wouldn't have with a canoe. Driving from the cool lower mainland up over the Coquihalla summit, the change in altitude and temperature has a tremendous effect on the tubes and you have to keep deflating them. Coming home, you have to stop several times and re-tie or add pressure.

I'd love to have a stipper, a little solo boat, but I'm gonna have to be satisfied with my 16' Prospector ( Clipper ).

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Old 10-19-2008, 08:07 PM   #21
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I used to carry a 17' Grumman canoe, 78lbs, on the roof of my Studebaker Lark. I used two roof racks with wooden cross beams which hooked on the rain gutters. I replaced two bumper bolts each in the front and rear with eyebolts. Then using snap hooks, I ran rope with tension springs on one end through the eyes in the ends of the canoe and snapped them to the eyebolts. The canoe was connected to the racks by the straps that came with the racks.

Of course today many of these things don't exist on cars anymore, but just another thought as to a possible solution. This was in the days before shock cord, when cars had steel bumpers bolted onto bumper mounts and stll had rain gutters.

(This post probably reveals my age,)
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Old 10-19-2008, 08:26 PM   #22
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I used to carry a 17' Grumman canoe, 78lbs, on the roof of my Studebaker Lark. I used two roof racks with wooden cross beams which hooked on the rain gutters.
Yup, but a canoe is rigid. I'm trying to fasten two pontoon boats, stacked and the pontoons expand and contract with altitude and temperature. The only solution I've found so far is stopping often to resecure the boats.
I guess I could get one of those rack trays and simply deflate the boats and re-inflate at the destination.

baglo
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Old 10-20-2008, 03:27 PM   #23
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What I do with my kayak on pickup canopy racks is use THREE fore-and-aft lines, one short from rear of kayak to rear of rack (stops is from moving back), one short from front of kayak to front of rack (stops forward movement) and one longer from front of kayak to front bumper (stops wind lift).

The first two lines have snaps on the ends and stay on the rack.

Then I use two side nylon straps (heavy duty trucker stuf, salvaged from roadside and riveted with bolts on rack and snaps on other ends -- These go across the boat loosely enough to allow expansion of the poly boat (stops side slide).

I put swim noodles over the rack for padding -- Cheap and lots better than pipe insulation (lasts longer and leaves no marks).
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Old 10-28-2008, 07:03 PM   #24
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I can't put my canoe on top of my conversion van because of the fiberglass top that's peaked and slopes down. So I put my canoe on top of my 16' Scamp, and I use the foam things that fit on the canoe's gunwales, which sit on the Scamp. I tried to find a picture of the canoe on my Scamp but couldn't dig one up, so here is one of my old Bigfoot mounted the same way. I have never had a problem carrying my canoe on top of the camper. But I do bring in the van a small 4ft step ladder.
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Old 10-29-2008, 04:16 PM   #25
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If you ever think the pads might be prone to slipping, glue some of that non-skid shelf stuf (Wally has it, sometimes in RV section) to the bottom -- Problem is you will have a hard time sliding it to get it off....
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Old 10-29-2008, 06:11 PM   #26
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Pete, I've never had a problem with the pads or canoe moving. And I think I would prefer to be able to move the pads, to make little adjustments here and there. Once you crank down the ratchet straps front and back, that thing is there until you take it off. By the way you can't see it in the picture but there is an AC unit under that canoe, it fit just fine and never touched the AC. Tim
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Old 03-15-2009, 07:42 PM   #27
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Has any body put a roof rack on their trailer? What I want to do is carry my small 10' boat on top of my trillium. Gene
I picked up a roof rack from a jeep wagoneer at at scrap yard for 40 bucks
It screws along its length, so the load should be distributed.
I will probably trim the crossbars so that it sits on the center hump, further strengthening it.

I will either put metal straps along the inside, or large washers. Either way, It will be aesthetic on the inside and outside.

I will probably get an aluminum RV ladder to climb up.
I will probably fabricate an aluminum diamond plate walkway to walk across the roof, without collapsing the roof.

I want to carry 2 kayaks up there.
Also, I picked up a thule karrite cargo container at Canadian tire, so it may ride up there too, alternatively.
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