Rotten floor

[Cat futrell]

OK question #1 was a stupid question too. I realize that I must take out all of the fixtures inside to put in a new floor.

Sorry for that, sometimes I just get ahead of myself. So let me replace that question with another.

Opinions please, if I gut the shell, replace the floor, fix the frame and reattach the shell but don't reinstall the cabinets, will it be structurally sound enough to take on the road. Or are the interior components necessary to support the shell. I think I know the sad answer to this question but figured it was worth asking, in case I am wrong AGAIN!

[Robert Johans]

From the sound of your notes, Cathy, it seems to me that your best (but not cheapest) option is a frame-off restoration.

I can't see any good way to resolve your floor problems without getting the frame out from under. Plus, it sounds like your frame (and axle?) need some attention anyway.

Once separated from your shell, repairing/restoring your frame should be relatively easy. And your first priority. I would take it to any decent welder for professional inspection and repairs. They should also be able to install a new axle, et al, as needed.

As to the floor repair/replacement, if you can't do it yourself, find a trailer shop, or boat builder, fiberglass repair specialist, or even some local finish carpenter, and talk it through. None of these repairs are particularly complicated, but should be done conscientiously to avoid future problems.

Finally, once the floor problems are resolved, and the shell is reattached to your repaired/upgraded frame, you should be able to camp! No need to re-install the furniture components. (While it is true that the vertical cabinets, etc, help support the roof, I doubt a heavy snow-load is a problem at the moment.)

[Cat futrell]

Robert,

Hurray, that is encouraging news. thanks

[Cat futrell]

Robert,

Thanks so very much for your answers. I have had the trailer inspected and it is safe. Have a friend who is going to block and rotate the axle. Must have the clearance.

The cost of a total frame off right now is not doable. Planning to do within the next year or so. We are replacing the whole rotten floor in the rear area of the cabin. May have to replace that floor again when we do the frame off but need to get camping this year.


removed the old foor, made pattern for new one, cut fiberglass lip from bottom of inside shell, but

before we start the "fun" part of fenageling that new floor into place we need to seal it. What product do you recommend? We found an inexpensive resin - but the catalyst is premeasured and not resealable. It is sold by the quart. Have no idea how much it will take to get coverage on the 4' by 8' piece of flooring but am pretty sure if any premixed remains in can it will have kicked by the time the floor is ready for a second coat.

Fiberglass is foreign to me - but don't want to invest in high grade products since it will only be a temporary fix. Do you have any suggestions?

Cathy

[Cat futrell]

Didn't mean that post exclusively for Robert, any input is appreciated.

Cathy

[Donna D.]

Cathy, did you see this post: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post327016 maybe you can get Ryan's input for your floor project and see if the stuff he used would be appropriate for your application.

[Robert Johans]

If by temporary you mean only to get through the next few months, and you intend on replacing your "patch" when you do your frame-off anyway, heck, I wouldn't worry much about coating your plywood. (But if you would feel better about it, you could roll on a couple coats of polyurethane or spray the bottom side with auto undercoat...)

I think a bigger concern is how you "mate" your patch to your Fiberglas walls and your existing floor "temporarily."

The walls depend on a secure connection to the floor, but I doubt you'll want to glass it together only to tear it all apart again in the coming months. Perhaps several judiciously placed brackets of some kind can hold it all together until you're ready to rebuild.

Of course, you would not be protected from water infiltrating from below, but if you can keep out of puddles -- small and large -- happy camping!

[Cat futrell]

Robert, I think We will use a polyurithane to coat the plywood, however We did plan to glass that floor in. Will the fiberglass resin adhere tho the plywood if it is painted with polyurithane?

[Richard Hayes]

Remember that any bond is only as strong as it's weakest link. In bonding fiberglass to plywood, a layer of paint would serve no real purpose. Paint is applied to seal wood - I'd rather have the resin penetrate the wood surface as much as possible. It's important to make sure that all surfaces are thoroughly clean; the most common cause of bonding failure is poor surface preparation.

[Robert Johans]

I concur with Richard's thoughts...

If you are glassing the floor in, I would coat both sides and edges of your plywood with resin first. Your concerns about the set-up/cook time of the resin notwithstanding, applying your glass/resin combo after your plywood Is treated will still work just fine. The fresh, wet resin will chemically bond with the dry without a problem. This, however, would not be true with any other coating rather than resin.

I forgot to mention... it's a good idea to rough up the cured resin area on your plywood floor around the walls before trying to glue the walls to the floor.