Rotten floor - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-04-2012, 09:22 AM   #1
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Rotten floor

Taking all of the loose parts out today, bench tops, bed support etc. found about 12" of rotten floor. Really soft. I'm going to need to take out the fiberglass benches on either side. Don't see any rivets or screws on the outside. Is ther anything specific that I should know before I start? Also, what is the best short term solution for unsealed rivet holes. Hat to get the fiberglass out yet. No garage to keep all dry. Covering with a tarp for the time being.

Cathy
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:30 AM   #2
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Here is a picture of the floor
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:35 AM   #3
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sorry, here is the pic of the rotten floor.
Attached Thumbnails
DSCN9310.jpg   DSCN9311.jpg  

DSCN9312.jpg  
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:42 AM   #4
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Cathy, I can't tell. Is the floor rot where you'll walk or apply weight of any kind? If NOT, you may want to read thoroughly this thread... sounds like GitRot MAY work for you: Floor rot

Git Rot may be available at Home Depot or Lowes. I know it's available at West Marine: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...0092&langId=-1

Let us know how it goes.
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:50 AM   #5
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Cathy, I can't tell. Is the floor rot where you'll walk or apply weight of any kind? If NOT, you may want to read thoroughly this thread... sounds like GitRot MAY work for you: Floor rot

Let us know how it goes.
Donna, it is not where you walk, it is at the across the entire tail end of the trailer where I suspected that rear window leak. It's pretty soft completely through on the passenger side, and still damp. Im going to let it dry befor I make a final decision but I think it is going to be too soft for the GitRot. Will be using GitRot at the door way though. What about the holes in the shell after I take the dinette benches out. temp solution to close them? not ready to get the bondo out yet.
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:54 AM   #6
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Also, Do you know if anybody has used the Git-rot with a form. If so, I could put a backer form under the hole and fill it along with the soft floor?
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:50 PM   #7
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Temp hole filling -- shove in a wee bit of butyl tape
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:53 PM   #8
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it is at the across the entire tail end of the trailer where I suspected that rear window leak. ...

What about the holes in the shell after I take the dinette benches out. temp solution to close them? not ready to get the bondo out yet.
The leak could be elsewhere and the trailer was stored nose up, water runs and collects down hill.

You should not have holes in the shell after you take the benches out. But I think you can see that now. That is I see you have taken the benches out.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:12 PM   #9
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I thought I just posted this but if I did I can;t find it. In evaluation the rot in the floor I have come to two more questions. 1. Is the strip of plywood that acts as a bench support on the inside of the belly fiber-glassed on. It seems to be but I am hoping for a simpler fix than trying to reproduce the original.

Also, I think I should try to lift, slightly, the rear end of the shell but not from the bottom. can it be raised by the belly band? how? Just need to lift an inch or two to enable new floor to slide under the edge of the interior shell.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:13 PM   #10
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I added more pics to this new address..

https://picasaweb.google.com/1033241.../RottenRearEnd
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Old 08-05-2012, 05:54 PM   #11
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1. Is the strip of plywood that acts as a bench support on the inside of the belly fiber-glassed on. It seems to be but I am hoping for a simpler fix than trying to reproduce the original.

Also, I think I should try to lift, slightly, the rear end of the shell but not from the bottom. can it be raised by the belly band? how? Just need to lift an inch or two to enable new floor to slide under the edge of the interior shell.
If your plywood is not too bad you might be able to get away with gluing and clamping the layers back together. I was able to do that with mine.



I've seen pictures of people using plywood jigs to hold the body up by the belly band. Search for some of the threads where they take the body off to get ideas of how different people have done it.
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:09 PM   #12
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great picture, thanks. do the campers come apart at the belly band? I mean are the two sides actually attached at that point or does it function more as support. If I take off the black rubberized channel will I expose a potential leak source? I am still trying to get my head around how these things are put together. I realize that it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Roy, did you replace any floor in your project?
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:37 PM   #13
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great pic Roy, helps me understand. Is that your Boler in the photo.
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:44 PM   #14
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First let me say I have only seen one love bug and I can only speak from my experience with Scamps. When a rear floor is rotted all the way around the edges of the dinette floor the complete rear dinette deck needs to be replaced. The floor is what supports your shell in a Scamp.
First thing to do as you asked is to support the rear of the shell. On a Scamp I stand a 2X4 on each frame rail where the rail meets the rear bumper and lean it against the belly band (On the outside of the trailer). Make a mark on each 2X4 on the at the bottom of the belly band. Then look at the spacing between each frame rail and the shell. On a Scamp there should be about 1/4" space. If the shell is touching the frame add 1/4 inch to the mark on your 2x4 and cut the 2x4's. To raise the shell I put a block on the rear bumper and try to carefully pry up under the spare tire with another 2X4. If you stand your cut 2X4's on your rear bumper and lean them against your belly band and you raise the shell to the proper height the blocks should drop in between frame rails and belly band.
If the 2X4 blocks don't fall into place raise the shell as much as you can, remark and recut the 2X4 blocks. At least your shell won't wont sag any further. Now you can start to remove the rear floor section.
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