Running Fridge on Propane. - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:57 AM   #1
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When running the Boler fridge on propane we always put the bubble leveler in the freezer compartment and level the trailer accordingly.However in order to get the bubble centered in this leveler the other levels on the sides of the trailer go out of wack. It always look as if the fridge side of the trailer is higher that the other side.Why are the levels different?When not using propane for the fridge we level using the side levels and the trailer looks level.

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Old 06-25-2009, 11:00 AM   #2
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When running the Boler fridge on propane we always put the bubble leveler in the freezer compartment and level the trailer accordingly.However in order to get the bubble centered in this leveler the other levels on the sides of the trailer go out of wack. It always look as if the fridge side of the trailer is higher that the other side.Why are the levels different?When not using propane for the fridge we level using the side levels and the trailer looks level.

Sound like you need to relevel the frig to be level with the Trailer..
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:32 AM   #3
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As I work on these small trailers, I have discovered that nothing is plumb (or square) in them....... It's worse than a house......... So, "level" is a compromise. It comes down to what do you want level when you set up. Since I don't have a fridge in either one, we level the stovetop to what we can live with and hope the bed doesn't go the wrong way. Life is full of compromises. The probable solution in your case is to level the trailer (ignoring the fridge) to your liking, then level the fridge to the trailer.... Should work. Larry
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:37 AM   #4
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However in order to get the bubble centered in this leveler the other levels on the sides of the trailer go out of wack. It always look as if the fridge side of the trailer is higher that the other side.[b]Why are the levels different?When not using propane for the fridge we level using the side levels and the trailer looks level.
Apparently, the refrigerator is not installed level to the trailer in the kitchen cabinet.

You could;
Level the TRAILER
unfasten the fridge,
shim the fridge up to level within the level cabinet,
and refasten it to the cabinet.

This allows you to trust the level bubbles on the side of the trailer.
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:17 PM   #5
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When running the Boler fridge on propane....
I thought the fridge needed to be level no matter what the power source since it's the bubbling of the heated ammonia thru the system that makes it work. It shouldn't matter whether it was heated by propane or electricity.

Have I been mis-informed on this?
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:23 PM   #6
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I thought the fridge needed to be level no matter what the power source since it's the bubbling of the heated ammonia thru the system that makes it work. It shouldn't matter whether it was heated by propane or electricity.

Have I been mis-informed on this?
I hope someone can reply to this as I thought that it was only necessary to have the fridge completly level when running it on propane.It certainly makes sense that it should be level no matter what power source is used.
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:43 PM   #7
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Pat,

My response is a very broad general explanation

It matters not the mode of boiling the refrigerant mixture in an absorption refrigerator...they must be level with reference to the evaporator (the inside part you see when you go inside for food) the newer refrigerators [b]ARE more forgiving than the old designs of lets say 5 years ago, some brands like Norcold build their products to even operate on some slight angles I could not go to sleep on...But as a rule level it...regardless of gas or electric modes of operation 12v or 120v.

The problem is on a angle to far off from the design requirements the mixture inside separates and the chemical component that buffers the destructive properties of ammonia turn solid being distilled out by an out of level evaporator...This increases the corrosive problems this type of refrigerator try's to manage and creates solids that really mess with it.


Happy Camping, Safe Trails.
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I hope someone can reply to this as I thought that it was only necessary to have the fridge completly level when running it on propane.It certainly makes sense that it should be level no matter what power source is used.
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:55 PM   #8
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Well I was always told if the camper is level enough for you to be comfortable then the frig is probably level enough. Of course the mileage may vary on that one if a <strike> moron </strike> level impaired individual installed the frig.
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:56 PM   #9
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It doesn't matter what the source is, all they all do is make heat.

So YES the evaporator coil has to be level so the ammonia will flow.

I am going to level my coil then install my outside levels. ( new trailer )

Bill K

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I hope someone can reply to this as I thought that it was only necessary to have the fridge completly level when running it on propane.It certainly makes sense that it should be level no matter what power source is used.
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Old 06-26-2009, 04:54 PM   #10
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Thank you to all that replied to my question.I guess until I can get the fridge itself level we will have to live with a trailer on a slight tilt.
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Old 06-26-2009, 04:59 PM   #11
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Apparently, the refrigerator is not installed level to the trailer in the kitchen cabinet.

You could;
Level the TRAILER
unfasten the fridge,
shim the fridge up to level within the level cabinet,
and refasten it to the cabinet.

This allows you to trust the level bubbles on the side of the trailer.
I will look to see how the fridge is attached to the cabinet.This is the best solution to the problem,as long as its something I can do.I am really not to handy at these things.Till then the trailer will have to remain on a slight tilt,but at least the fridge will be level.Thanks Frederick
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Old 06-26-2009, 06:34 PM   #12
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Till then the trailer will have to remain on a slight tilt,but at least the fridge will be level.Thanks Frederick
I think your refrigerator will appreciate that too! My 1988 Scamp has the original 3-way. I find it works MUCH better (cools down faster) when IT'S level. More than once has made sleeping a bit of a challenge (head down hill), but I can move or flip end to end to satisfy that.

Best of luck whatever your solution too
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:55 PM   #13
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First of all the levels used on RV's are the cheapest levels out there and no two are going to read accurately, second the folks that mount them don't always drill the holes so they are level to begin with, thirdly neither the trailer or the fridge need to be precision leveled and I use for an example the fact that when traveling from one spot to the other campers for years & years have had their fridges on propane whether they're climbing mountains or decending same. Use your outside bubble and don't worry about your fridge being slightly out or level your fridge and don't worry about your trailer being a bit out. There isn't anything precision about camping, enjoy yourself. That question came up in a rally at one time to the Dometec guy and he said these things are designed to run up to 7 degrees off level, exaggerration ??? probably but also probably closer to the 7 than 1/2 degree
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Old 06-27-2009, 08:05 AM   #14
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level the trailer gauging by a level placed IN the fridge. Move the level around in the fridge facing in various directions. Keep leveling trailer till you got fridge level where you want.

Now install convineint outside on the skin camper levels (front and/or back center, one above each weel) and mark them to show where the bubble sits with your fridge leveled.

From that point forward when your setting up if you match to your marks on those levels you mounted outside your pretty much on the money according to the need of the fridge inside the trailer.
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Old 06-27-2009, 10:04 AM   #15
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level the trailer gauging by a level placed IN the fridge. Move the level around in the fridge facing in various directions. Keep leveling trailer till you got fridge level where you want.

Now install convineint outside on the skin camper levels (front and/or back center, one above each weel) and mark them to show where the bubble sits with your fridge leveled.

From that point forward when your setting up if you match to your marks on those levels you mounted outside your pretty much on the money according to the need of the fridge inside the trailer.
That sounds like a great soloution to make leveling to accomadate the fridge much eaiser.I always have trouble seeing inside that dark little fridge compartment even using a flashlight.Thanks.
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Old 07-10-2009, 04:18 PM   #16
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Hi,
We did the same thing with our fridge, leveled the fridge inside, and then added stick-on levels to the outside front and one side, set so that the fridge level was considered to be trailer level. That way, we could set up the trailer so that the fridge was level without having to open the fridge door and take out the food. This works great, and the trailer itself is only barely off level. Since the kitchen counter is also slightly off level compared to the trailer floor, the variation really doesn't matter much. Our original 1974 fridge still runs great on both propane and electricity, and small variations in level at different campsites have not affected it's effectiveness. I was surprised when we bought the trailer last year how well it worked.

As an aside, we have had two little trips this summer in the trailer so far, and the new axle (from Paul Neumeister) and the door-curve fix have both worked great. Our friends recently noticed a 1980 17foot Boler for sale in a field in northen Alberta, and bought it for $2800. It has everything working and needed only a (relatively) mild cleaning, so I am insanely jealous at the extra space. We still like our little guy and it will be nice to have company on our trips.

Rick G in Edmonton
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