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03-09-2003, 11:08 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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Running Lamps/Stoves from LP Bottle
I apologize if this has been covered in a previous thread but I couldn't find a thread that I felt covered it thoroughly.
I admit I'm slowly going over to the the dark side. Camping in the past meant Coleman white gas stoves and lanterns. The "squeak squeak" of pumping up the fuel tank and the occasionally spectacular pyrotechnics of lighting it up. Like the rum commercial: It's not lit unless you can see the fire from orbit.
I bought a small auxiliary refillable tank for the grill and lantern. It looked so cute! I have a replacement generator that allows you to use a disposable propane bottle on the Coleman stove. I have a propane lantern. I also have one of those hoses. One end of the hose fits on the refillable bottle valve and the other end fits on my stove/lantern where the disposable bottle screws in. Also planned is one of those 30" extension rods with a couple of taps.
Here's my question. As long as the hose screws into a device that has a valve (High, Low, Medium, like a stove, lantern, BBQ grill etc) do I need any other device to screw onto the refillable bottle between the hose and the bottle's valve?
I know the trailer equipment (stove, reefer, water heater) goes through a regulator to reduce pressure, but what about these other, outside the trailer devices?
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03-10-2003, 10:15 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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Regulators
Additional regulators are not required, if the threads fit it was designed to operate at the pressure provided directly from the tank. Most of those type appliances are equipped with a needle valve to control the gas flow, appliances that operate after a regulator have much larger valves and will not control the high pressure gas properly or safely. By the way pressure in these tanks is a function of temperature and to a lesser extent how full it is, so a large 20 lb full tank has about the same pressure as a 1lb at a given temp.
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03-11-2003, 07:04 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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Agree with John. As long as the fitting is correct (and tight), you don't need a regulator when you use the extension hose to use a larger propane cylinder instead of a 1-lb bottle.
I have a similar extension hose ... the only problem is you "waste" the gas in the hose when you disconnect everything at the end of a campout ... (unless you plan ahead and let the device (stove, lamp, etc) burn the gas for cooking or light before disconnecting everything.
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03-13-2003, 08:18 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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John and Charles,
Thanks for the help, it's good to have the advice. Although I don't mind buying a gadget or two, I wasn't looking forward to stumbling through a bunch of unneeded hoses and fittings. Evidence to the contrary, I don't feel obligated to make EVERY mistake in the book.
For some reason, I hate returning things and I could populate several flea markets with stuff that looked good at the time!
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03-13-2003, 08:27 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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Steve ... if all else fails, you can play dead!
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03-13-2003, 08:28 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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It's a guy thing!
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03-13-2003, 05:14 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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mr heater connection
Guys-
I am considering getting the 12 ft mr heater accessory hose for the bulk tank (I think Don in OKC did one) and was wondering what I'll need to make the connection to my trailer tank. Do I need to go straight to the tank(hi pressure?) or can I plumb off the interior like a cat heater (low pressure?)?
TIA, Phil
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03-14-2003, 06:45 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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Phil .. my "guess" is that you'd plumb into the high pressure side before the regulator, because like other 1-lb propane bottle appliances, the Mr. Heater would run off a direct connection to the bulk bottle.
Have you read the Mr. Heater manual? Or better yet, give the company a call if you see an 800 number.
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03-14-2003, 07:53 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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Quote:
Orginally posted by phil moldovan
Guys-
I am considering getting the 12 ft mr heater accessory hose for the bulk tank (I think Don in OKC did one) and was wondering what I'll need to make the connection to my trailer tank. Do I need to go straight to the tank(hi pressure?) or can I plumb off the interior like a cat heater (low pressure?)?
TIA, Phil
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Don did a fantastic piture of this very thing. it's here somewhere.
Oh, found it
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/read.php?TID=1071
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03-14-2003, 03:36 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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propane fittings
I have a dual tank setup on my trailer, and didn't want to carry yet another tank for outside bar-b-q and stove. I bought a propane y which hooks to the tank and has two outlets. I removed one of these and added a t fitting which has two disposable bottle fittings on it and then re-connected the other side of the y(first adapter) to the trailer hose. When I set up my outside kitchen, I just hook up to the disposable fittings with extension hoses and Bob's your uncle !.
Remember --always use a thread sealant on fittings. and it's a good idea to do a leak test before using propane on every trip. O-rings and fittings have a habit of leaking/cracking and coming loose.
when I get time I'll put up the part numbers of the fittings
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03-14-2003, 04:53 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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plumbing a Mr. Heater
By the way, Phil:
The 'quick disconnect' with an 'L' makes a good way to have a swiveling connection at the heater. I thought I was doing it for safety, but didn't realize that if you're going to move the heater around any, the swivel (more importantly) keeps the hose from curling and binding. :)
Yeah, 'hi side'.
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03-14-2003, 07:39 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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propane 'T' and thread sealant
Don't think that we in the States have to use thread sealant on tanks anymore -- the new standard for gas tank connectors makes it unnecessary.
Have found an 'Add-A-Tee" to permit two appliances to be operated from the same fuel source. It's made by Marshall Brass, with a non-campingworld RV parts catalog # of 66-8807..many RV parts places use a single distributors catalog. This RV dealer is Long View RV in Northampton, Mass and Windsor, CT. (They've also got one in upstate NY and in FL but don't know where they are). In any case, they do mail order and their phone number is 800-967-7856. Ask for "Judy Parts" and tell her that Nathan and Daisy sent you. We don't get a comission, but she's one knowledgeable lady!
An advantage to this one might be that you can connect anything you like - a grill, a lamp, whatever.
Nathan and Daisy
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03-19-2003, 09:28 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e7889e33ac58paulin.jpg/>
These fittings come from Paulin. I used the 4193 and removed one female fitting, removed the propane barb from the coleman below, added a nipple and put the two back together.
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e788b00922b45114-760_x150.jpg/>
Coleman Model No. 5114-760
I ended up with a fitting similar to the 4194 but with two portable appliance outlets, one for a bar-b-q and one for a stove.
I always use a sealant on threads,wether or not I need to - you know an ounce of prevention--- yada yada yada
I work in heavy industry and often see fittings that were not leaking the day before spring a leak because of vibration or getting bumped.
so better safe than--- yada yada yada
That's all for now
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03-19-2003, 11:16 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
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Always use thread sealer on tapered thread fittings. Never use thread sealer on flare fittings. Flare fittings rely on metal to metal contact of the two surfaces, and pipe dope can hinder that. If the flare fitting is pitted or scratched and won't seal well dry, replace it.
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