Rust, Rust Everywhere! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-01-2009, 11:43 AM   #1
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Good morning.Our 1972 boler has developed rust on every interior metal piece.Hinges are all to be replaced.But,our Coleman 2 burner has rust on the underside of the top,and the pan under the burners is totally rusted.I have a fella that lives nearby who does sandblasting in his spare time,but,wondered if someone has a less violent way of easing the rust off.My plan is to(quoting a song title here)paint it black.On the pan,and the top as well.Much better than the avacado colour as it sits.Who came up with those bloody awful shades,anyhow?Harvest Gold.Avacado.And top it all off with shag carpeting.Really-what WERE people thinking back then...?
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Old 09-02-2009, 01:52 PM   #2
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Our 1972 boler has developed rust on every interior metal piece.
Rick,

My concern would be what caused the rust. Our '79 FiberStream had what I considered a ton of rust inside - all the screw heads were rusting, etc. I though that it must be age or climate... Turned out there was a slow leak in the water heater that kept the humidity up (also rotted out part of the floor).

If all is tight and dry in your egg you have lots of options for the appliance refurb. Bead blasting and powder coating are good. There are threads discussing the merits of painting. Some have had success, some not. The important thing is to use a high temperature resistant paint.

Use the browser to find the threads on painting. There is some good info in them.

Have fun with the renovation.
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:57 PM   #3
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Well,thought it through,and am going with..a new stove!With replacement of that,and the hinges,worries are over.course,we haven't had enough rain to fill a teacup lately,so,don't know if there are other water problems.could be rivets,windows left open,need a season to sort it out.
Thanks for the comments,though...
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:31 PM   #4
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Powder coating is good stuff and they can prep the metal as part of the deal.
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:34 PM   #5
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Although you can't (shouldn't) powder coat stoves, right? I thought it wouldn't stand up to high heat
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:54 AM   #6
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Although you can't (shouldn't) powder coat stoves, right? I thought it wouldn't stand up to high heat
Depends on the powder. Powder coating is a different way of applying paint. Like regular paint there are is a range of finishes with different temperature, hardness, finish, etc. There are some powders that can stand 800 degrees F.

Check this page: http://my.execpc.com/~davewrit/Powder.html

The important thing is to tell the powder-coater what you want to do with the finished piece - BBQ, stove top, decorative trim, etc. They will choose the right powder/paint.
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Old 09-03-2009, 11:11 AM   #7
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Good to know, thanks!
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:07 PM   #8
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Well,thought it through,and am going with..a new stove!With replacement of that,and the hinges,worries are over.course,we haven't had enough rain to fill a teacup lately,so,don't know if there are other water problems.could be rivets,windows left open,need a season to sort it out.
Thanks for the comments,though...

Just read your post and well I have the same problem with my boler. I have tried polishing out the rust on the stove and oven door and nothing is working the pits are still there.

High humidity was definitely the problem, there was a leak from the vent above, soaked the carpet the previous owners didn't know or care. Anyway when it warmed up the humidity stayed in as all the windows were closed. How ironic to think now that when we looked at it and opened the door I had commented on how humid it felt. We just thought it was because it hadn't been opened up in a long time.

Well anyway we are dealing with a stove and oven door and range hood that it got a lot of rust spots on it. And well we are considering new, where would a person begin to find a new stove????
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:18 PM   #9
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Good evening.
Got rid of the Wagonmaster furnace-didn't want the hassle.Going with a simple Seabreeze that maxes to 100 watts and over 5000 BTU at max.Just plug it in(I'm not looking at anything other than shore power).As for the coleman..the rust was holding it together.as mentioned by BOB in TO,those little rivets are conduits from the outside,letting in dribbles,that,over time,will destroy your metal stuff.Even the cupboard hinges have to go!
I'm going with an ATWOOD 2 burner sotve,with cover.My local dealer,a friend,was giving me his best deal at about 290 bucks for the combo.I found PPL in Texas,and got the same for 190 bucks!I have an American address,so shipping was minimal,and,because it was going out of Texas,no tax!!It pays to have American relatives!
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Old 09-20-2009, 10:12 PM   #10
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Good evening.
Got rid of the Wagonmaster furnace-didn't want the hassle.Going with a simple Seabreeze that maxes to 100 watts and over 5000 BTU at max.Just plug it in(I'm not looking at anything other than shore power).As for the coleman..the rust was holding it together.as mentioned by BOB in TO,those little rivets are conduits from the outside,letting in dribbles,that,over time,will destroy your metal stuff.Even the cupboard hinges have to go!
I'm going with an ATWOOD 2 burner sotve,with cover.My local dealer,a friend,was giving me his best deal at about 290 bucks for the combo.I found PPL in Texas,and got the same for 190 bucks!I have an American address,so shipping was minimal,and,because it was going out of Texas,no tax!!It pays to have American relatives!
Bolers seem to sweat badly on the inside. leading to all that rust. I am checking into an idea they use in the marine industry. I seen a boat that had a pail on the floor with a little bag suspended buy a stick that "as i was told" pulls all the moisture from the air within the cabin. What im trying to find out is, what was inside that little bag. Something that draws moisture into the pail.
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Old 09-20-2009, 10:37 PM   #11
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Bolers seem to sweat badly on the inside. leading to all that rust.
I'm wondering if that may be due to either leaks (moisture) or simply a lack of ventilation when not in use. My Boler had always had the small jalousie windows "cracked" open in storage (it was on the former [18 years] owners' "to do before putting trailer away" list). Even though the climate certainly has plenty of back and forth swings in Winnipeg, my trailer was dry and fresh when I bought it, and nothing inside is rusted. I looked at another Boler that was the same.

I did also see one that had lots of rusted things inside, but it clearly had leaks.

I think ventilation in storage is important. Boats commonly have vents that can be left open "rain or shine," otherwise they can quickly become mold pits. There are also solar powered fan vents (see Nicro Vent) that people install.

I'm not sure what chemical is in those anti-moisture crystals. I think I used to know but forgot (sorry). I tend to try to keep ventilation going.

Just my .02

Raya
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