Rusty Fridge Shelf Fix - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-17-2014, 07:19 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Captleemo View Post
Have you ever heard of cold galvanizing? It's galvanize in a spray can and it works great. Rustoleum makes a version of this and there is another brand called ZRC. After cleaning the rust off whatever metal you want to refurbish spray it with the cold galvanize to prevent further rust and to use as a primer and then spray it with your favorite spray paint. There are metalic spray paints called " Hammered " that look pretty nice and will give your project a very proffesional looking apearance.
I have used cases of this stuff over the years, back when I built electrical substations. We used it on galvanized structures whenever we drilled or cut the metal to stop the bare metal from rusting. I just wonder/worry that these paints will be tough enough for the rigours of cans, bottles and the such sliding on them a lot.
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
Take the shelves out and fill the fridge with case of beer. Problem solved.
After the money I am going to have to spend on this trailer, my daughter can buy her own damn beer, but I like the way you are thinking here.

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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
There's a great liquid rust removing product that I've purchased at Harbor Freight. Evapo-Rust: 1 Quart Evapo-Rustâ„¢ Rust Remover

Maybe use this and THEN, paint on Plasti Dip on the shelves: Coatings and Adhesives, Rubber and Plastic Coatings | Plasti Dip Interntional

You'd essentially now have "wire shelves" in the refrigerator.
I have wondered about this too, and how tough this Plasti Dip is for this situation. If I reuse the bike rack that was built for the trailer, I will likely have to recoat the protective rubber on the pieces the bikes hang from. Maybe kill two birds with one stone (can)?
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:43 AM   #16
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I suppose that sliding cans and such across refinished shelves could wear down the paint but I have always believed that every problem has a solution. What if you went to the local home building center and bought some plexiglass and cut it to fit over the various shelves. Sort of like having a piece of glass cut to go on top of a new coffee table or dresser drawer to protect the finish.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:53 AM   #17
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I suppose that sliding cans and such across refinished shelves could wear down the paint but I have always believed that every problem has a solution. What if you went to the local home building center and bought some plexiglass and cut it to fit over the various shelves. Sort of like having a piece of glass cut to go on top of a new coffee table or dresser drawer to protect the finish.
That is another thought, Lee. I actually have a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" white acrylic in the garage.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:13 AM   #18
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You sound like a fellow handyman. Depending on where the acrylic is installed in the Fridge you might consider drilling some holes in it for air circulation.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:15 AM   #19
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If this is more than an ice box, you don't want to restrict air flow by using solid materials as shelves. Your refer will end up with hot and cold spots. They don't work like compressor frigs, but you know that Jim
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:31 AM   #20
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Jeepers, build me up, then knock me down. Never thought this thread would be so much of an emotional roller coaster.

But yeah, I do know room has to be left for good circulation. We always use a fan inside our fridge in our Escape, to keep temps equal throughout. I will definitely keep that in mind.
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:10 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Captleemo View Post
What if you went to the local home building center and bought some plexiglass and cut it to fit over the various shelves. Sort of like having a piece of glass cut to go on top of a new coffee table or dresser drawer to protect the finish.
The down side to covering the shelves is you stop the air flow which would probable not be a good thing if this is a RV absorption fridge.

The beer might not get cold!
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:29 AM   #22
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Interesting thread. Just a note: I have some limited experience with plasti-dip. It peels off very easily. I've only used it for a battery tray and some engine brackets, but it's real popular with the "tuner" import car kids as a TEMPORARY paint job. As in peel it off later when you get tired of the color.


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Old 12-17-2014, 06:13 PM   #23
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Interesting thread. Just a note: I have some limited experience with plasti-dip. It peels off very easily. I've only used it for a battery tray and some engine brackets, but it's real popular with the "tuner" import car kids as a TEMPORARY paint job. As in peel it off later when you get tired of the color.


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I worried about that, Glenn. While easy to reverse, it does not sound like it would last too long.

I am leaning towards cleaning and etching, and using the left over white Appliance Epoxy. It too could be cleaned for powder coating if needed at a later date. We'll see.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:05 PM   #24
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hello. The powdercoating places sandblast the pieces before spraying and baking. If you are not in too much of a hurry you can wait until they are doing a particular color that you are looking for and probably get a better price. I have only used a place once for an automotive project a while back and the result was great and not " bank breaking ". If you need to match a color then it can get pricey from the info I got. Worth looking into ? A phone call or a couple. Prices vary as to how popular they are and how much they think of themselves. Places that do motorcycles are more used to small pieces than a place that does only wheels/rims. Keep us posted
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Old 12-20-2014, 07:30 AM   #25
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Naval Jelly in paint dept @ wal,mart or most auto parts places,take a acid brush to the rust is starting it will stop-great product,
my 2 cents.
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