Rusty screws and update

[Uncle Cereal]

I had to loosen my hinges.

I was just able to remove one screw out of four... The other ones are jammed in rust. I have sprayed stuff that's supposed to be miraculous but to no avail. I tried heat also. I did all the tricks: banging a little, screwing before unscrewing.... Nothing worked.

Any words of wisdom?

I removed my spare tire and oh my godness! The back wall was bent out of shape! I don't want to put it back there ever. I'll have to mount it on the back (or front) bumper.

I removed all the curtain rod holders. I removed the Boler emblem. I'm pretty good at removing rivets now...

I decided to remove about 6 " of the top bunk horizontal support, the rest was good... I removed the ensolite that was above it quite easily. I'll have to take some off below, but just where I'll put new wood.

I can't wait to get my door straight, it's been my # 1 concern from the start and that aspect is not mobving along...

Have a happy week!

[Raz]

In some cases I would try chemicals, heat, and a hand impact tool. But on a fiberglass trailer I wouldn't use any of those.. I would find a drill bit just smaller than the screw and drill then out. Raz

[Darwin Maring]

Go to Harbor Freight and get one of those Hand Impact Tools that P. raz recomended above. You hit it with a hammer. Also, PB Blaster spray can. It is great at loosing rusted in things.

[Uncle Cereal]

Darwin, I'm not sure I understand the same thing as you do from Raz's post... Ian thinks that it's galvanic corrosion, a reaction between the two different metals (hinge vs bolt). It seems like Raz is right on and I'll have to go through this the hard way and drill... Just when I though I was done drilling through metal!

[Darwin Maring]

My bad, I didnt read the complete post that Raz posted.
A big jolt will release a frozen screw where just trying to turn it will not.
The hand held impact tool is designed to do that.
You cant go wrong with drilling it out though.

[wbullivant]

I would try a power impact driver, either corded or battery. They are amazing for both driving and removing screws and will exert far less axial load on the surface than the manual type you hit with a hammer. For example:

Robot Check

[Captleemo]

I would be real careful hitting an impact wrench with a hammer on fiberglass. I have an impact wrench, they are heavy, require a good sized hammer and a significant wallop to work. I would not recommend it. Look for one of those screw extractor kits. There are usually three or four to a set. The tip is basically a drill bit tip but they are designed to spin backwards from a regular drill bit. The idea behind them is to heat up the fastener by the friction which is a good thing when extracting stuck fasteners and many times as you are drilling ( backwards ) they will all of a sudden grab the fastener and zip it right out. I would put a few drops of some kind of knocker loose on them and let it soak for awhile. The best product I have ever used is Kroil. The chemical plant I worked in for years used that stuff everyday because it worked.

[Uncle Cereal]

The bolt/screw is accessible from the outside. I don't need a backward bit since a regular bit, coming from the outside, will spin in the proper direction to unscrew it. I'm still hoping for my spray to do the job so I'll try again in a few days. Otherwise, I drill away.