RV parts and service near Seattle? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-27-2009, 10:19 PM   #29
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Trailer: 1977 Boler (Orange Sunrise 'Clementine')
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I think it is the original gel coat and I will probably try buffing it first. But it lived in the desert for a long time and there is a lot going on, especially on the top. There is an area that is a different color, a fair amount of patching, and what I guess would be called crazing. I think the sides could look okay if some shine was brought back, but it will still look somewhat patchy.

I am going to wait to try buffing until spring, but I will let you know.

And: mold release wax?



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Amy,

Is your Boler painted? That sure looks like original gelcoat, at least from the ad photos and colors.

If so, I would not give up on it so easily. Unless it has already been done numerous times (seems doubtful), or is totally crazed, you should be able to buff it up to a lovely shine. And have the original funky orange (of course you could have it painted that color; but a good, two-part paint job is a fair bit of work, and expense).

If you want to try buffing a small section, let me know and I can give you some pointers on a quick way to try a couple of spots.

Raya

PS: If you are going to fill any more spots, I'd recommend first removing the mold-release wax (maybe you did and just didn't mention it).
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Old 11-27-2009, 11:14 PM   #30
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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Okay, I hear you on the roof. But.... you can cover that up with solar panels

I bet if the sides would buff up nice and shiny, you'd be pretty happy with it (at least, I would).

But you're right to take care of the leaks first.

Mold release wax is, well, wax that they put into the female mold before they start to make each trailer (or boat, or whatever molded). Then they spray in the gelcoat, and then start laying (or spraying) in fiberglass.

Amazingly (I find this hard to fathom even though I know it's true!), the wax can/is still there 30+ years later. Or traces of it anyway. So it's always a good idea to remove it before doing anything that you want to adhere to the shell. Probably less important for caulk than for other things, but I would want to remove it before putting on that putty, for example. It's like a waxy/greasy contaminant that can cause poor adhesion.

But, easy to remove If you want to get fancy, there are specific solvents, like Prep Sol or Interlux 202 (what I use and which Fisheries will have). But you can probably do just fine with acetone, too.

The key is to not recontaminate as you decontaminate. So you want to fold the towels/rags carefully, and only use each fold once, so you don't re-swipe an area with an already swiped bit.

Then it will be gone.

But anytime you re-bed, reseal, or etc. it's a good idea to at least wipe with acetone or denatured alcohol, after you clean the dirt off.

Yeah, I know. Now we tell you

Raya

PS: On the other hand, look how far you've come in just a week or so, considering this thread was about how to find someone else to work on your egg for things you couldn't do (then, but can now )

PPS: If you are interested, there are books on fiberglass boat maintenance and repair that explain (and show) how to do a lot of this stuff. Not that that replaces the forum, but I like to have reference material to hand too.
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:25 AM   #31
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So, you're saying we should have wiped down with denatured alcohol before applying the new filler? Because we did that. That would be nice if we did something correctly on accident.
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:43 AM   #32
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I think with filler it would have been better to use an actual acetone type chemical (the mold release wax is a type of acetone, as far as I know). In general, once you've de-waxed, denatured alcohol works and is a bit less toxic seeming.

And it somewhat depends on what you're doing. For fiberglassing or painting, I would want to de-wax (and you were doing something that I would classify as fiberglassing; i.e. using resin on the gelcoat). But for something like bedding a window or a hatch, denatured alcohol is probably fine.

You'll probably be fine with what you've done though, and if it does fail, well, you can do it again. it's not like you installed a critical component or put on a $2k paint job this time. At least if I understood you correctly, you were putting filler over filler? I still can't exactly visualize how this filler went on though (hint, hint)

No photos?

Raya
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Old 11-28-2009, 09:57 AM   #33
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I know, I torture you with my lack of photos. I haven't taken the time to take any yet or learn how to upload them properly here. Too busy obsessing over leaks and scrubbing yards of ensolite.


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You'll probably be fine with what you've done though, and if it does fail, well, you can do it again. it's not like you installed a critical component or put on a $2k paint job this time. At least if I understood you correctly, you were putting filler over filler? I still can't exactly visualize how this filler went on though (hint, hint)

No photos?

Raya
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