Safe to not use a battery box? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-05-2016, 07:39 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackieLynn View Post
Quote--

We still have the tongue box that comes with the Bigfoot, so the entire front area (battery and propane tanks) are still protected. Is this setup safe?

Without a box there is nothing stopping dust and mud etc from coming up from below and getting all over the greased battery connections. Also nothing stopping bad stuff from dripping down and out onto the trailer frame or ground should the battery leak.

If your having to take the cover off to turn the tanks on and off each time then there is a still the risk of something contacting with the terminals.

A box is cheap insurance.

The only reason I have a custom box for my 6 volts is because the propane cover on my OSB trailer is only large enough to cover the propane tanks and the space originally allocated to the battery box just ahead of the tanks would only hold a group 27 battery box that sat down low between the tongue frame. Current box still sits ahead of the propane tanks but its now sitting up on the frame - not the best but it works. I do not think you would need to do this with your Bigfoot looks like you may have room under the current cover for 2 six volts.
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Old 08-05-2016, 07:52 PM   #30
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I would defiantly go with a battery box for not only the shorting hazard but it will also protect from flying rocks which do quite a bit of damage to the battery case. You will then be looking at a replacement battery and repainting the frame and possibly replacing wiring from acid damage. A battery case is pretty cheap insurance.
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Old 08-06-2016, 12:29 AM   #31
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I like the idea of a fuse right on the terminal. I looked at the recommended fuse block:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...9T6WYS2P92F0DN (no fuse included).

That's when I got confused. I have no idea what size fuse to buy and they're not cheap (about $17 each).

If anyone can point me to the info I need to determine the correct fuse size I'd appreciate it.
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Old 08-06-2016, 01:16 PM   #32
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Battery Box / Fusing Battery

Hello Group,

Thought you might be interested in the battery installation
on my '78 Trillium 1300. There is a fuse in the positive lead
right at the battery terminal as in the photo. The trailer has
a 600W Exeltech sine wave inverter that powers a juicer and
coffee grinder, etc. I picked the 80A fuse as the inverter will
draw 50A+ at times. You will also notice another small inline
fuse that is part of the circuit for the 1.5A Battery Tender that
is used to keep the battery topped off when the trailer is stored.
The battery is a Trojan SCS225 that has served well for 8 years.
The frame for the box was fabricated from aluminum angle
bolted together and through. The strap holds the whole thing,
box and battery to the frame bolted to the tongue.


Keep on camping, Larry H
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Battery Box.jpg   Box Top.jpg  

Battery Top.jpg   Fuse Details.jpg  

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Old 08-06-2016, 02:53 PM   #33
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As I think about how my battery fits inside the box, it is loose in there.
But the lid sits down on the corners of the battery, so the strap on the outside does hold it down, but would not prevent movement side to side.
I think one reason for the box is to keep dirt and moisture off. Those can build up and make a path for electrons to travel between the + and - terminals and discharge the battery. So, be sure the + post is well insulated.
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Old 08-06-2016, 03:20 PM   #34
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battery box "problems"....

the OP situation could be made workable and very much safe by simply finding a right sized plastic tub to cover the battery (accidental short and dirt issue solved)

the problem I had with battery boxes is the lids are shaped/sized to accomodate very large wires and connectors....making them taller than they have to be for our applications....then you have to secure the box externally meaning space between them (more space lost)....

In cases like that I find it easier, cheaper and better to make my own.....my battery box is made out of 3/4" material, 1/4" lid...it's an axact fit (no movement inside) and it's secured to the floor by 4 screws (through the lino and subfloor).....I find those battery terminal fuses quite expensive so I installed a regular fuse holder just outside the box (20A)

lots of ways to skin a cat........B17CB right side dinette seat area
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battbox4.jpg   battbox5.jpg  

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Old 08-06-2016, 03:43 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franswa View Post
.....I find those battery terminal fuses quite expensive so I installed a regular fuse holder just outside the box (20A...
On a scale of 1-100 with 1 being very dangerous and 100 being very safe, I would say that the on-terminal fuses are a 94, and your inline fuse as shown is a 93. I would be fine with it if it were my rig and yes, it is quite a bit cheaper.

If I recall right you had a discussion about venting those batteries inside the living space. Perhaps its worth mentioning again briefly in this thread.

(And drat, I have already violated my self-imposed and temporary 1000 post limit.)
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Old 08-06-2016, 04:22 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by 40bpm View Post

If anyone can point me to the info I need to determine the correct fuse size I'd appreciate it.
Fuses protect wires and not much else because they are very slow. In general the size of the wire, assuming it was sized properly, determines the size of the fuse. With out knowing your set up it is impossible to recommend a fuse value.

I have a group 24 battery connected with 12 gauge wire, protected by a 20 amp fuse. I used one of these.

http://https://www.amazon.com/420554...s=In+line+fuse

It and 5 fuses cost about $10. Good luck, Raz
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Old 08-06-2016, 05:55 PM   #37
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Fuses protect wires and not much else because they are very slow. ...
That almost sounds like a recommendation for a surge suppressor.

Drat, now I am two over my self-imposed and temporary 1,000 post limit!!!
Why can't I stop???
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Old 08-06-2016, 11:01 PM   #38
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yep that's right Gord...

I inherited my two batts vented inside the trailer from my PO....used them that way for a couple of years....and I'm still alive...(Like most boaters I had unvented batteries in boats for YEARS before that)

when I relocated the batteries to the opposite side of the trailer I added an outside vent...I may want to sell this trailer one day
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battbox5.jpg  
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:50 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raz View Post
Fuses protect wires and not much else because they are very slow. In general the size of the wire, assuming it was sized properly, determines the size of the fuse. With out knowing your set up it is impossible to recommend a fuse value.

I have a group 24 battery connected with 12 gauge wire, protected by a 20 amp fuse. I used one of these.

http://https://www.amazon.com/420554...s=In+line+fuse

It and 5 fuses cost about $10. Good luck, Raz
Thanks Raz. Exactly what I needed. My '02 Bigfoot 17' has very simple 12 volt systems so I doubt it will draw much current. The 20amp fuse is probably just right. The inline fuse you referenced is a good price.
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