Welcome to the group Cathy. I've seen a number of posts that talk of that problem. I'll leave the fixes for those who have done them to chime in. Some times it's just a worn out hinge to the body shell saging . It would help if you posted some pics as that really helps us out.
Before you do anything to the door.... carefully check the frame for cracks.
It may be the trailer body which has shifted. (hope not)
Check the hinge pin bolts for wear, sometimes you can just drill out the hinge and replace the 1/4" pin bolts with 5/16" stainless . That could make the hinge concentric once again if it has wallowed out.
Got Pictures?
Like Floyd said an under trailer inspection is in order. Besides inspecting the metal frame at either side of the the base of the door there are pieces of plywood which is used to attach the shell (door frame) to the metal walkway frame extensions. Check these pieces of wood for security and rot. These pieces of wood more than likely have glass cloth applied over them. Hopefully hinge maintenance is all that is required.
Eddie
The Scamp door is pretty much flush with the outside of the body shell and it should fit well into the recess. The gap on the left, right and top should be about the same width. Does it close well or do you see light when looking from inside?
Cathy, help us help you. Update your profile to include the year of your Scamp build. And if you could post a picture or two of the door problem, that would certainly help.
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Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
I bought an older Scamp with the furniture removed. I towed it 600 miles to home with a hasp holding the door closed and the shell behaving like a pillar of jello.
I had to form the shell back to its original position as I built the new interior.
The door fit fine after the rehab.
I think you may have found the problem.
Both the cabinet to counter metal brace and the closet provide supporting structure.
This thread on redoing the front floor has a picture that shows the wood brace that connects the bottom of the door frame on the hinge side to the frame. Might give you an idea of what you are looking for underneath.
Scamp sells replacement hinges and hinge pins. If you decide to go that route call and ask for US Postal shipping, cheaper than web store shipping for small items.
"Pillar of jello" now there is a description of a Scamp I have never heard before. I would think if the shell is properly attached and supported there would be no need to re-drill and move the hinges. If that bottom wood piece has rotted or become detached the bottom of the door frame will continue to move and allow hinge side to sag more as time goes by.
Both the cabinet to counter metal brace and the closet provide supporting structure.
This thread on redoing the front floor has a picture that shows the wood brace that connects the bottom of the door frame on the hinge side to the frame. Might give you an idea of what you are looking for underneath.
Scamp sells replacement hinges and hinge pins. If you decide to go that route call and ask for US Postal shipping, cheaper than web store shipping for small items.
"Pillar of jello" now there is a description of a Scamp I have never heard before. I would think if the shell is properly attached and supported there would be no need to re-drill and move the hinges. If that bottom wood piece has rotted or become detached the bottom of the door frame will continue to move and allow hinge side to sag more as time goes by.
Be sure and know which hinge set you want the design was changed a few years ago.
. It would help if you posted some pics as that really helps us out.
Eggy-Sue (the pull-it surprize)
Linear Mode
