Scamp 13 Brake Wiring - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 02-12-2008, 04:33 PM   #15
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Trailer: Trillium
Posts: 712
home wiring usually does not have as many strands, and corrodes faster.
Crimp connections on 7 or 13 strand wire will usually come loose in no time flat. It is generally harder to solder as well.A good 20 or 30 strand automotive wire sized to the current will outlast anything you can do too it, except actually cutting the wire.

THHN is oil and gas resistant, but I have found that it gets brittle if exposed to the elements


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Old 02-12-2008, 05:42 PM   #16
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Name: Byron
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13' towed with a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7l Magnum W/full tow package (over kill)
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What I did, rather than have a splice in that area, was to just run a dedicated white wire from the negative terminal on the battery over to the blue wire and then both back to the wheels.

However, I was moving the trailer between the time the battery was stolen and it was replaced and the brakes didn't work -- I had positive battery connected, through the controller, but there was no return.... I won't make that mistake again.

Byron, where does one go to get the good automotive wire -- One thing about using stranded home wiring is that it is easily obtainable from Home Despot, etc.
That's a good question. I did a little searching and found this place.. I would recommend SXL for under trailer wiring such as brake wires. TXL would work for inside wiring where there's no wire movement likely.

Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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