Scamp 13 Door Keeps Opening While Towing - Fiberglass RV
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Old 07-17-2019, 02:59 PM   #1
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Scamp 13 Door Keeps Opening While Towing

Is there a way I can adjust etc... so our 1993 13 Scamp door will stop opening while towing?

I put in a new door handle assembly but it didn't help. It seems almost like the strike plate isn't quite long enough.

I've tried locking the handle & it still opens.

Thanks for any help!Click image for larger version

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Old 07-17-2019, 03:02 PM   #2
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
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Shim out the strike plate
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:15 AM   #3
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Massachusetts
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Looks like you need to update the hinges and replace the strike and set it correctly. Your lucky that your door hasn't fallen off while towing.
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:41 AM   #4
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In the mean time...
Be sure you press on the handle until you hear it click and lock the door with the key before getting underway.
The stock handle can get loose as it ages, which can cause it to turn when you hit a bump just from the weight of the handle.
You could also rotate the handle in the latch so that it points straight down.


Of course you may need further adjustment or even parts replacement.




You could also close the door, push it into place. then while it is in place , remove only the hinge bolts (one at a time)and drill out the hinge to 5/16ths, right through the ball and all. replace the old bolts with stainless 5/16ths bolts and nuts.
This will often renew the hinge and straighten the door.
Of course if the hinges have more wear or are starting to wallow out the fiberglass...
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:05 AM   #5
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Name: RogerDat
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Remove a section of foam weather strip for around 4 to 6 inches above and below the latch. Replace with thinner foam.

I had the same problem with my 77 even with new handle and hinges. But only right after I installed new foam seal to the door. Was told try removing the foam right at the latch and viola! It worked. I then got some thinner foam.

At the latch it just needs to just make contact between the door and foam. Not squish the foam down. One can use modeling clay to measure the gap after removing the existing foam above and below latch. Stick a ball clay in the door frame then compress by closing door and latching. Measuer the ball of clay after squishing, that will tell you the thickest foam you can have near the latch.

Inside handle is on a square shaft so one can undo the set screw that holds it there and pull the inside handle off and put it back on so it points down. That will avoid a bump causing the handle to turn a bit from the handle sticking out horizontal. Locking will help too but the door handle can move the door latch a little bit even when locked.
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:14 AM   #6
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Peanut's door was popping open sometimes during towing...so we began using a very small bungee cord to hold it after we locked it shut. So far, works fine. I agree, other adjustments are wise. But we'd use the bungee now regardless. Extra insurance.


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Old 07-18-2019, 11:32 AM   #7
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Smile

Barry,


I see you live in Minnesota. Call Scamp, make an appointment and have them replace the hinges and strike. Easy enough, why fool around with it.
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Old 07-18-2019, 11:41 AM   #8
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mine started to open when traveling. I simply replaced the latch mechanism and solved te problem. There's a spring inside that after a few years gets weak doesn't want extend the latch far enough to catch well on the striker plate. Simple easy fix.
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Old 07-18-2019, 12:59 PM   #9
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As Floyd suggested, rotate the outer handle 180 degrees, so you have to lift it to open the door. It makes others think it is locked, and counterbalances the inner handle.
Of course, that is after you are sure the latch engages fully with the strike.
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:23 PM   #10
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Name: Terry
Trailer: 1971 Hunter compact Jr, 1979 Terry 19', 2003 Scamp 16'
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Three weeks ago on the way back from Eureka, Ca we had our door start opening on us. I had to use duct tape to keep it closed that 450 miles (not the best,but it worked). I ordered the inside and outside latch assemblies along with the hinge rebuild kits from Scamp. My door latch assembly was worn out and it helped a lot, but I believe the hinge kits were as important. Even though the old ones appeared to be fine, the new ones repositioned the door so that it lined up better raising the latch side at least 1/2" and bringing it in tighter. This past weekend we went to Pismo Beach. The door stayed latched. The kits are cheap and easily installed.
The door was leaving a gap when closed. The previous owner had replaced the weather stripping, but still had a 1/4" gap above the latch. I had been checking posts on reshaping doors. I'm glad I didn't try. The door now fits perfectly.
Since I've had the Scamp I've replaced the furnace fan motor, the fantastic fan switch, installed 2- 12v outlets, upgraded the battery and setup 100 w solar, but this was still the item that gave me the most important result. No door, no go. We like to go.
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:35 PM   #11
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This topic keeps coming back, it is a known problem. Here is my comment from long time ago. My "temporary" solution has life of its own and is still in use now. Read here:http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post696681
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Old 07-24-2019, 01:47 PM   #12
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Barry,

You don't show the entire door as it looks when closed, but from looking at your hinges I would guess they are a major part of the problem. If they allow the door to sag it won't hit the striker properly or close correctly.

My Scamp door was staying closed, but the previous owner had left new hinges with the trailer and I installed them. The old hinges looked okay --until I removed them and took them apart. Not only was the brass ball shot, but the sockets were heavily worn as well, almost to the point of total failure. Scamp sells a repair kit with a new pin and ball, but that wouldn't have fixed my problem. Only new complete hinges would bring the door back to where it was supposed to be.

It wasn't obvious that the door was sagging until I replaced the hinges. With the new hinges installed my Scamp door looks and closes 100% better.

My old hinges were 43-years old. I'll bet they hadn't been lubed in a very long time. As my dad used to say: "Oil is cheaper than metal."

... and don't forget to lube the inside door latch mechanism too!

Harold
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Old 07-24-2019, 01:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul O. View Post
This topic keeps coming back, it is a known problem. Here is my comment from long time ago. My "temporary" solution has life of its own and is still in use now. Read here:http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post696681



True and all the crazy solutions along with it.
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Harold View Post
Barry,

You don't show the entire door as it looks when closed, but from looking at your hinges I would guess they are a major part of the problem. If they allow the door to sag it won't hit the striker properly or close correctly.

My Scamp door was staying closed, but the previous owner had left new hinges with the trailer and I installed them. The old hinges looked okay --until I removed them and took them apart. Not only was the brass ball shot, but the sockets were heavily worn as well, almost to the point of total failure. Scamp sells a repair kit with a new pin and ball, but that wouldn't have fixed my problem. Only new complete hinges would bring the door back to where it was supposed to be.

It wasn't obvious that the door was sagging until I replaced the hinges. With the new hinges installed my Scamp door looks and closes 100% better.

My old hinges were 43-years old. I'll bet they hadn't been lubed in a very long time. As my dad used to say: "Oil is cheaper than metal."

... and don't forget to lube the inside door latch mechanism too!

Harold
Thanks for all the ideas! I really appreciate it.

I went to order a hinge kit from Scamp ($64.00) but I see shipping is $20.00 & I live about 2 hours away. Is the shipping charge correct??
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Old 07-30-2019, 06:08 PM   #15
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Yes, I get that from many manufacturers because they don’t want to use the US Postal service where “if it fits, it ships” for a flat rate. They tend to use the more expensive UPS or Fedx.. I would bring it to the scamp factory and have them rehang the door with new hardware.
Dave & Paula
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Old 07-30-2019, 07:53 PM   #16
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Call Scamp and ask them to ship it "UPS Ground". It should be much cheaper.
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:02 PM   #17
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Call Scamp and ask them to ship it "UPS Ground". It should be much cheaper.

Unless it's being shipped to Canada, in which case you will get an additional bill for customs brokerage ( $50 on a $250 microphone ).

I ask for US Postal Service or I don't buy. USPS delvers to Canada Post who delivers to my door, with no additional charges.
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:30 PM   #18
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Glenn, Barry lives in Minnesota.
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:58 PM   #19
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Glenn, Barry lives in Minnesota.

I realize that. It's just that any time I see UPS I have to pipe up and educate people on what kind of company they are.
BTW. They left the parcel on the doorstep and send me a bill for brokerage by mail a couple weeks later. USPS doesn't bill me for brokerage.
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