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Old 04-15-2015, 02:53 PM   #21
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I believe we were discussing repairs to old furnaces, not new construction.
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Old 04-15-2015, 02:58 PM   #22
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Actually they are dead simple, even if they are old. There are some important considerations though. Primarily that the heat exchanger doesn't leak, then the gas valve has to work. If it doesn't work it can be replaced. It may take some shopping though. I found a gas valve that will work on my furnace for about $100, but the ports are in different places, so some tube bending is required. I suspect that you have to match up the btu input. I recently purchased a furnace that has the same basic design, and the same input btu's. I will try to use the gas valve off that.

Since they are so difficult to remove, find someone who will work on it while it is installed in your trailer.

Carole, I find it difficult to believe that a licensed furnace service person would get in trouble for repairing an appliance that was CSA approved in it's day. That is like saying that a mechanic would loose their license for working on a Model T because it doesn't meet current crash standards.

Please leave the CO argument alone. This style of furnace is no more likely to develop a leak, or cause CO poisoning then any current design. The reason they no longer meet CSA standards is all about surface temperature.
I am not a pipe fitter so I can not speak to heating appliances. I do know that as an electrician that defects were found in parts manufactured by certain manufacturers and the UL listing for that part or assembly was rescinded.
I was not allowed by law to repair or install that assembly. You were supposed to replace the defective assembly with an approved assembly or red tag and render the assembly unusable . As a licensed electrician, I was not about to violate the law and expose myself to the liability for violating the law just too save the customer a couple of bucks. The part I mentioned was a circuit breaker with a history of exploding under fault. A friend of mine was badly burned by one of these breaker .
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Old 04-15-2015, 03:01 PM   #23
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I believe we were discussing repairs to old furnaces, not new construction.
Yes we were but as stated only answering a question you asked as it applies to an electrician and old equipment not necessarily new construction.
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Old 04-15-2015, 03:30 PM   #24
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Sorry I caused a war of words. All I wanted was some information about the unknown furnace that was in my scamp 13.

Thanks to those who firnished that information to me. I was able to get the lower panel off this afternoon. It was just stuck...and my large hammer took care of that!

The control panel within the furnace panel is quite dirty, and looks like it hasn't been used in years. Since I have no plans to camp in cold weather, I am forgoing any thought of restoring the furnace at this time.

However, I do want to refinish the front panels of the furance so it won't look so tacky! Has anyone here actually removed the upper outer panel of this type of furnace?

It appears that the upper outer panel is attached with two screws on the lower edge of the panel. Is there additional screws, or (hopefully) is the upper part of the panel held by retaining clips?

Can anyone help me with this? Also, does anyone have a manual for this furnace?

Bill
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Old 04-15-2015, 03:39 PM   #25
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This is a thread that has that image. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ase-37948.html
Thanks RogerDat! I had overlooked your message!

Bill
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Old 04-15-2015, 05:23 PM   #26
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If you post the exact Mfg's name and model number it will help in finding a manual.
There should be a sticker inside the cover somewhere



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Old 04-15-2015, 05:51 PM   #27
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Update on post #14
Technician called and based on the pic I sent he wants to order a new power block and postponed for a couple of days. Will follow up on LP furnaces when he comes.



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Old 04-15-2015, 07:22 PM   #28
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If you post the exact Mfg's name and model number it will help in finding a manual.
There should be a sticker inside the cover somewhere
At the moment, getting the cover off is the problem!

However, Rachel in her early message wrote that the model number was GT6-3A.

I'd hate to make a mistake and damage the cover, that's why I am asking for some help. It's been my experance that everything is simple when you know the answers..

Bill
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:26 PM   #29
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Hold the Presses! I have found a owners manual!

Thanks everyone for you help!

Bill
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:45 PM   #30
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Did you find a manual for Rachel's heater or for yours? There is no guarantee that they are the same.



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Old 04-15-2015, 08:19 PM   #31
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Did you find a manual for Rachel's heater or for yours? There is no guarantee that they are the same.
Bob, I'm begining to think that you are a very evil man!

Here I was all aglow with a warm feeling that at last I had found the owners manual for my furnace....when you come along and burst my bubble!

However, I'm sure there must be some goodness deep inside of you...trying to get out!

All I know is that from the little I have seen of my furnace's components, they match the components shown in the drawings in the GT6-3A Manual.

I have learned how to remove the upper panel, so tomorrow I should be able to view any data plate that exists. Problem with a data plate some 37 years old, is that in many cases they are not readable.

More later,

Bill
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:43 PM   #32
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Yep, I have learned that reality can, indeed, be very harsh mistress



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Old 04-16-2015, 08:48 AM   #33
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Bill,

I pulled our furnace out of our '76 13' Scamp, the furnace looks just like yours. The label and operating instructions were on the right side near the bottom, it was held on with two screws. Ours is a Suburban gravity furnace, model GT6-3A. After disconnecting the gas line and a couple of screws it slides out toward the interior.

We don't intend to reinstall ours, it worked fine but was too damn close to the bed. I am sure that it needs a tune up but it is available. If I can figure out how to send photos I will post them.

Bob


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Old 04-16-2015, 08:50 AM   #34
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Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1429195817.247428.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	104.8 KB
ID:	82693

Here is our plate.

Bob


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Old 04-16-2015, 02:01 PM   #35
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Attachment 82693

Here is our plate.

Bob


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Thanks Bob!

This morning I was able to remove the two bottom screws and lift off the outside panel. So quick and simple!

However, reading the data plate with the furnace in place was interesting. I ended up with my face on the very dirty floor looking upward and to the right. Even then it was difficult because of a metal flange that was in the way.

But, I was able to read the GT6-3 clearly. After I removed a couple of mice nests, the furnace didn't look all that bad. Controls moved OK, so maybe it would work. I have no plans on trying it at this time.

I can understand why the location of the furnace could be a problem when sleeping, or even entering or exiting the road side dinette seat. Hot! Hot! A guard type grill might be in order to make touching the panel more difficult.

Bob, did you have any problem seperating the intake and exaust pipes when you pulled the furnace forward?

Thanks again,

Bill
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Old 04-16-2015, 06:58 PM   #36
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Bill, the exhaust pipe should separate, one slides into the other. It might be easier removing the external one first from the outside. They could be rusted together.


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Old 04-16-2015, 07:19 PM   #37
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Is this the manual you found for your furnace? If shows how the pipes come apart.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...91071109,d.cGU



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Old 04-17-2015, 09:41 AM   #38
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Bill, the exhaust pipe should separate, one slides into the other. It might be easier removing the external one first from the outside. They could be rusted together.


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Was your exhaust pipe rusted together? I am just curious...as of this moment I don't plan on removing the furnace.

However, as I have stated before...I'm very wishy-washy and change my mind every hour or so!

Bill
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Old 04-17-2015, 09:55 AM   #39
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Is this the manual you found for your furnace? If shows how the pipes come apart.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...91071109,d.cGU
Yes, that is the same manual.

And my furnace is the Suburban Model GT6-3A.

It reminds me of the furnace my wife and I had in our first home many years ago. No fan, and I don't believe it even had a thermostat! FAA Approved homes across the street, had furnaces with fans, and thermostats. VA Approved homes like ours didn't! A topic way off subject!

Bill
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:39 AM   #40
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Was your exhaust pipe rusted together? I am just curious...as of this moment I don't plan on removing the furnace.

However, as I have stated before...I'm very wishy-washy and change my mind every hour or so!

Bill
Bill I think you will find the condition of all our old furnaces will vary greatly by the location the trailer has spent most of its life. For example I have seen RV furnaces that are less than 8 years old that appear to have a great deal of rust on them vs some that are more then 20 years old with little to no rust evident. Around here one thing you can be sure of is that if you live by the sea and the trailer is stored outside things will rust faster than if the trailer is stored inside.

BTW one of my understandings as to one of reasons the old furnace you have has been deemed to be unsafe is the size & design of exhaust and intact system which on the older systems such as yours where nested together with one pipe being of a smaller size vs the two separate intact and output pipes of similar if not same size, that you will see on newer systems.
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