Scamp 16 help needed - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-20-2012, 05:20 PM   #1
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Scamp 16 help needed

I am working through a list of repairs on my Scamp 16 and I am stuck on a couple things:

1. The grey water tank has a leak where the main pipe enters. Does this pipe just twist off? There appears to be a crack so if it is supposed to twist off I fear the treaded part will stay inside. It appears to be cemented on.
2. On the side of my stove there are two clips attached to the fiberglass. It almost appears as though a little counter extension attached here at one time. Does anyone know what these clips are for?
3. I need to replace my water fill valve that is cracked. I ordered the parts from Scamp. When I took off the old hose there was brown sticky stuff on each fitting where the hose attached. Is there some type of sealant that is supposed to be used in addition to the clamps?
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Old 08-20-2012, 05:43 PM   #2
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#2 it would help if you posted a photo of clips - when you say stove side -what model of scamp you have will change what side the stove is on. Is it the passenger side the clips are on? Only clips on mine on that side are for attaching the awning.

#3 Is it the city water valve you are replacing our the water tank filler value? Although I have replaced both and I didnt use any sealers - just clamps.

Edit: is it possible the brown sticky stuff is bytal tape used to mount the fixtures?
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:33 PM   #3
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Photos

The water tank filler is the one I need to replace. The brown stuff was under the hoze on both sides (tank and filler). I thought it could be residue from RV antifreeze too. I attached photos showing it on the tank and the hoze.

I should have clarified the clips are on the inside of the camper. They are next to the bench on the side of the stove. I have a Scamp 16 with side dinette. I attached a photo showing the clips, one on the left and right side of the outlet.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG00299-20120820-1821.jpg   IMG00300-20120820-1823.jpg  

IMG00301-20120820-1823.jpg  
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:47 PM   #4
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Joe sorry have never seen clips like that but suspect you are right the PO must have had some sort of counter extension . The stuff on the end of the pipe looks a bit like it could be very old silicone caulking while the stuff on the tank connection looks more like some old glue type residue. hummmm. sorry cant help you.
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:25 PM   #5
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Joe,
Those clips look like clips to put wooden storm windows on a house, old owner must had something rigged up for counter extension. On Grey water tank are you talking about the inlet or outlet? Black gunk was on my water filler hose also when I replaced filler, seemed to me to be almost like a permatex gasket sealer. I just clamped mine with hose clamps
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:30 PM   #6
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or is it your fresh water tank? picture isnt of your grey water tank. If it is fresh water tank then yes I think they are cemented on
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:12 PM   #7
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Joe, it happens that I actually pulled out my rear bench yesterday to work on another problem and I was reminded that I had the grey water fitting at the floor level spring a small leak while on the road awhile ago and actually did a quick fix while still traveling by sticking a new piece of pipe down into the hole that went into the grey water tank leaving the original pipe fitting in place inside the hole as like you I didnt know if i needed to drop the grey water tank to get the fitting off or not. What I did to repair it has lasted a year but now that I have been reminded of the problem and the area open I would like to fix it correctly as it does reduce the diameter of opening for the grey water to flow - appreciate it if you post what you discover in regards to getting the original fitting off.

BTW I also took a look at the where the fresh water filling pipe enters/attached to the tank and mine has a clamp and what appears to be some old cement glue on it as well - although I am not sure the glue at this point is doing much.
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Old 08-21-2012, 04:52 PM   #8
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Drinking water adhesive and grey tank repair

My plan is to wait until winter until I tackle the grey water tank leak. For now I have covered the area in caulk. Normally I do repairs the right way, but we are going camping next weekend. Usually when I jump into projects they snowball so one week is not enough to start ripping things apart.

I e-mailed Scamp about the adhesive. My guess is that any plastic adhesive safe for drinking water supply could be used. I have no experience with drinking water safe adhesives. I have used pipe tape but I don't think that will work for this.
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:01 PM   #9
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..........

I e-mailed Scamp about the adhesive. My guess is that any plastic adhesive safe for drinking water supply could be used. I have no experience with drinking water safe adhesives. I have used pipe tape but I don't think that will work for this.
You don't need adhesive where the water hose attaches. I'd clean all the old adhesive off with a solvent and reattach the hose with a couple of stainless steel hose clamps.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:49 AM   #10
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Thanks Tom - I currently have my tank pulled as I wanted an outside electrical plug right where it sits up against the outside wall ;-) Decided it was a good time to check and redo the tank plumping while I have the bench out.

One thing I noticed after loosing the water tank straps and moving it a little is that the drain valve just sits in the drain pipe in the floor. Nothing securing it in place other than the straps that stop the tank from moving. Is that normal on the Scamps? or should I be using something to secure the actual valve to the drain pipe - the actual valve goes down into the drain pipe by only about 1/2" or so?
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:24 AM   #11
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Thanks Tom - I currently have my tank pulled as I wanted an outside electrical plug right where it sits up against the outside wall ;-) Decided it was a good time to check and redo the tank plumping while I have the bench out.

One thing I noticed after loosing the water tank straps and moving it a little is that the drain valve just sits in the drain pipe in the floor. Nothing securing it in place other than the straps that stop the tank from moving. Is that normal on the Scamps? or should I be using something to secure the actual valve to the drain pipe - the actual valve goes down into the drain pipe by only about 1/2" or so?
Sometimes it is better to not secure too tightly things that move relative to one another. One concern that I might have is if bees can come up the drain pipe past the valve.
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Old 08-23-2012, 03:19 PM   #12
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Thanks Tom I was kind of wondering if it was better off not being attached - on the off chance the tank was to shift a mm. As it is the valve can turn on its own inside the drain pipe but if ridged it would brake off instead resulting in a little flood.... hummm

Dont think the bees are a concern the valve fits pretty snug in the drain pipe, no gap.

Thanks.
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Old 08-23-2012, 03:36 PM   #13
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Dont know what caused this on mine but the floor was all spongy in front of water tank, tank drain? overflow plastic tube? prior water line leak? Repaired floor, epoxied a short piece of 3/4 copper with a 3/4 to 3/4 coupler soldered on so that the drain valve even if that drain tube fell off water would go into pipe instead of floor, did that with overflow tube also except I used 1/2 pipe instead..........The other Tom
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Old 08-25-2012, 12:48 PM   #14
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Tom (the other one ;-) - did you also happen to redo the pipe where the sink drains into the grey water tank? Looks like mine may have been fixed at some point - not pretty but has worked and the area is dry. Would like to fix correctly but I am not clear if the pipe that feeds though the floor into the tank is threaded to the tank or is it just glued in place? do you happen to recall?
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