Scamp bunk mount dimensions & window ? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-04-2013, 08:36 PM   #21
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Name: Pam
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RogerDat, you git that camper back together asap and get over to Algonac !

I think you're going to love that wide deep couch without the bunk. It will be deep enough for comfortable sleeping.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:25 PM   #22
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Name: RogerDat
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Pam - It's not apart, just dusty. Well it's a little apart. But our camping containers are sitting in the garage waiting to go back in and Cheryl has the food containers and cooler in the kitchen (drunk gummy bears in the fridge).

Donna - I doubt any but our youngest grandchild is small enough for the top bunk and as a younger brother myself I fully support his right to fall on top of his older brother in the middle of the night.

I don't want to skimp on the FG and create a problem for someone else down the road but have no idea how much is enough. Or when I get to the point where I'm just wasting resin. Have never seen stock, what was on there was PO work, and not very good at that.
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Old 08-31-2017, 07:45 AM   #23
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Thanks to all who have added to this thread-- it's a great resource as I tackle the same project.

I'm hesitant to use any kind of plywood, OSB, waferboard etc. for this small but structurally important piece. I'm worried that should it ever leak again, we'll be going down the same road twice.

For around $10-$15, I can get a piece of solid pine, poplar or oak -- but I'm also thinking that a piece of PVC (plastic) board might also be an awesome, completely rot-resistant option for roughly the same price. Any thoughts on the PVC to fiberglass bond, or its suitability for this application?
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Old 08-31-2017, 11:48 AM   #24
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Name: RogerDat
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Originally Posted by Forward Look View Post
Thanks to all who have added to this thread-- it's a great resource as I tackle the same project.

I'm hesitant to use any kind of plywood, OSB, waferboard etc. for this small but structurally important piece. I'm worried that should it ever leak again, we'll be going down the same road twice.

For around $10-$15, I can get a piece of solid pine, poplar or oak -- but I'm also thinking that a piece of PVC (plastic) board might also be an awesome, completely rot-resistant option for roughly the same price. Any thoughts on the PVC to fiberglass bond, or its suitability for this application?
It took me a while to re-bed the window with butyl tape, and clear the weep holes that prev. owner sealed so that wood was exposed to water several times by window leaks before I finished work (this spring I go the last drip) BUT the plywood is completely coated with fiberglass resin before I installed. Wood can't get wet. End grain three coats, top, bottom a good solid two coats.

Then after installing tabbing it in with fiberglass and resin to attach to camper puts some more fiberglass between wood and outside world. My guess is it wouldn't rot in a bucket of water.

Plywood is generally stronger in most uses than same thickness of solid wood. Grain in each layer of plywood runs opposite ones it is between. Alternating grain lines + glue + massive pressure yield more strength than wood alone. Might consider marine plywood but if all is sealed in fiberglass resin all the extra cost of marine ply buys you is fewer voids and waterproof glue.

Attaching to wall would be biggest headache I would see to non wood solution. With wood you just "tab" strips of FG cloth or matting and resin like tape. Using thickened resin or epoxy as a filler in the wall to wood join. That bonds to the properly prepped wall and the properly prepped wood with a great deal of strength. You walls are attached to the scamp floor with tabbing and it holds until the wood rots out. Which usually take a long time because the wood is coated with fiberglass resin.
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