Scamp bunk mount dimensions & window ? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-22-2012, 12:02 PM   #15
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
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Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
Roger
I am working on a mid 80's 13 and it is pulled apart and easy for me to measure.
The wood is 1/2" covered with ensolite. I think I would replace with 3/4" and just paint it white when finished.
41 1/8" wide.
2" deep on each end.
3 1/2 deep in center.
3 3/4" from top of board to fiberglass window opening.
31 3/8 between the inside of the hinges.

I would use West Sys. Six 10 epoxy filler to first attach the wood to the wall and fill gaps. ( Comes in a calk gun tube.) Then glass in with 2" glass tape. May even add some 45 deg. bracing blocks for extra support under the shelf if you really plan to use the bunk.

Eddie

WEST SYSTEM Six10™ Thickened Epoxy Adhesive at West Marine
Thank you so much!

Is your mount centered under the window? So the 3 1/2" deep at center would be center of mount and center of window (or close to it).

I had planned on using the bunk post locking tab height as the "top" of the mount height because in effect the top bunk rests on both. But it is good to have that window opening to mount measure as a double check.

I'll have to check out the local marine store to see if I can pick up a tube of that epoxy at a decent price.

Judging from your measurement my 1 1/2" at one end and 2 3/4" at the other was not "stock"
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:46 PM   #16
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Name: Jeff
Trailer: 1977 13-foot Scamp
Washington
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Before I cut my ugly and rotten bunk mount off last week I took some pictures with a tape measure showing dimensions should I ever want to install a new piece of plywood.

I kind of like the front couch with out the back on. I like the extra width. I may buy some large pillows to provide back support when sitting.

I know some people put the bunk up to use as a shelf. I don't miss it.

I hope these dimensions will be helpful. They are pretty much indentical to what Eddie posted.

Jeff
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:35 PM   #17
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Name: RogerDat
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Originally Posted by Jeff Richardson View Post
Before I cut my ugly and rotten bunk mount off last week I took some pictures with a tape measure showing dimensions should I ever want to install a new piece of plywood.

I kind of like the front couch with out the back on. I like the extra width. I may buy some large pillows to provide back support when sitting.

I know some people put the bunk up to use as a shelf. I don't miss it.

I hope these dimensions will be helpful. They are pretty much indentical to what Eddie posted.

Jeff
Yes thanks, always good to get confirmation. And the pictures clarify something that had been bugging me.

The bunk mount is positioned so that it goes past the right vertical seam. So it is offset to the right relative to the ensolite.

I'm going to go without the bunk for a bit, I would rather have the larger couch/storage spot for clothes containers and such. Will replace the mount eventually but may take the couch out and do some figuring and see what I might want to change first. (should replace screws and check wood of couch mounting anyway).

I'm thinking that I might be able to mount a vertical panel from under the stock bunk mount and build two box seats so I would have a front dinette. Want to look at the scamp swing down table mount to see if I could mount that to vertical panel.

What I'm shooting for is to have it so dinette could drop down and be a couch/bed just as the rear dinette drops and is the bed. I'm thinking that I want the table vertical panel to not prevent bunk attachement or be easily removable. So for wife and I we have table or couch, if the one son with two kids borrows the camper we can just put the bunk in, the daughter with one kid can drop the table and sleep three.

But then sometimes my brilliant ideas turn out to be a PITA so I don't do them.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:08 PM   #18
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2001 Scamp 16 rotten support

I too have the rotten support. As you can see, I had to take the OSB out piece by piece. It left a fiberglass "lip" that will allow me to fit the new piece of 3/4 plywood in the void. Is there a need to bond it to the fiberglass as well as attach with screws?
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:17 PM   #19
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Name: RogerDat
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replacing the front bunk mount

Well the bunk mount is in and I have started fiberglass. I used Bondo Glass to "bed" the edge of the board to the wall and fill in voids, I think the glue suggested would have been easier but would require 3 days to finish off gassing so I went with the Bondo with short glass fibers, have to work fast but it does the job and can have fiberglass applied the next morning.

My next question is how many layers of resin and cloth are needed? Right now I have two un the underside, three on the top side. Started with 4 inch and then reduced each strip by 1 inch in width. 4, then 3, then 2 to stagger the edges.

Just not sure if I have enough layers already or should start back over with 4 inch.

Here is picture of new mount clamped deep clamps from harbor freight $6 were just big enough. I have small blocks cut to space the mount from the window, those are just taped in place until I got the first layer of fiberglass on the bottom edge.

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Old 09-04-2013, 09:22 PM   #20
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Roger, if you EVER think you'll use that upper bunk for a human sleeping solution... I'd think MORE is better. Can you even imagine being the person on the bottom if the upper bunk failed? YEOW!
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:36 PM   #21
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RogerDat, you git that camper back together asap and get over to Algonac !

I think you're going to love that wide deep couch without the bunk. It will be deep enough for comfortable sleeping.
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:25 AM   #22
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Pam - It's not apart, just dusty. Well it's a little apart. But our camping containers are sitting in the garage waiting to go back in and Cheryl has the food containers and cooler in the kitchen (drunk gummy bears in the fridge).

Donna - I doubt any but our youngest grandchild is small enough for the top bunk and as a younger brother myself I fully support his right to fall on top of his older brother in the middle of the night.

I don't want to skimp on the FG and create a problem for someone else down the road but have no idea how much is enough. Or when I get to the point where I'm just wasting resin. Have never seen stock, what was on there was PO work, and not very good at that.
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Old 08-31-2017, 08:45 AM   #23
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Thanks to all who have added to this thread-- it's a great resource as I tackle the same project.

I'm hesitant to use any kind of plywood, OSB, waferboard etc. for this small but structurally important piece. I'm worried that should it ever leak again, we'll be going down the same road twice.

For around $10-$15, I can get a piece of solid pine, poplar or oak -- but I'm also thinking that a piece of PVC (plastic) board might also be an awesome, completely rot-resistant option for roughly the same price. Any thoughts on the PVC to fiberglass bond, or its suitability for this application?
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Old 08-31-2017, 12:48 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Forward Look View Post
Thanks to all who have added to this thread-- it's a great resource as I tackle the same project.

I'm hesitant to use any kind of plywood, OSB, waferboard etc. for this small but structurally important piece. I'm worried that should it ever leak again, we'll be going down the same road twice.

For around $10-$15, I can get a piece of solid pine, poplar or oak -- but I'm also thinking that a piece of PVC (plastic) board might also be an awesome, completely rot-resistant option for roughly the same price. Any thoughts on the PVC to fiberglass bond, or its suitability for this application?
It took me a while to re-bed the window with butyl tape, and clear the weep holes that prev. owner sealed so that wood was exposed to water several times by window leaks before I finished work (this spring I go the last drip) BUT the plywood is completely coated with fiberglass resin before I installed. Wood can't get wet. End grain three coats, top, bottom a good solid two coats.

Then after installing tabbing it in with fiberglass and resin to attach to camper puts some more fiberglass between wood and outside world. My guess is it wouldn't rot in a bucket of water.

Plywood is generally stronger in most uses than same thickness of solid wood. Grain in each layer of plywood runs opposite ones it is between. Alternating grain lines + glue + massive pressure yield more strength than wood alone. Might consider marine plywood but if all is sealed in fiberglass resin all the extra cost of marine ply buys you is fewer voids and waterproof glue.

Attaching to wall would be biggest headache I would see to non wood solution. With wood you just "tab" strips of FG cloth or matting and resin like tape. Using thickened resin or epoxy as a filler in the wall to wood join. That bonds to the properly prepped wall and the properly prepped wood with a great deal of strength. You walls are attached to the scamp floor with tabbing and it holds until the wood rots out. Which usually take a long time because the wood is coated with fiberglass resin.
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