Scamp bunk mount dimensions & window ?

[RogerDat]

The bunk mount on my scamp 13 is shot. I went to make a template of the original before removing it and it has totally wonky dimensions. One end is half as deep as the other and it's offset in relation to the center of the front window. With a 1" x 2" ensolite patch at one end. That combined with a rather poor saw cut on the hinge side, and the fact that hinge side does not appear to be straight across front makes me think sometime in the last 35 years it may have been re-done by a PO.

Can anyone provide some measurement of how deep their wood mounting shelf is at the center? And if the ends are cut off to equal size. And is it fairly centered on the front window?

I'm going out in the morning to do some more checking of the distance off the front wall with a plumb level but to my eye the thing does not appear to run straight across the front. With the offset being away from the side with the end cut short and the patched ensolite. I really looks as if the wood shape would be "even" if it was 2 inches longer and filled the patched ensolite area.

On the windows do the prop open windows just pull out sideways if the screw in the center of the hinge is removed? I can just try it but figured it's always good to ask those who may have gone down that road before. Especially since the screw in the center of the hinge is rusted steel which seems a odd choice for "stock" in an aluminum window.

[Roy in TO]

Roger,
How does the rear table attach in the 77 Scamp? I believe the early models were like my boler American where the wood was the same pattern at front and rear windows.
I'm not sure when they changed from the interlocking rails to the hinged table/bed on the rear dinette.

[RogerDat]

Rear table is hinged off of the wall attached with a bar to drop down and metal brackets for tabs on table to lock into when up as a table. I think there is a plywood panel under the ensolite that the hardware screws into.

Front bunk mount is a 1 inch thick plywood shelf tabbed into the fiberglass which the top bunk hinges screw into.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Front bunk mount is a 1 inch thick plywood shelf tabbed into the fiberglass which the top bunk hinges screw into.

That might be the key to determining if it was a previous mod. The only other place I might think that Scamp used plywood rather than OSB might be where the benches are tabbed in.
Maybe another Scamp owner of that era can pipe in.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

That might be the key to determining if it was a previous mod. The only other place I might think that Scamp used plywood rather than OSB might be where the benches are tabbed in.
Maybe another Scamp owner of that era can pipe in.

Scamp wasn't using OSB in 1977. In fact OSB was first produced in 1978 as a derivative of waferboard. The 1977 Scamp would be originally made using plywood.

[Roy in TO]

Good man Floyd!
I know my boler American that Evelands started with - had a plywood floor, plywood bench supports and press wood (wafer board?) at the front and rear windows.
Narrowing this info down will help people confirm the years of trailers or mods. At one time I had a pretty good idea by the windows on Scamps.

[RogerDat]

Ok it's official that is one crooked bunk mount. Mount is 1 1/2 inches from wall for one hinge, 2 1/2 for the other. One end is over an inch deeper than the other end. I think what I am really looking for is:

1. How deep is mount at hinge supposed to be. (distance from wall to mount edge)
2. How far from side wall is each hinge supposed to be. (distance from closest side wall in straight line)

Given those two I can make bunk mount that is even and centered that will allow mounting hinges so bunk drops correctly as couch back and comes out over bunk support poles.

Mount is 1/2 inch thick, I expected 3/4 or 1 inch and wonder if 1/2 is stock or just what PO had around.

If anyone knows the height of bunk mount above couch fiberglass seat that would be good too. I can use bunk supports and work it out but nice to have something to check my calculations against.

[RogerDat]

Overview image: note the offset to the right and the narrowing from right to left. As well as almost no FG tabbing connected to wood on the top, almost all of the connection was on the bottom. In the close ups you can see the wood does not touch the wall at several locations. Might even spot the "wandering" saw cut along the front edge.



This is close up of left side:


This is close up of right side: Note the absence of any FG actually attached to wood. This was how it was I removed nothing but the ensolite from the wood.

[RogerDat]

This is a cardboard template being made, if anyone can provide the dimensions for hinge depth and distance from wall I can use them to establish center and cut down straight side of template to that depth.

What your seeing is an air hose being used to follow the curve of the trailer so I can take a straight squared piece of cardboard and trace the hose to reproduce the matching curve. Have to do a couple of passes, the first one only gets the corners of the template rounded enough to move cardboard closer to the wall so hose will bridge the gap. I did this before I removed the existing mount so I would have something to rest it on and clamp to.

[Roy in TO]

Roger,

Great idea using a hose to make a template!!! I have to remember that one.
All you really need is a measurement of the depth from the center of the window.
With your skills I'm confident you know how to center and square the rest.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

Roger,
Great idea using a hose to make a template!!! I have to remember that one.
All you really need is a measurement of the depth from the center of the window.
With your skills I'm confident you know how to center and square the rest.

Thank you, I posted that picture in hopes it might be of use to someone sometime.

Are the window locations fairly consistent? That is one reason I was thinking I should use the hinge depth, but your probably right I could work from depth at center of window.

In the earlier pictures you can see how the old mount was way offset to the right of the center of the window.

I tentatively plan to have new mount span from seam to seam of the ensolite piece under the window. Probably taking the piece of ensolite that was on the old bunk mount and patching the right side. I'll just paint the new mount white after tabbing in or cover with some sort of white panel from the home improvement store.

Hoping that by laying a piece of ensolite bigger than the area to be patched over the wall and cutting both patch and wall ensolite at same time my patch will have seams that are very thin. Works pretty good for carpet patches. May blend in with a bit of caulk or touch up the black edges with white paint. Wonder if anyone else has tried this and if it worked ok?

Or I could just run the new mount to cover the whole "slot", still have to paint it, no ensolite to cover it with since it will certainly NOT match the piece I took off the old mount.

Welcome any opinions on fit to ensolite cut or center on window and patch "extra" slot in the ensolite. Of course in the end I will do it the way DW thinks is best.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Are the window locations fairly consistent?

From year to year and plant to plant, perhaps, there is no guarentee. Are all women or men the same?

Originally Posted by RogerDat

That is one reason I was thinking I should use the hinge depth

As I said before, you are a smart man. Someone once told me, measure twice, cut once. And when I messed it up, they always said: Don't worry only one side is too long (or short).

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Welcome any opinions on fit to ensolite cut or center on window and patch "extra" slot in the ensolite.

Now is a good time to tinker with tests. The location should be hidden when the bunk is both up and down during normal use. My gut says, grab a small piece from behind a cabinet, give somewhere between 1/8 and 3/8" gap and try to level the height. latex caulk. wet soapy sponge dap to match texture and wait for it to set.

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Of course in the end I will do it the way DW thinks is best

I wish I learnt that 30 years ago and can still accept it today.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

....Now is a good time to tinker with tests. The location should be hidden when the bunk is both up and down during normal use. My gut says, grab a small piece from behind a cabinet, give somewhere between 1/8 and 3/8" gap and try to level the height. latex caulk. wet soapy sponge dap to match texture and wait for it to set.
.....

I may just try that, right now I have the original off and since it's just us two I figured can do without couch back for a bit and still use camper. Can put some leftover seam tape on the empty slot to "make pretty" for the time being.

Hopefully someone with a Scamp 13 will post their bunk mount measurements or I'll have to see if someone at the Michigan rally in Sept has one I can measure.

[Eddie Longest]

Roger
I am working on a mid 80's 13 and it is pulled apart and easy for me to measure.
The wood is 1/2" covered with ensolite. I think I would replace with 3/4" and just paint it white when finished.
41 1/8" wide.
2" deep on each end.
3 1/2 deep in center.
3 3/4" from top of board to fiberglass window opening.
31 3/8 between the inside of the hinges.

I would use West Sys. Six 10 epoxy filler to first attach the wood to the wall and fill gaps. ( Comes in a calk gun tube.) Then glass in with 2" glass tape. May even add some 45 deg. bracing blocks for extra support under the shelf if you really plan to use the bunk.

Eddie

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=50225