scamp dinette brackets - Fiberglass RV

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Old 06-06-2013, 05:02 PM   #1
Name: Jan
Trailer: '96 Scamp 5th Wheel
Posts: 95
scamp dinette brackets

The bracket that holds the table up on my 5er is a little wobbly. We pulled the screws out and it looks like water has been down there - the screws look rusty. Does anybody know how that is put together? It looks like there is a peice of wood behind the rat fur but i'm wondering how it is fastened in. I see two screws or rivets at the back by the spare tire and am wondering if that is what hold the board there or is it glued or glassed in. Trying to figure out a possible fix. Thanks

The Gypsy Wagon
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:30 PM   #2
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: Casita Indy.
Posts: 1,406
The two outside screws by the spare hold the plywood in place. Then the plywood is glassed in all around its edges when the trailer is built. Sometimes you can shift the table brackets around and find good wood. If not expose the board and cut it out with a multi-tool then screw in a reglass in a new board and recover.
You need to find out how the water got to the board. Bad window seal, through the two outside screw holes or the belly band seal behind the board.
Good luck

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Old 06-06-2013, 09:41 PM   #3
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Name: Ryan
Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16- side bath
Posts: 182
Eddie gave great advice if the wood is in fact water logged and rotten--- but I wouldn't necessarily assume that because the screws are rusty that water got in the wood.
My Scamp is old, '79, yet it seems to have had very little water entry over the years. Nevertheless nearly every screw head and shaft in there were pretty rusty. The condensation alone can cause a lot of rusting over the years. My table brackets were rusty, I replaced them and clearcoated the new ones to prevent this.

Try some slightly larger diameter stainless steel screw in place of the rusty ones. You might be lucky and have nothing more than rusted screws.
If the new screws won't hold well, then glue some wooden toothpicks into the old holes and try again. If that still won't work then it is likely that the wood in there is in fact rotten/wet.
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:50 PM   #4
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 2,866
I would sooo try toothpicks and glue to fill the hole and replace the screw before contemplating a wood replacement.

My screws are also rusted in places I'm pretty sure never got wet, just condensation and time. Like they say rust never sleeps.
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:50 AM   #5
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Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Posts: 1,610
I had to replace mine. The board is held in by those two little screws and fiberglass. Mine is now held in by 2 #8 screws for the license plate light, 4 #12 screws for the license plate bracket, 2 #8 screws where the factory screws were, and 2 #8 screws on the top of the board, to mirror the factory ones.

My seam was leaking behind the board. The caulking on top of the belly band was bad, and let water go behind it, then through a gap in the fiberglass where the two halves were joined.

I put a 3" strip of 3/4" down the center first, as the gap left by the curved back of the camper came to 3/4".

All the screws holding it.

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Old 06-07-2013, 06:13 PM   #6
Name: Jan
Trailer: '96 Scamp 5th Wheel
Posts: 95
I will cross my fingers on toothpicks and glue but it feels pretty mushy everywhere. I'm thinking I see a full replacement job in myfuture - after summer travels. I will have to be veeerrry careful traveling. Thanks for the feedback - now I know what I'm facing.
The Gypsy Wagon
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:38 PM   #7
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Posts: 23,916
Put the table down during travel. Only put it up in dinette mode when you need it for dining. That's a good place to start.

Best of luck!
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:12 PM   #8
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Name: Ted
Trailer: (Dark side)Coachman
Glade Valley, North Carolina
Posts: 967
All good advice. Nothing much else to say. I love this forum.
“I have tried to live my life so that my family would love me and my friends would respect me. The others can do whatever the Hell they please!” —John Wayne
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:33 PM   #9
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: 1995 Scamp 13
Posts: 260
Good thing about polyurethane glue is that moisture helps it to cure. When I use it on chair legs, I dampen the wood before gluing. The glue foams up to fill gaps, so unless the plywood is totally squiffed, the glue should either find solid wood to bond to or form a small plug to hold itself.
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Old 09-06-2014, 06:14 AM   #10
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Name: Wendy Lee
Trailer: Scamp 13' Standard
New York
Posts: 991
Was doing a search and came across this thread. Although over a year old now, I'm hoping that all of you who posted will get notifications . If not, I'll PM several of you. I recently posted regarding a leak along the rear trailer wall/floor area, directly in between the two bench seats where the water line runs. If you will, it is directly below the rear slider window. Window seal/weep holes are fine, water lines don't I started investigating snap caps last night and rivets.

Noticed that the two snap caps on either side of the spare tire had screws in them, and i didn't know if this was "normal" or not. As I still cannot find my leak, I thought these looked fishy. My trailer had been in an accident and during this, the scamp table shifted and snapped, the the PO said he had to put in new screws on the inside for the table bracket. So...I'm thinking...

Went outside and noticed the two snap caps on either side of the spare had wood screws in them. The one on the right of the spare is corroded and spinning. In lieu of being able to uncover this leak so far, I thought perhaps I should try replacing the one corroded and spinning screw, if nothing else. May be my leak source, as that certainly is where I'm noticing water. Not alot; just what you can dab up on a paper towel where FG wall meets floor.

Should l use #8 SS screws (I assume that is factory size?) or try a slightly larger one? I've replaced rivets, but these are the first screws I've ever seen in my 2012 13er. When you put the screws in, do you put butyl putty tape around the hole, much like rivets, or do you use some type of glue or sealant as you drive them in? If so, what brand name of glue or sealant would you suggest? I do have butyl, and a tube of proflex sealant here at the house.

Just clutching at straws here as time is running out for this leak. Work overtime a lot, winter is coming, and my weekends are full. I sincerely appreciate your help, and again, I'll PM all who posted if for some reason you can't get notifications for new posts to old threads.


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