Scamp Entry Door Curve? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-24-2010, 12:44 PM   #1
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My 1986 Scamp has an issue with the bottom of the door not sealing, leaving about a 2"gap. Is there a way to put the "curve" back in the door? I'm thinking of making some type of radius that would attach to the inside to reform it?

Thanks
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:41 PM   #2
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I have the same issue on my U-haul. I also had the issue on a '63 Airstream Globetrotter. The aluminum I bent just a little bit. Fiberglass doesn't bend very well. The only other option I have come with is to add weather stripping to the bottom until the gag is minimized. I don't like the idea, but as a temporary fix it might work. Surely someone will give us the cure.
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:59 PM   #3
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I have the same issue on my U-haul. I also had the issue on a '63 Airstream Globetrotter. The aluminum I bent just a little bit. Fiberglass doesn't bend very well. The only other option I have come with is to add weather stripping to the bottom until the gag is minimized. I don't like the idea, but as a temporary fix it might work. Surely someone will give us the cure.
How about using 3/4" square aluminum tubing , this would be about the easiest and quickest way .
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Old 05-24-2010, 08:23 PM   #4
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I seen a while back a real easy quick cure so that rain , bugs etc could not get into the trailer while traveling and also while sitting still..... what he did was put a simple eye bolt down at the bottom of the door facing in on the latch side then he put another eye bolt inside and simply used a rubber bungie from the inside eye hook and then stretched it to the eye hook on the door and that kept it closed for him while traveling...... I know it not a permanent cure but it will sure help until you can come up with something more permanent.
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:21 PM   #5
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact Jr; 1972 Astro (Havasu?)
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Are you sure it's the door and not body sag? There was a thread a bit back about this as related to Bolers.

Body sag
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:00 PM   #6
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A couple of us here on the Forum have contributed extensive posts on rebuilding our doors. In order to get permanent results it's a lot of work, but well worth the effort. I have a PDF to share if you send me a PM.
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:06 PM   #7
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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A 1986... I'm wondering if the brass balls in the hinges are badly worn allowing the door to hang down from the top? How does the door fit against the body... at the top of the door? Does the door actually stick out at the bottom or does it hang down below the body? Believe it or not, the Scamp door does hang below the body even new from the factory. Unfortunately that allows moisture to wick up the door when the trailer is under tow during a rainstorm. Make certain you have the proper gasket along the bottom of the door opening too. Some have had success using a pool noodle with a slit cut to fit along the bottom of the door. Remove the noodle when setup to camp!
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:40 PM   #8
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Trailer: former Boler, now 1980 Trillium 4500
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Quote:
My 1986 Scamp has an issue with the bottom of the door not sealing, leaving about a 2"gap. Is there a way to put the "curve" back in the door? I'm thinking of making some type of radius that would attach to the inside to reform it?

Thanks
Last year I re-curved the fibreglass door in my 74 Boler by cutting horizontal slots part way through and re-fibreglassing. It has worked perfectly and was not too difficult. You can read the whole thread about it here:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...ic=39560&hl=


Good luck,
Rick G
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Old 06-01-2010, 02:41 PM   #9
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A couple of us here on the Forum have contributed extensive posts on rebuilding our doors. In order to get permanent results it's a lot of work, but well worth the effort. I have a PDF to share if you send me a PM.

Thanks Robert, PM sent. Thanks everyone for the ideas! I appreciate it.
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