Scamp escape hatch leak - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-29-2014, 08:49 AM   #1
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Scamp escape hatch leak

Is there a trick to solving the mystery leak. It rained pretty hard yesterday and I had a minor drippy coming from one corner of the escape hatch. ..darn
I thought we did so good with the install. We used the Bytle/putty tape and then siliconed the edges on the rooftop checked and can't see any problems with the silicone...
Do I just silicone the whole thing again?
Maybe there's a pinhole somewhere?
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:05 AM   #2
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Not sure of your situation? Was this a pre-existing hole that you dropped a new escape hatch into? Sure unit is sitting nice and square in hole? Any holes or major cracks in FG that you can see around the escape area? Did you use long enough rivets? If they're too short they'll "pop" and not sit tight in hole. Had that happen to me, even when I used the correct length that scamp recommended. Had to go to different length rivet and then called scamp about it. They said varying thicknesses in roof FG can cause this. Rivet leaked till I corrected this. I'm no expert, just tossing thoughts your way for exploration.


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Old 07-29-2014, 09:13 AM   #3
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Ohhh....good info.
My Scamp is an 1983. I bought it with a tarp covering a hole in the roof and pieces of an old huge roof mountable ac on the bed inside.... there were puddles of dried and dirty glue stuff on the rooftop. I cleaned up the rooftop and had neighbors help me install a new escape hatch. It was challenging because the holes were odd sizes and we patched the biggest ones. I used the rivets from the Scamp factory. They are holding although the roof had a sag that has pulled up with support and the installation. I will recheck the rivets...since I'm becoming the neighborhood rivet guru...lol

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Old 07-29-2014, 09:26 AM   #4
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Are you sure its not condensation dripping down from the inside?
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:58 AM   #5
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Well Stevebaz I'm not thinking so because I am not sleeping in there yet. I checked after the storm not during. ..I may wait a little so I can see whats really happening.
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Old 08-16-2014, 07:40 AM   #6
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Hey SumplyLesa, haven't heard from you with the escape hatch leak. Did you locate the source of the leak and repair yet? If so, I hope all went well!


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Old 08-16-2014, 12:54 PM   #7
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Hey Campy! So just yesterday we figured out the problem. The PO had installed and then removed an old heavy AC unit. There were many screw and bolt holes. I hired a neighborhood handyman to fiberglass the holes. He didn't mix the FG correctly and it cracked and leaked. Now mind you that part of my rooftop is very thin original FG to start with. It's only 1/8" or less thickness. Because of the flexible surface and my budget I think we are going to (ducking to dodge upcoming comments) re fiberglass patch the holes and then mask off and paint only that flexible rooftop area with snow coat.
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:55 PM   #8
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I'm proud of my rivet replacements that are water tight. (Happy dance)
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Old 08-16-2014, 03:35 PM   #9
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Nice Job
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Old 08-16-2014, 07:28 PM   #10
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Hey girl,

You gotcha do watchoo got to do. I would be the last person to beat you up about how you handle problems. When funds are tight, you handle things the best you can!

You are to be commended for your problem solving abilities and love for your trailer to make her the best you can. And great job with the riveting! Gives you a tremendous feeling of accomplishment doesn't it?

Kudos and much future enjoyment and success,

Wendy


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Old 08-17-2014, 06:18 AM   #11
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I hope you used the name 'Silicone' as a generic reference to caulk. Silly-cone, as I refer to it, is not recommended at all for any fiberglass caulking. You're probably fine on your roof because the butyl should be the workhorse in stopping any leaks.
Proflex is one of the recommended caulks to use, but there are also other caulks to choose from. Just don't use anything with silicone in it. It has a high failure rate, can't be painted, and leaves an invisible residue that other caulks won't properly adhere to.

I'm glad to hear that your hatch installation was successful! You're going to be a Happy, Dry Camper !
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Old 08-17-2014, 01:58 PM   #12
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Glad to hear that you figured out the cause.

Pam is right. Egg owners don't let egg owners use silly-cone. It is great for some things, but terrible on fiberglass.
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Old 08-18-2014, 02:20 AM   #13
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Wow, I'm suprised that Donna didn't feel the silicone word mentioned here and not jump in . No worries Donna, you have an army spreading the word .
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:19 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
Wow, I'm suprised that Donna didn't feel the silicone word mentioned here and not jump in . No worries Donna, you have an army spreading the word .
I've been reading and paying attention. Y'all are doing great spreading the word. And not to backtrack, but silicone isn't a bad thing used on the interior. THERE it's not expected to seal anything from the weather. But exterior , not ever.
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:33 AM   #15
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So why does Scamp use it? My windows outside are all sealed with silicone. No changes from prior owner. I notice that the silicone is peeling in the FG itself, Ok on window frames. I've heard people mention pro flex sealant.

My trailer is a 2012, no leaks. Does one get rid if that with a razor blade scraper now, or let sleeping dogs lie?


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Old 08-18-2014, 05:37 AM   #16
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Wendy, Scamp isn't the only all molded towble manufacturer to use it. Casita uses it by the boatload. All I can say is it's cheap and typically provides a leak-free environment during the time of warranty. But as an asset OWNER, we're all looking for something that works longer term. The biggest problem is folks who blob more silicone over the top of old silicone and that can turn a temporary solution into a permanent problem.

As an aside, my 1988 16' Scamp doesn't have silicone skimming the windows from the factory and I'm GLAD.
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:44 AM   #17
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They must have went the cheap and cheerful route after 88'! For future reference, I'll try pro flex. Does it come in clear? Aside from razoring off trailer and up to and over edge if window frame, do you need to dig the blade deeply into little teeny space between frame and FG?


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Old 08-18-2014, 07:33 AM   #18
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Wendy, if your windows aren't leaking... leave them alone. There will come a time you'll need to remove all the silicone. The best thing (IMHO) is a plastic knife. Never metal as you may accidental gouge the gelcoat. To get the window out, after you've gotten as much silicone off as possible, take a long piece of week wacker line, twist two sticks.. one over each end and do the garrote method (saw through the silicone between the body and window frame). Weed wacker line won't hurt the gelcoat.
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:54 AM   #19
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Thanks Donna. But I don't actually have to take window OUT right? Just to get silicone out from that space?

Ok, weed wackier line, tied to two sticks or aluminum tubes and saw away, top sides bottom. Then the proflex.

What do you do to keep all this great info at your fingertips? I was copy pasting threads into an ms word doc, but it's miles of pages long now!

Cheers,
Wendy


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