Scamp fan - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-21-2015, 11:16 PM   #15
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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You say through all of this it's still reading 12.3 v. Does "through all of this" mean WHILE you have lights on AND the fan trying to run? OR, afterwards and there's nothing running and the "idle" voltage is 12.3?

No offense, but I'd REALLY suggest that if you're not familiar/use to a volt/ohm meter and doing some serious trouble-shooting, to take this to a professional before you do some SERIOUS AND expensive damage to your trailer!

Backwards battery hookup?? From what I've read, it sure sounds possible!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Darilyn View Post
The roof fan in my 13 foot scamp will only run when the camper is plugged into external power source (and runs perfectly fine). The deep-cell battery is brand-new and fully charged. And when I do try to turn on the fan, all the lights dim or turn off and the fan still doesn't run. However, through all this the voltage meter still reads 12.3.

Any suggestions, fellow fiberglassers? Please help. It's prime this camping season and it's getting pretty warm.

Tx
Lady D


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Old 06-22-2015, 04:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
There is one thing you can check easily. Check the fuse at the battery. The fuse could be ok but the contacts corroded.

FYI I had that happen to me. The furnace fan wouldn't run on battery. But I'm never connected to shore power.
But the lights still work inside?
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
You say through all of this it's still reading 12.3 v. Does "through all of this" mean WHILE you have lights on AND the fan trying to run? OR, afterwards and there's nothing running and the "idle" voltage is 12.3?

No offense, but I'd REALLY suggest that if you're not familiar/use to a volt/ohm meter and doing some serious trouble-shooting, to take this to a professional before you do some SERIOUS AND expensive damage to your trailer!

Backwards battery hookup?? From what I've read, it sure sounds possible!
No offense taken.

The meter just plugs into the 12.v outlet and gives a digital read out. No skills required.


And yes, it reads 12.3 before anything is on, after lights are turned on, and after fan is turned on and didn't run.
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:27 PM   #18
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Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
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If it's a freshly charged battery and it immediately reads 12.3, then something else is seriously eating your power BEFORE you turn anything on on the battery side.

You need a meter to do this...but you need to disconnect the battery; charge it externally; test it with a meter BEFORE attaching the wires. Coming off the charger fresh, it should read somewhere above 13volts. Then attach the wires and immediately check the voltage again (NOTHING turned on inside at this point). If the voltage drops as you say (12.3), then you've got something serious going on in the camper and you will have to trace it starting at the battery. OR...you may want to take the battery in for a defect. Start with the simple and easily-overlooked things....

But what EVER you do....try to notice and see if you smell anything getting hot. If you DO, immediately disconnect the battery!! To me, this is a very touchy situation you have....if it's not the battery.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Darilyn View Post
No offense taken.

The meter just plugs into the 12.v outlet and gives a digital read out. No skills required.


And yes, it reads 12.3 before anything is on, after lights are turned on, and after fan is turned on and didn't run.
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:27 PM   #19
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Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Originally Posted by Lady Darilyn View Post
But the lights still work inside?
Perhaps.. what many in this thread are suggesting is that there could be a point of high resistance in the wiring. This would not show up with a light load on the battery (a few lights for example) but would cause the power to drop out if a large load was turned on (such as a fan).
The cause could be a bad connection that was made worse by vibration, corrosion, or something else.

Many have warned of dire consequences. I would feel confident troubleshooting this if I had my hands on the trailer but the cautions do have some merit. High resistance is what makes the wires in your toaster glow red hot, and sometimes burn the bread. The same thing can happen on the trailer. And there is A LOT of energy in the battery, it is to be respected.
You can certainly disconnect the battery and then do a visual inspection of the connections. perhaps something will look bad / burned. Maybe even tug on the wires at the connections and see if they come apart. With the battery unhooked and no shore power its safe. Beyond that, yes I agree to get someone who is knowledgeable enough to be safe getting this fixed. And soon too, I hope.. we have all made our guesses and are looking to win the prize for being right.

Yes, as Darral said, with a regular multi-meter.. check the battery voltage AT the battery with it charged and disconnected. My guess is still a bad battery or connection to it.
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:33 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Lady Darilyn View Post
But the lights still work inside?

The light don't draw enough current to be adversely affected. It's an easy check. Simply remove the top of the battery box and remove the fuse from the holder. You'll know very rapidly if it's corroded.
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:38 PM   #21
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Another thing... I've looked back through the posts. We dont know how old this Scamp is??
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:45 PM   #22
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Many people seem to think at because the electrical system is only 12 volts it's ok to mess with. Automobiles also have a 12 volt electrical system. Try a google search on "automobile recalls for electrical fires".
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:46 PM   #23
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Another thing... I've looked back through the posts. We dont know how old this Scamp is??

Good point Darral. Mine was only 5 or 6 years old when a similar thing happened.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:35 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
Good point Darral. Mine was only 5 or 6 years old when a similar thing happened.
Sorry guys. It's a 2010 13'. So, eerily similar to the '5 or 6 years' that Byron mentioned.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:39 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Beyond that, yes I agree to get someone who is knowledgeable enough to be safe getting this fixed. And soon too, I hope.. we have all made our guesses and are looking to win the prize for being right.
.
You all get a prize for being so knowledgeable and helpful...

If I were to take it to a 'professional' would that be an RV dealer or...?
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:04 PM   #26
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Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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If you can find a reputable LOCAL RV shop, I'd rather trust them than a Camping World. PLEASE check out the battery before taking it in if you can...just in case. An Autozone or some place like that will check it for free...or maybe even where you just bought it. I believe you said it was new.

For what it's worth? Mine TOO is a 2010 13' Standard Scamp. I recently just got back from a trip...turned on the fan and it wasnt up to speed; turned on 3 or 4 incandescent 12v lights and brought them all to their "knees". And I had just got back with the 12v hooked up and it was fully charged from the tow vehicle! But yes, they work fine on 120v. (Converter). So...why is mine doing this?

**My battery is going bad as it's the original and is now going on 6 yo**.

We may not could fix it for you but please let us know what it was. We'll definitely be all eyes when you do I'm like some of the others...I sure wish that rascal of yers was sitting in my driveway right now!! Whewweee... Talking about takin on a challenge!!
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:27 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
If it's a freshly charged battery and it immediately reads 12.3, then something else is seriously eating your power BEFORE you turn anything on on the battery side. Not necessarily - the battery could have problems.



Coming off the charger fresh, it should read somewhere above 13volts.

Please don't ever judge a battery by what the voltage is fresh off a charger. That 'surface' charge is a useless reading on any battery. Put a small load, let's say one light or any load on the battery for 15 seconds, then turn that load off - make sure all loads are off by disconnecting the negative lead off the battery. Now read the battery voltage with a DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter). This will be a way more accurate reading. If the reading is over 12.6 volts you have a 'sulphated' battery and it's junk. If your reading in less that 12.2 volts then your battery is most likely junk. A reading of 12.3 to 12.6 is in the normal range. From there a qualified person needs to perform a load test on the battery. A perfectly brand new battery, fully charged, and not surface charged should only read 12.6 volts maximum. You can only create 2.1 volts per cell if the battery is not sulphated. Do the math.
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:32 PM   #28
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Please don't ever judge a battery by what the voltage is fresh off a charger. That 'surface' charge is a useless reading ....
This is good advice.. check a battery by doing a load test and (if its not the sealed type), a hydrometer check.
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