Scamp Floor Replacement - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 02-25-2003, 09:24 AM   #15
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Lifting a Boler off of frame

I lift Boler bodies off of the frame by
using an automotive lift. Use wood blocks on the lift arms
up to the underside on the strongest ribs underneath the body.
The 4 lift points must be outside of the frame rails.
The biggest challange in getting the body off is
if you are not removing the refrig. The body is held on with
hardened sheet metal screws.
There is one of these located under
the ref. and closet and also a couple of other tight spots.
Cut these with a thin (1/32) abrasive wheel between the frame and body.
You have to jack up the body and work the
wheel into the slight gap. Once you have the body free,
the lift is raised until the frame is cleared and you can
roll the frame out. This could be done by alternating a couple of floor jacks,
but it would take longer. It takes about 3 hours to get the body off.
When reattaching the body to the frame, I use 3/8 U-bolts and seal them up.
This allows a 3' long 1" square steel tube to be added in the dinette
storage wells to strengthen the rear of the trailer.
Now you can add that bike rack and fill up the water tank
without fear of the rear frame sagging.
I have some pictures somewhere but they are in a 35mm camera. Maybe in
a couple of months I'll have them developed and scanned in.
Good luck,
Rick D.

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Old 02-25-2003, 10:41 AM   #16
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Just a little side note. I wouldn't recommend using biscuits to join together plank flooring, or sheet flooring, either, for that matter. While biscuits are great for cabinetry, they are still only just compressed wood fuzz. The vibration and twisting associated with rolling down the road, not to mention walking on them, can cause them to break. Now, there are some plastic or other material biscuits on the market, but I have no experience with them to comment. Paul

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Old 02-25-2003, 07:12 PM   #17
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Scamp floor replacment


Oh how I know the plight your in. When I purchased my Scamp the evident floor damage was only the start. The captain of the Titanic probably thought much the same about ice. All floor sections within my unit have been replaced. You are on a good start with fiberglassed exterior or marine plywood. I would suggest glassing both sides with one layer of either 4 0r 6 oz. cloth and two applicatons of resin, it is very important to resin coat the edges completely. For any plumbing or wiring holes over drill the hole, tape the bottom of hole and fill with resin, allow to cure and then drill the correct size hole through the resin filling, run pipe or wire and then seal with a poly built silicone sealant. This method will prevent end grain water problems. I have not found an easy method of removeing the floor panels other than a complete strip of interior components and the glass shell from the frame and then remove the damaged flooring. The statment about removing the bathroom enclosure is dear to my heart. I had to approach mine as if it were a rubix cube in realationship to the door opening. Those watching were roundly entertained by my attempts and final success, now I only have to remember how to reverse the process. It is important to measure the old flooring sections from as many directions as possible before destroying or removing.. I found that when time came to bond the trailer shell to the new floor that the alignment of frame and body openings in the shell was only the first step. I then had to measure against the frame and secure the wheel wells for correct fit to the new floor pieces. I glass tabbed both upper and lower surfasces of the new floor to the shell. The bottom tabbing was first, then thickened fill between floor and shell to fill any gaps then the upper tabbing was applied.

The advice, given by others, of promptly finding any leaks is important. Water migrates along strange paths in fierglass structures. The recognition of a leak is the time to look for the source. i have raced offshore sailboats for to many years now and have often been bedeviled by a leak over my bunk. The path water often takes seems to defy gravity. With all the flexing our trailers are exposed to in transit check all seams and openings with a careful eye. Earlier threads spoke of sealant around windows appearing satisfactory yet when tested with a probe was found to have lost its' bond to the fiberglass surface and was allowing water past.

Good luck on your project, send your pictures and questions we all like to see the accomplishments others bring forth, Fx.
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Old 03-04-2003, 10:01 PM   #18
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Lower floor partial replacement

Because the former owner paid no attention to maintenance, much of the original OSB floor was rotten. I already replaced the rear deck and the section under the water heater (over the right rear tire), but I later discovered that the back portion of the lowermost floor was rotten as well, making the inside of the trailer smell musty in addition to being springy and weak.

I completely removed a 45-1/2" x 44-3/4" rear section, which left a floor seam right in the middle of a cross brace piece of angle steel. Structurally, this should work fine, as the steel cross piece will support the seam and prevent flexing.

<img src=>

I cut the old floor out and trimmed the end of the remaining floor with a straightedge and a razor knife, since the space would not allow a circular saw. The OSB, being as flimsy as it is, cuts easily with a razor knife.

<img src=>

Next, I fit a single piece of 3/4" plywood to fit the opening. It was necessary to notch the rear corner to be able to fit it in by angling it underneath the bathroom/shower enclosure . This barely fits, but it will go in. The piece fits in the doorway and is angled in under the shower enclosure, then slid toward the rear of the trailer. It is tight, but it works.
<img src=>

The overhang of the shower enclosure appears as follows:

<img src=>
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Old 03-06-2003, 07:45 AM   #19
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Steve, very ingenious. I think that should work great with it all treated and sealed. course I've never done it, but it's logical.

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