Scamp front floor replacement couch removal - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-24-2014, 03:39 PM   #15
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Roger, use Acetone to clean the fiberglass!
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:51 PM   #16
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Roger, use Acetone to clean the fiberglass!
Thanks. I was reminded of that when I went to the shelf with the fiberglass and saw a quart of acetone. Good to have your correction in this thread.

Picked up a quart of Bondo Jelled FG, now to read directions and check weather to make sure no rain is forecast.

Further checking online turns up Bond Jelled FG Resin is just regular Bondo resin with chopped FG in it. BUMMER wasted trip! Plus trip to take it back.
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:29 PM   #17
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Sucks what a few small holes in the right place will do. At least the leak point is an easy fix.
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:10 PM   #18
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Sucks what a few small holes in the right place will do. At least the leak point is an easy fix.
Yes it does not take much of a leak over a period of time to add up to some real damage. I am fortunate the rest of the floor looks good.

It was pretty clear there were grinder marks from a small wheel on the leak that looked like what you would get from a dremel. I'm guessing a prev. owner spread the seam a little and tried a repair. Since I have the couch out I'm able to loosen the ensolite from the couch up to the leak and have much better access.

Still as Donna says I am building memories, and gaining new skills.

Thanks to a PM from Eddy Longest I'm going to learn how to make fiberglass "Peanut Butter" to rebuild that belly seam.

How to make Peanut butter (thickened resin) - YouTube
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Old 08-25-2014, 04:38 PM   #19
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I picked up 3/4 oz. mat for my shell to floor tabbing. But was surprised that the package said for polyester and epoxy. I thought most mat did not work with epoxy.

Also picked up some West Marine #405 silica filler (filleting blend) to make thickened resin for the belly band seam repair. Was not able to get the 1/4 inch chopped strand used in the video at this West Marine. Will try a different store.
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Old 08-25-2014, 04:52 PM   #20
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Roger, use your scissors and cut your own.
Take a piece of mat and cut it up the way you want it.
Same as what you would buy.
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:09 PM   #21
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Roger, use your scissors and cut your own.
Take a piece of mat and cut it up the way you want it.
Same as what you would buy.

Just cut 1/4 strips and shred to get some chopped fibers?
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:52 PM   #22
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Cut it the way you want to use it. You can pull it apart into strands.
Save you a trip, time and money.
Same stuff.
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Old 08-25-2014, 06:17 PM   #23
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Cut it the way you want to use it. You can pull it apart into strands.
Save you a trip, time and money.
Same stuff.
Thanks. Good to know, I had to buy a sheet of that matting that should be way more than I need for the job at hand. 3 x 5 foot piece to do about 125 inch seam approx. 4 inches wide.
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:32 PM   #24
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That's the same kind of leak that got my floor.

On the floor tab, I used fiberglass cloth, and just slit it in the sharp corners. Worked fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:11 PM   #25
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I mixed up a batch of resin and applied that to the seam, held it in place with a piece of aluminum foil. After forcing the resin back into the crack with a brush I laid the foil over the top and pressed it in with my finger.

We had a bad storm today 60+ mph wind gusts and 3 inches of rain. Nothing came through the belly seam.

I sanded that first coat tonight and now that I have the silica and mat I cut up some fiber from the mat and made a batch of stiffened resin. Applied the same way, with foil. This was to fill in the depression and give the seam some strength.

Front window frame leak has been fixed. I have a tiny leak where the rubber "D" seal along the top of the opening window has come unstuck.

For those not familiar with these old style Scamp windows they have an aluminum frame riveted to the shell, the part of the window that opens hinges at the top and has prop arms to hold it up in the open position. The D seal goes between the aluminum frame of the panel that opens and the window frame attached to the shell. The seal gets squished between them when the window is pulled in and latched.

My seal just needs to be put back where it belongs with a little adhesive.

I also have silicon caulk glazing on one window that no longer is adhering to the Plexiglas so that window allows water into the window frame. Rains hard enough and the frame can't drain fast enough so it overflows to the inside. Todays hard rain left a spot about 1/2 the size of a dollar bill on a bench seat. Have the silicon to re-caulk that.

Really need to try and locate the actual glazing strip that locked the Plexiglas into the frame and sealed it. But will caulk for now.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:33 PM   #26
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Floor is out! Hmmm what did I learn?
Oscillating tool is just the ticket. Buy the wood/steel blades. Needed both a large curved blade and short straight one as was suggested. Curved is better for the long cuts but the straight is good for the tight spots.

Had to cut some FG tabbing from underneath to get the floor to release.

Had to use a 4 inch grinder to grind the screw heads off. Used the oscillating tool to cut some of the wood away from the screws so there was less smoke from the heat of grinding the screw heads. Definitely need the door open.

With floor out I can move the door frame without using much force to true it up. Tonight am going to get the wood brace made for the bottom of the door so it will be ready to attach with tabbing in the morning.

Plan is to grind off the screw shafts, wire brush the frame for painting. And the FG to be ready for fresh tabbing. Then set the door brace piece and while that fiberglass sets paint the frame.
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:16 PM   #27
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Roger
Three notes. If you hold a shop-vac hose next to your multi- tool blades while cutting it will catch most of your fiberglass dust. Before tabbing use a twisted wire brush on a 4/4.5 " grinder to remove the old glue and rough up the wall where you plan to attach the tabbing to the wall. An abrasive wheel will cut through the wall before you realize it. Cover up everything you can because this really makes a big mess. Paint the frame before you start putting things back together I have seen frames rust through on top under the wood especially under the rotted damp wood.
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:35 PM   #28
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Well I have the bottom door brace replaced. Was able to figure out a way to pull the door hinge side straight in to true up the bottom of the door opening which was about 1/2 inch wider than the top.

In the picture there is a small C clamp on the wood shelf that supports the couch and a deep C clamp on the floor in the door way. Between the two is a loop of rope that by twisting with a wood bar draws the rope tighter.

By running a rope over the 2 x 6 cut the same height as the couch shelf it turned the downward pull to the clamp on the floor into straight across pull.



Approach comes from two farm techniques. Loop of wire with a wood bar twisted to tighten is how fence posts are drawn tight to the next post. The 2 x 6 "pole" is a variation of pulling a stump. You use a pole under the chain to turn the straight line horizontal pull of a tractor into pulling up on the stump to lift it out of the ground.

When trying to solve a problem it always helps to channel your inner redneck. And have a good supply of C clamps.
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