Scamp lights - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-29-2018, 07:33 PM   #1
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Name: Janis
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Scamp lights

13 ft scamp lights were working but now, not working.Nothing works from the car back. I followed e trader suggestions, still nothing, fuses good. None of the running lights, stop, tail, or blinker working. Changed 7 pin male connector as it was rusted. In CSR manual operation of controller, I have power. Please help.
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Old 12-29-2018, 08:49 PM   #2
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If everything stopped working when the 7 pin connector was replaced, then one possibility is that wires were attached to the wrong pins. (EDIT: Disregard the link that I posted.)
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Old 12-29-2018, 08:58 PM   #3
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Check your ground.
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Old 12-29-2018, 09:39 PM   #4
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If You can... always start by hooking up to another known good Tow Vehicle.
This will either convict or be exculpatory for your TV.


As has already been said, when nothing works it is usually the ground.
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Old 12-31-2018, 12:29 PM   #5
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Scamp lights

Many thanks for all your responses and I've tried all of them...still can't get lights to work😞.
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:34 PM   #6
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Janis, many tow vehicles have one or more fuses or relays dedicated to trailer towing. Check your owner's manual for those. In my 2011 Ford Escape, they are under the hood, and yes one time I blew the trailer fuse under the hood while towing a rental trailer that apparently had a short in the light wiring. The rental trailer lights didn't work and then the next time I towed my trailer, my trailer lights didn't work. Traced the problem to blown towing fuse under the hood.

Also, if you DO find a blown fuse or tripped relay in your tow vehicle, then the replaced 7 blade connector could be the cause. In this case, disassemble the 7 blade connector and look for any frayed wire crossing over between 2 contacts.
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:50 PM   #7
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Whatever you find please post the fix
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Old 12-31-2018, 02:19 PM   #8
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Thanks John, I'm grateful for your info. I will check all of your suggestions...many thanks, I'm hoping for the best��.
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Old 12-31-2018, 02:21 PM   #9
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Ok, I'll definitely post once I check it out.
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Old 12-31-2018, 02:25 PM   #10
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If no blown fuses or tripped relays in the tow vehicle, then get out the meter and check for voltage at the 7 blade connector on the tow vehicle. If that checks out, then remove the backshell on the 7 blade connector on the camper and check that all wires are connected tightly and no wires are touching. If the parking lights are turned on on the tow vehicle, then you should see 12+ volts on the meter when measuring between the tail/running lights blade and the common/ground blade.
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Old 12-31-2018, 06:39 PM   #11
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Does your Scamp have a battery that powers interior lights when not connected to shore power? If so, you are in luck.

Disconnect from your tow vehicle and take the connector apart on the trailer umbilical. Connect a jumper wire from the black wire (+12 volts from the battery) and connect this to the green wire. Marker lights should come on. Move the jumper to connect the black to yellow wire; backup lights should come on. You can continue and move to the combined left turn/brake light (red wire) and right turn/stop light (brown).



If these all light up properly, check the tow vehicle. Otherwise you probably have problems in the trailer. My money is a problem in the tow vehicle, or something isn't wired properly somewhere.



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Old 12-31-2018, 08:50 PM   #12
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Seperation of lights?

FYI... The running lights, tail lights, brake lights, turn signals, backup lights are all powered from the tow vehicle.

The porch light and internal lights are powered by either the converter or the house battery.
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Old 01-01-2019, 09:20 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
... remove the backshell on the 7 blade connector on the camper and check that all wires are connected tightly and no wires are touching. If the parking lights are turned on on the tow vehicle, then you should see 12+ volts on the meter when measuring between the tail/running lights blade and the common/ground blade.
Good advice except I'm not sure I have ever seen a trailer umbilical cord plug that was not molded and sealed, including the one I got with my Scamp. So disassembly is maybe not an option. However you can do the same procedure at the connections inside the Scamp, where the umbilical ties into the camper's wiring. Its probably all connected with wire nuts and you can likely get a thin meter probe on the wires without even unscrewing the nut.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Meyer View Post
Does your Scamp have a battery that powers interior lights when not connected to shore power? If so, you are in luck.

Disconnect from your tow vehicle and take the connector apart on the trailer umbilical. Connect a jumper wire from the black wire (+12 volts from the battery) and connect this to the green wire. Marker lights should come on.
And if no battery any 12 volt DC supply or 12 volt battery (alarm battery, etc). But again, I doubt you can take the plug apart so plan B is described above.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Meyer View Post
If these all light up properly, check the tow vehicle. Otherwise you probably have problems in the trailer. My money is a problem in the tow vehicle, or something isn't wired properly somewhere. ..
Yup.. vehicle problem or trailer ground (negative) .. I'm all in on that bet.

Its a process of elimination. As already said, first test the tow veh. Either hook it to another camper or get a tester. If it passes then start at one end of the trailer's wiring and break the problem down into sections that you can check. Start with the negative power (ground) since that is the only common element here. With the battery disconnected and no shore power, Your meter should show continuity at all points of the negative wiring and the frame.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
FYI... The running lights, tail lights, brake lights, turn signals, backup lights are all powered from the tow vehicle.

The porch light and internal lights are powered by either the converter or the house battery.
I see no reference to the porch or interior lights in this thread. The problem is clearly described as being with the running, etc. lights.
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Old 01-01-2019, 09:54 AM   #14
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I burned up a wire harness once because of a bad ground. Easiest way to test ground is to use one leg of a jumper cable. Hook one end to the frame of your TV and the other end either to the frame of your trailer, or the ground connection inside your trailer.

I bought one of these when I repaired my Trillium. With a weather proof junction box on the tongue of the trailer, it makes testing easy.

+10 to next comment, if you live in a colder climate, then a longer cord with the box inside the trailer is a better move.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LeisureRV-T...!-1:rk:21:pf:0
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