Scamp Rewire Question

[Lawrence W]

Rewire of 1980 Scamp:
The section between front bench and LH wheel well (under bath and stove area): I plan to run under floor in PVC conduit. Reasoning is, the wiring is in too tight to pull, and the (marker light) wiring is glued behind the elephant skin. Any pros/cons on this idea? I pulled a 110V wire earlier this year to install a front outlet, it almost tore the wiring insulation off to get it through. Any ideas on an alternate option? Also, would anyone have information that shows what AWG to use for the rewire? Will the 7-wire insulated/color-coded wire satisfy the AWG requirements (Mfgr'd by Deka)? The below photos demonstrate why I'm rewiring!

[Radar1]

I know the battery wiring on mine uses 12AWG to the converter. I purchased some 10AWG last week and planned to install that for a bit better capacity between the tongue and converter. I was having a problem running a 12 volt CPAP machine and initially thought it was the weak 12AWG wiring causing too much voltage drop, but after checking the connections behind the converter, I discovered Scamp ran several ground wires off the main 12V negative wire by using those ScothLok type connectors (which I dislike) and I think the ScothLok type connectors actually cut into some of the 12AWG wiring, thus diminishing it's capacity. I disconnected all the ScothLok type connectors and ran the wires to a grounding block I purchased instead, and my CPAP runs fine now even before I've run the 10AWG, so maybe the 12AWG is fine after all.

John

[Lawrence W]

Originally Posted by John Haggerty

I know the battery wiring on mine uses 12AWG to the converter. I purchased some 10AWG last week and planned to install that for a bit better capacity between the tongue and converter. I was having a problem running a 12 volt CPAP machine and initially thought it was the weak 12AWG wiring causing too much voltage drop, but after checking the connections behind the converter, I discovered Scamp ran several ground wires off the main 12V negative wire by using those ScothLok type connectors (which I dislike) and I think the ScothLok type connectors actually cut into some of the 12AWG wiring, thus diminishing it's capacity. I disconnected all the ScothLok type connectors and ran the wires to a grounding block I purchased instead, and my CPAP runs fine now even before I've run the 10AWG, so maybe the 12AWG is fine after all.

John

Thanks for your feedback. I've found the same problem with ScotchLok...I used a terminal block. I purchased 7-strand-colored/insulated cable for my total rewire project, run the (16ga & 14ga) wiring to lights, etc. from there whenever possible. Is there any connectors that are an alternative to Scotchlok? Excuse me. I meant Scothlok...

[Raya]

Originally Posted by Lawrence W

Is there any connectors that are an alternative to Scotchlok?

I'm not sure how you're using the Scotchloks in this case, but I agree that they are not a good way to go. I like a high-quality crimp connector with built in heat-shrink/glue. Something like a 3m or Ancor brand (used in marine applications). Also of course the crimp has to be made well (but you probably know this if you are already doing wiring).

Raya

[Eddie Longest]

Lawrence
I use this junction box on my work trailers and plan on using one on a 13 Scamp I'm working on. I will also be installing a 7 pin molded pigtail on the trailer. This will help clean up the mess under the front seat.
Eddie
This Old Trailer: Installation of a Junction Box Video | etrailer.com