Scamp Rivet Size List - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-30-2013, 09:15 AM   #15
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All the rivets are back in for connecting the dinette-back section save one. Mostly 5/8. This one looks like it's going to need a 3/4 or so. Oh well, I don't need much of an excuse to go back to Seven Corners!
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:07 AM   #16
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A 2001 Scamp should have bases and caps on all the rivets. The rivets need to be replaced with new caps and bases. For the hairline cracks you can use Capt. Tolleys Crack Sealer. If the holes are really eaten out reglass, gelcoat and redrill. There should not be that much of a load on the upper cabinet rivets. Are the spiral metal supports still installed and secure? Don't overload the upper cabinets.
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:19 PM   #17
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I am with Eddie. If there are no caps or holders it sounds like someone has already replaced the rivets but didnt replace the cap holders and caps. I know some people here suggest the holders and caps are only decorative but I suspect the holders for the caps actually act as a little bit of a cushion on the gelcoat and *may* help to avoid gelcoat cracks if the cabinets are stressed. I know Scamp didn't always use caps on their rivets but they sure were in 2001 and for at least a decade prior. There is usually a reason why a manufacturer changes their practises and avoiding gelcoat cracks *may* be one of the reasons they started using holders & caps on the rivets.
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
Susan
A 2001 Scamp should have bases and caps on all the rivets. The rivets need to be replaced with new caps and bases. For the hairline cracks you can use Capt. Tolleys Crack Sealer. If the holes are really eaten out reglass, gelcoat and redrill. There should not be that much of a load on the upper cabinet rivets. Are the spiral metal supports still installed and secure? Don't overload the upper cabinets.
Eddie
Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure
Thanks Eddie,
Yes the metal supports are still there. I plan on replacing any rivets where the clear washer is damaged so it won't hold a cap and any that have cracking. It is under a carport, so don't have to worry about water getting in.

Susan
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:17 PM   #19
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cabinet and clostet rivets

There was an issue with the acorn nuts used for the cabinet and closet. The original acorn cap nuts are #12 and all the stores in the area have them for #10 and then jump to 1/4 inch. What I ended up doing was drilling the #10 hole larger with a 3/16 drill bit. Still left a little bit of thread ridge for the rivet to grip and fit snug.

Once I drilled the first cap nut I wrapped a little masking tape around the drill bit to mark how deep to go.

Used Scamp #68 rivets 3/16 x 1/2 with two exceptions. At the curve of the closet I needed a 5/8 long rivet to get through far enough. Closet and trailer wall not as tight with each other on both sides at the curve.

I considered using #10 stainless machine screws but two things stopped me. Could not find purple (220) lock tite locally lock tite I was concerned the nuts would vibrate loose. Can order the purple (low strength) version online. Second wife found it easier to hold cap nut for a second while I popped a rivet than to hold a wrench on the nut while I tightened the screw.
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Old 03-21-2014, 01:10 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Perry J View Post
I just finished reriveting a 13' Scamp.
Windows, curtain rod holders, belly band, awning rail and every rivet in the shell.

I used 3/16 X 1/4, 3/16X1 1/2 and 1/8x1 1/2.
All purchased at Ace Hardware or Lowes.
Snap Caps from Pro Dec.

The only rivets not replaced are those used to hold the black trim around the bottom of the shell.

John
Hi John, I am assuming you used snap caps with all of the rivets on the body (eclsuding band etc). Just checking. I am looking to re-do all on my 1980 and would like to use the snap caps.

Thanks. . jimbo
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:46 PM   #21
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Hi John, I am assuming you used snap caps with all of the rivets on the body (eclsuding band etc). Just checking. I am looking to re-do all on my 1980 and would like to use the snap caps.

Thanks. . jimbo
You're right. I added snap caps to everything but the belly band, windows
and awning rail. It probably didn't need it, but I added a drop of Dicor sealant to the rivet heads on the awning rail.
AS I remember I replaced well over 100 rivets.
The PO had an awning rail bolted to the roof and all the bolts leaked.
That was removed, sealed and riveted.
The door window and both side windows were removed, sealed and re-riveted.
The refrigerator vents, stove vent, heater exhaust vent, electric cord hatch, and water fill were all re-riveted.
The PO also had about 10 rivets he put through the hull for no apparent reason.
I think I replaced more on the 13 than I did when I replaced all the rivets and snap caps on my 16.

John
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Old 03-21-2014, 11:06 PM   #22
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I owned a 1995 Scamp Deluxe with the wood interior. It did not have rivets under the caps but screws into wood interior. Some parts on the sides had rivets.
Chuck
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Old 03-22-2014, 06:44 AM   #23
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I owned a 1995 Scamp Deluxe with the wood interior. It did not have rivets under the caps but screws into wood interior. Some parts on the sides had rivets.
Chuck
I also have a Deluxe and Scamp uses rivets for all the curtain rod holders. A ton of useless holes IMHO.
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:55 PM   #24
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John great info. Thanks for the updated details!!
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