Scamp Rivet Window Replacement

[RogerDat]

Do people think this is a weep hole or something else? Note the green algae stain. I'm thinking that this hole was intended to drain the track and instead it was sealed with a rivet by PO so water has been overflowing the track to the inside.



Am replacing window butyl tape 44 rivets per window front and back 22 each side. Having a wonderful time wish you were here.

[EllPea in CA]

Roger,
Sounds like a ton of fun, sorry to be missing out!
LP

[RogerDat]

Well I drilled out those rivets to allow for drainage. The track having green algae stains was the deciding indicator. It poured this afternoon and the window did not leak. One down 3 to go.


Pulled the front window and found that the opening top corners (where it was leaking) had been cut too large, a rivet on each side was so close to the edge it only had 1/2 a hole. Only reason those rivets had any grip was they had a washer on them to pull against.


Debated just doing the rivet & washer thing but decided on doing some fiberglass work to build up material in each corner. Both so the rivet had something to grip and so the butyl tape had some surface to seal.


It is going faster as I get a feel for how best to remove the rivets.

[RogerDat]

I'm finding it takes the butyl tape awhile to compress when I rivet the frame back in. Seems to work better to get a tight seal if I do a couple of rivets on the top and a couple on the bottom then wait a bit for the butyl tape to compress then do another single rivet at the ends of each line of existing rivets Wait a bit and then repeat.


Essentially I add 4 rivets each time. On left top & bottom. On right top & bottom. Then wait for the butyl tape to compress a bit. Repeat working my way around the window.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by RogerDat;

Essentially I add 4 rivets each time. On left top & bottom. On right top & bottom. Then wait for the butyl tape to compress a bit. Repeat working my way around the window.

I started doing somewhat the same thing for even butyl compression. I put all the rivets in the frame but don't snap them off. I pull them all to about the same pressure, maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of a pull each, using a crossover pattern like torqueing a cylinder head. Normally takes a few rounds. When the first one pops the butyl is pretty much even all around.

[RogerDat]

That sounds like a good approach Dave. I still have the two side windows, I'll give that a try on those.


In the rear I did find some water coming in through a couple of screw holes from when tail lights were replaced. Holes were tucked in under the wood rail that supports the back bench seats. Could not see them easily.

[RogerDat]

Dave's suggestion to set the pop rivets only part way and work my way around in a cross pattern worked well. I also used a C clamp and some wood to help snug things up before doing rivets.


Had to take the screens out to get the clamp through and used small blocks of wood to spread the force out. Found that a couple of wedge shaped strips I had cut off of some lumber worked well to compensate for the curve when clamping along the top.


I just did enough clamp to snug things in to the point that the butyl tape was making snug contact with the window and the shell. Then do the rivets just snug. Then come back through and finish the rivets after they are all in. Anyplace that did not look tight I applied the clamp again until I did a fully tightened rivet on either side of the clamp.


Finished the last window today in the rain but afterwards went inside and no drips!

[Paul O.]

"Having a wonderful time wish you were here."

Did you really want to have everybody who reads this watch you work, stand around and kibitz? Maybe most of this forum can be called "virtual kibitzing".

I think Dave's idea of partially snugging the pop rivets like the cylinder head, going around until they pop, is brilliant!

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by Paul O.

"Having a wonderful time wish you were here."

Did you really want to have everybody who reads this watch you work, stand around and kibitz? Maybe most of this forum can be called "virtual kibitzing".

I think Dave's idea of partially snugging the pop rivets like the cylinder head, going around until they pop, is brilliant!

Married & have kids so I'm used to it. Actually it is getting to the point that when I mutter "where did I set that phillips screwdriver" having someone answer helps speed things up compared to me wandering in circles looking for it

Yep idea worked really well. Plus (big plus to my mind) I could then see where the gap between window and shell indicated the butyl was bunching up and not fully compressed. That is where I would break out the C clamp before doing the final tighten.

Can FINALLY proceed with inside work secure from the rain. Man it has been a job. The rare but not unheard of scamp belly band leak, door hinge bolt leak, old taillight bolt leaks and window leaks.

Have all the wood rails ready for seats and couch to go back in. Going to do some work on those first. Planning to glass a piece of luan wood to spots I want to mount an outlet to provide some additional backing and strength. One on the front couch (inverter & 12 volt) one on the front edge of the street side dining seat.

Meanwhile I'll primer and paint the floor in preparation for allure flooring while I do that stuff in the garage.