Scamp rubber window trim - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-06-2010, 09:58 PM   #1
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I just finished the most difficult, the most time-consuming, the most frustrating and painful work I have ever had to do on a trailer. Had steady leaks from the rear window so ordered new rubber molding and the required key spline from Scamp. I pulled out the rear window, and spent a horrible two days wrassling with the new install.

What a total PAIN! Nothing, I mean nothing, not even lying on my back underneath the trailer letting globs of fiberglass drop on my face as I spot re-glassed the under-flooring comes remotely close to doing that window job. Will some one tell me how this job is done? I do not want to go through that experience with the front window. My fingers need relief.
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:16 PM   #2
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I'm sure others will chime in, but I remember a posting (I think it was here) wherein someone was explaining how they did it at work (school busses use this same system). As I remember, it was not the same "put a string in and then pull it out as you go" that you do with a car windshield or truck back window.

Maybe we could dig that posting up, if indeed it was here; or, perhaps if you have a school bus garage nearby, you could give them a call or stop by?

And then tell us what you find out

(Empathy for your struggles - absolutely.)

Raya
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:38 PM   #3
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Kevin61 posted how he did his with 2 video's on youtube. Plus he has another on how to use the lockstrip tool. Odd thing is that he has his lockstrip on the inside, mine's on the outside.

Make sure you read the comments from other viewers they provide tips.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:57 AM   #4
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Damn! I should have known to look up Kevins' You-tube stuff before starting this project.

On my Scamp the lock channel side is on the outside. My mistake was first not realizing which side of the rubber faces in and which side faces to the out. The lock strip is not centered. I was able to get the plastic sheet into the rubber channel with moderate effort - after running it around the fiberglass opening and tucking in most of the rat fur. The biggest challange (and I mean biggest) was forcing in the locking strip. Here's a picture of the tools I ended up using to get it done. Even with these, the job was the biggest, baddest dog I ever had to fight.

Wish I had thought to use Armor-all or some such lubricant as Kevin did, but without that special lock strip channel spreading tool he had I wonder if it likely still would have been an inch-by-inch B-tch. Must admit, though, once a job like this is finally successfully done, it sure makes you happy.
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Old 06-07-2010, 08:37 AM   #5
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A $15 lockstrip tool would have made the job a lot easier. Is this the case when all you have is a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail? I read similar horror stories about replacing the plexi windows, I understand the front window is worse due to the curve. Maybe Kevin can verify this? I think it's best to know what you're facing BEFORE it happens, at least that way you're prepared...
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Old 06-07-2010, 08:38 AM   #6
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My mistake was first not realizing which side of the rubber faces in and which side faces to the out.
I think that's the way it was meant to be ... lock strip facing out.
If you catch Kevin's video he says he thought the lock strip on the inside "looked better". Kevin has some unique ways of doing things.

Glad to hear we have a Happy Camper amongst our midst.
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:55 AM   #7
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Roy,
I think Myron might have meant that, even with the lockstrip on the outside, there is an assymetricality to where the lockstrip is placed in the rubber (i.e. more toward the glass or more toward the shell). (But granted it should go to the outside of the camper.)

Myron,
Don't feel bad about not using Armorall, as it contains silicone and could make later painting or other work a real bear with its insidious contaminating oil (not to sugar-coat it )

While I haven't used it, I do have a lockstrip tool; it looks pretty clever.

Raya

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Old 06-07-2010, 02:51 PM   #8
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Yes, Raya, that is exactly what I meant about the lock strip location. I also agree with avoiding any use of Armorall, for those same reasons. (What was Kevin thinking?) Have never seen a lockstrip tool for sale anywhere. Where do you find it? $15 sounds like too much money to me, tho, so before tackling the front window I just might try investing the time in making my own at home with some metal scraps.

All sympathetic postings greatly appreciated. I must continue my rest now.
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Old 06-07-2010, 04:23 PM   #9
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Here's C. R. Laurence's page with their weatherstripping and lockstrip tools. That said, they're probably not less than $15.

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showLine...ory=19748:19783

CRL makes a lot of the rubber gaskets, lockstrips, and etc. which you can find here (not that you need it, but for future searchers):

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showLine...p;History=19748

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Old 06-07-2010, 05:26 PM   #10
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I recently replaced the side window in my U-haul. I had to use the old rubber seal which had ( like me ) becime somewhat stiff from advanced age. I never broke a sweat getting it in and it only took 1/2 hour. In addition, I didn't have to purchase a single tool to do it.

I paid a profesional $50 to do it. Best money I ever spent!
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Old 06-07-2010, 06:17 PM   #11
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Lockstrip tool, dawn dishwashing soapy water and about an hour and half per window is what it took when I did mine.

Another lockstrip tool this is the one I have.

Lockstrip channel goes outside on stock installation.

Not a fun job, but certainly not one that should take more then an afternoon for both windows.

Not too many glass shops around here would do lockstrip anymore, but if you find one it might be worth considering.
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:42 PM   #12
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$15 to save 15 hours of frustration and knuckle busting seems very economical to me. Then the tool has resale value to other member's.
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:42 AM   #13
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I changed the front weather stripping on an 88 13' Scamp.
I used one small spray bottle of spray Armor All and a large flat blade screw driver to seat the lock strip.
The answer is copious amounts of Armor All and the lock strip will go in with a minimal of trouble.
Copious means the Armor All was dripping and running down the front of the trailer.
John
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