Scamp Taillights - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-21-2014, 02:27 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by julmar View Post
I just ordered these for my '89 16 ft scamp. Are these 12V? Thanks so much
yup and you are going to be very pleased with them. Best change I ever made to my scamp in regards to safety.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:13 PM   #30
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Excellent! Now just have to figure out how to change them out!
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:51 PM   #31
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Excellent! Now just have to figure out how to change them out!
Julie, just be sure to read all the replies in this thread. You'll learn about what color of wire goes with what and how to deal with needing a license plate light.
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:29 AM   #32
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Excellent! Now just have to figure out how to change them out!
Having done them the best advise I can give you is to remove the rear benches inside as it will make the project go *way* faster and easier!! I know its hard to believe but trust me it will - impossible to find & properly connect inside the trailer all the wires needed if you are hanging upside down in the hatch! There are only a few screws holding the benches in place!!!

To solve the licence plate light issue I just used bolts with LED lights in them to secure the plate to the original scamp licence plate holder.

Edit: Forgot to mention the BIG mistake some make is they simple remove the old light and cut the wires on the outside of the trailer & try install the new light using the old light wires - that will not work well!!! You need to remove all of the old light wires which are attached to the trailers main wiring system inside the trailer!
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Old 02-24-2014, 08:59 PM   #33
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Carole & Donna. Thanks so much. I was good until that last paragraph. Then knew this was beyond my expertise (which equates to nothing mechanical). Thx to chuck, received lights today. They are lovely.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:10 PM   #34
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Carole & Donna. Thanks so much. I was good until that last paragraph. Then knew this was beyond my expertise (which equates to nothing mechanical). Thx to chuck, received lights today. They are lovely.
Actually its real simple to do - I did mine on my own. The bench is supper easy to remove - only has a few screws on the top and floor .... light to take out.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:19 PM   #35
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This is what has me concerned from your post.
"You need to remove all of the old light wires which are attached to the trailers main wiring system inside the trailer!"
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:50 PM   #36
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This is what has me concerned from your post.
"You need to remove all of the old light wires which are attached to the trailers main wiring system inside the trailer!"
What I mean is some people just go and take off the old lights and cut the wires on the outside and then try and attach the new wires to those. It doesnt work out trying to do it that way, not to mention is way better to have the wire connections inside the dry trailer.

Remove the old lights but the wires from them run to inside the trailer and the connections are at the back of the trailer inside the rear benches. Thats were they are connected into the trailers main wiring system. Find those connections and disconnect the old light wires from there and feed the new light wires through the hole and connect at the same point you remove the old lights wires. Highly recommend you take a photo of the wires before you start taking them apart as there is a mess of them in that area - especially on the passenger side of the trailer (right side).
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:18 PM   #37
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I have a deluxe Scamp. Didn't want to remove the benches! I soldered the wires (on the outside, exterior) and pulled the wires inside new tail light wire to old tail light wire. Easy, peasy. YMMV
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:34 PM   #38
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I do have license plate lights with brackets. They come in one wire or two wire.
Chuck
I shipped the light on Friday to Boise via USPS.
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:19 AM   #39
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Carol is referring to the subpar factory wiring connections. It's best to remove them and properly crimp/heatshrink the connections to prevent future problems. Crimping to the old wires doesn't take care of that.
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:07 AM   #40
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Carol is referring to the subpar factory wiring connections. It's best to remove them and properly crimp/heatshrink the connections to prevent future problems. Crimping to the old wires doesn't take care of that.
Jared your correct as to why I made the recommendation to do it from the inside.
Was a little taken back by the state/workmanship of the original wiring job done back there. Gave me a chance to replace the twist on connection caps Scamp used for the tail lights with heat shrink warp connectors. Happy I did it that way as I had one side marker light that had been an on again off again issue since obtaining the trailer.... had attempted to fix it prior but the issue always returned. Changing/tightening up the wire connections inside the hatch fixed that as well.

When I first started working on installing the new tail lights I thought taking out the bench would be a big job so I didn't do it at first. I tried doing it with my head down in the hatch but it was really uncomfortable and not easy to see where all the wires actually go. Wasted a couple of hours trying it that way until I caved in and took the bench out - about 5 min or less of a job to do that.
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:56 AM   #41
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I got the tail lights and the license plate holder from Chuck and they look great and the price was fair. Cant wait to install them this spring.
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:07 PM   #42
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Julie should have mentioned that if you want to keep it simple you can do it as Donna did. Its pretty simple these days to solder the wires together. You can pick up the connections needed at petty well any hardware store. I have done it and simple used a heat gun I have.
There is a YouTube video that shows how simple it is.
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