Scamp thermostat cover problem - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-01-2016, 09:32 PM   #1
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Name: John
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Scamp thermostat cover problem

In my 2009 13' Scamp, quite often when I move the cushion nearest the thermostat, I accidentally knock the cover off from it--sometimes damaging the thermostat itself. I can't believe I'm the only one having this problem. Besides telling me to be more careful, does anyone have a solution for me?
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:50 PM   #2
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Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13' towed with a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7l Magnum W/full tow package (over kill)
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Originally Posted by Postman View Post
In my 2009 13' Scamp, quite often when I move the cushion nearest the thermostat, I accidentally knock the cover off from it--sometimes damaging the thermostat itself. I can't believe I'm the only one having this problem. Besides telling me to be more careful, does anyone have a solution for me?
In over 1000 nights of going from bed to dinette and back again I think I've knocked the cover off twice. If you damaged the thermostat they're easily replaced. I replace the first one when a wire inside broke, the second one when contacts quit working. (not designed for low current) The last once seems to be working just fine. I think I found the replacements on Amazon.
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:57 PM   #3
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Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
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Originally Posted by Postman View Post
In my 2009 13' Scamp, quite often when I move the cushion nearest the thermostat, I accidentally knock the cover off from it--sometimes damaging the thermostat itself. I can't believe I'm the only one having this problem. Besides telling me to be more careful, does anyone have a solution for me?
I have dealt with that issue for 12 years, and learned to just be careful about it.
I have intended to move the thermostat but haven't gotten around to it.
I think the bigger problem with that location is that the furnace heats the cabinet and delays the thermostat allowing the trailer to cool a little too much before it kicks on again in cold weather.
Simple telephone wire is large enough to run the thermostat and it can be easily fished into a new location where the thermostat can be out of harm's way and more effective at the same time.
Also while you are at it, Honeywell makes a great and durable digital thermostat for only a few dollars which would withstand the treatment you now dish out and possibly solve your problem to your satisfaction without moving it.
Also honeywell makes a wireless thermostat which could be placed anywhere but it seems to be available only in Europe
http://www.honeywell.cz/home/Odb.clanky/DT92A.pdf

Honeywell Wireless Digital Room Thermostat DT92E1000 | eBay

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Old 06-02-2016, 07:29 AM   #4
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Pretty much the same here. Mine was broken when I bought my used Scamp, and it had clearly been whacked. With care we have avoided damaging the replacement.

I have also thought about moving it, but not sure where. I agree, Floyd, that the stock location allows pretty wide temperature swings. Where would you put it in the standard front bunk model?
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Old 06-02-2016, 07:54 AM   #5
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The best solution I've seen in a Scamp, the PO mounted a piece of wood on the spiral support posts and mounted the thermostat to the wood block. The PO used electrical tape to secure the wire to the post but I replaced it with shrink tubing. Not only did it keep the T-stat from being knocked around but the temp. seemed more stable in the trailer.
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:23 AM   #6
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Pretty much the same here. Mine was broken when I bought my used Scamp, and it had clearly been whacked. With care we have avoided damaging the replacement.

I have also thought about moving it, but not sure where. I agree, Floyd, that the stock location allows pretty wide temperature swings. Where would you put it in the standard front bunk model?
In the Standard it would be convenient to just raise it to the side of the upper cupboard . It would be easy to route the wire under the ratfur on the backsplash and it would put the thermostat out of harm's way.
I take a piece of #9 solid wire long enough to reach. Sharpen one end and crimp the other into a needle eye. You can then attach the wire to the eye (like thread) and fish it down to the cupboard which holds the furnace.
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:57 AM   #7
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Trailer: 2014 Scamp 16, 2011 RAV4 V6
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I had the same problem with our new (then) 2014 Scamp. Drove me nuts. I fixed it by attaching a couple strap thingies (sorry but I don't know what they're called or how to describe them - purchased at Home Depot) to the structural braces tha straddle the thermostat and then fixing a snap tie between them and over the thermostat cover. Worked but I've since replaced it with a the new digital thermostat tha Scamp now uses. Looks much better.
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:24 AM   #8
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I had a number of wires I wanted to run to the upper cabinet and did not find it practical to go under the ratfur. It was too easy to damage the insulation and some of my wiring supplies power so that I did not want to pinch the wiring behind the cabinets and have the increased chance of failure at some point. I do not have a thermostat but this method would work for relocating one to the upper cabinet.

I drilled a hole in the upper cabinet, and a corresponding hole in the counter-top between the body of the camper and the upper cabinet support. (Care must be taken in the placement). The hole is just large enough to pass a PVC pipe through. I then cut a length of PVC pipe and cut down a female coupler, sanding down the inner surface until I had two simple rings that tightly slip-fit on the pipe. After dry fitting everything to make sure it was OK, I put the rings on the pipe, put the pipe in place, and pushed the rings tight against the cabinet and counter-top. I then secured the rings on the pipe with a pinch of PVC cement. The rings act as sort of escutcheon.

This allows me to pass a number of wires from the bottom where the main trailer wiring and breakers/fuses are located, to the top cabinet. It protects the wiring very well; make it easy to change, add or delete wiring as I wish, and even adds a little extra support for the upper cabinet. I even like the way it looks. It is on the left side of the upper cabinet support in the photo.

I put a new switch for the water pump by the sink and used the existing switch by the bed to control the USB outlet that I had added. This way I can turn the outlet on or off from the bed and do not have to worry about accidentally turning on the water pump when sleeping. The wiring for the switch controlled USB outlet is one of those that go through the PVC pipe to the upper cabinet.
Attached Thumbnails
Cabinet wiring.jpg   Cabinet wiring-Upper cabinet inside.jpg  

Cabinet wiring-Lower cabinet inside.jpg  
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Old 06-02-2016, 11:06 AM   #9
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I put a new switch for the water pump by the sink and used the existing switch by the bed to control the USB outlet that I had added. This way I can turn the outlet on or off from the bed and do not have to worry about accidentally turning on the water pump when sleeping. The wiring for the switch controlled USB outlet is one of those that go through the PVC pipe to the upper cabinet.
The most clever approach to the water pump switch that I have seen was as follows...
Simply remove the switch and place it inside the cabinet using a spacer.
you can then operate the switch through the resultant hole in the cupboard.
This method would work for the thermostat as well using a recessed electrical box.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:39 AM   #10
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Thanks to everyone who responded! Your input is appreciated!
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Old 06-21-2016, 02:46 PM   #11
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Name: Von
Trailer: Scamp 19'
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I had the same problem when I bought my Scamp 19 I made a guard out of perforated steel & used the cabinet brackets to install so no drilling required, no problem since then, once bent in a curved shape the guard is ridged enough to withstand being bumped temp. setting can be viewed from the top of the guard
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Old 06-21-2016, 02:59 PM   #12
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Thanks for the suggestion. It sounds like it might work for me.
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:46 AM   #13
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Scamp 16 Ft layout 6
Wisconsin
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Thermostat guard

I made a guard for our Scamp 16 sometime back. It prevents someone from kicking or bumping the thermostat cover. Here are some photos. It could have been made with a better looking material, but wanted to make sure it worked prior to doing so. Hope it helps . I used 1.25 in plastic tube for stand offs under the guard.
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Old 06-24-2016, 11:09 AM   #14
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Thanks, Jim--however, the photos didn't come through.
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