Scamp Upper Cabinets Questions - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-14-2009, 04:56 PM   #1
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I saw some pictures on another site where a guy made his own uper front and rear cabinets for his 76 Boler. I have been wanting to build my own as well. Can somone tell me what the measurements are for the factory cabinets? Basicly the height at the apex and the depth at the midpoint would be helpfull. Also are the front and rear the same dimensions?

Thank you in advance!
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:38 PM   #2
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David,

Con, a member here, made an overhead rear cabinet for his Boler and shared a lofting pattern with us. You would want to check the fit on your Scamp, of course, but as far as I know the molds for the older Scamps like yours are the same as the Boler. This pattern is for a cabinet that comes down to just above the rear window gasket, so that the curtain rods can then be suspended from the bottom of the cabinet, instead of riveting through the shell.

There a post just before this one in the same thread where he posts the pattern for shorter cabinets (i.e. they don't come down as close to the windows).

This is for a rear cabinet:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...st&p=203275

Also, here is a thread on making your own upper cabinets:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...mp;#entry303125

By the way, it's mentioned in the latter thread that the front cabinet is of slightly different dimensions than the rear one.

Raya
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Old 10-14-2009, 07:58 PM   #3
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I put overhead cabinents in our Scamp.... Made the pattern out of several pieces of cardboard, etc, whatever was laying around the shop. Then taped them together to get the full piece pattern. I would hesitate to say a pattern that fits my trailer would fit another Scamp..... Age, settling, "middle aged spread", difference in production dates (Monday or a Friday) etc, would all be a factor.... The front contour was different from the rear also. Used "L" brackets to hold them by drilling out the rivets holding the curtain brackets and putting SS stove bolts in, then hung the curtains from the bottom of the shelves. Larry
Attached Thumbnails
over_bed_cabinents__Small_.JPG   SANY0541__Small_.JPG  

SANY0542__Small_.JPG   SANY0543__Small_.JPG  

SANY0544__Small_.JPG   SANY0545__Small_.JPG  

SANY0546__Small_.JPG   front_shelf__Small_.JPG  

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Old 10-14-2009, 08:38 PM   #4
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Hi Larry,

Your shelves are one of the sets that are in my second link

But now you've added even more photos - thanks!

Raya
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Old 10-15-2009, 12:32 PM   #5
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Thank you so much for all the info. I have access to a plotter so I will plot out the template and see if it will fit. At any rate answered my questions. I had imagined a wrap around cabinet but I was not sure if I would like it, or how to do it for that matter. I think it looks great. I will start with the end cabinet over the dinett. I think once I have that one down I can do the front one. I will later do the side cabs. Those look great! Thank you all for the information. I will post pictures of my progresss!

Thank you again!
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:32 PM   #6
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We removed the old, heavy MDF overhead cabinets that came with our Scamp 5er and built new ones from lightweight 3/8" and 1/4" plywood that are larger, lighter and better looking.


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I used our old cabinet to make a cardboard template for the curves, then test-fit the cardboard template to make sure it had the right dimensions.

Our front street-side cabinet are made of pre-finished 3/8" plywood and span the whole length of our loft (which is very nice). Because they connect directly to a cabinet or vertical support (depending on side) it was easier for us to build the "shelf" part first, then attach the front. Many adjustments were made to get the dimensions just right.


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I also made cabinets for the back of the trailer. The new cabinets are a taller, deeper, and longer than the ones they replaced. That's one of the advantages of building them yourself, you can make them better! Once again the new cabinets run full-length from the back of the trailer the the existing fiberglass kitchen cabinets, but this time have a 1/4" gap between their front edge and the existing cabinets. I also cut a notch at the forward ends so they would fit around the fiberglass flange of the kitchen cabinets. They're painted them to match the fiberglass gelcoat.


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Once again I made cardboard templates of all my cabinet parts and test-fit them before I started cutting the 1/4" plywood I used to make them, which was a good thing. The curb and street-side cabinets are slightly different lengths!
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:42 PM   #7
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Once the left and right rear cabinets were up we added a "bridge" cabinet over the back window using the same 3/8" pre-finished plywood we used in the loft. Also like the loft cabinets, the bridge cabinet was built first as a shelf, then the front of the cabinet went on. This made it much easier to get the pieces to line up with the white cabinets I built on either side.


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Just as I did for all the other cabinets, I made cardboard templates of all the pieces and made sure they fit right before cutting any wood. Cardboard is a lot cheaper (like free at an appliance store) and much easier to trim and adjust than plywood.
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
I put overhead cabinents in our Scamp.... Made the pattern out of several pieces of cardboard, etc, whatever was laying around the shop. Then taped them together to get the full piece pattern. I would hesitate to say a pattern that fits my trailer would fit another Scamp..... Age, settling, "middle aged spread", difference in production dates (Monday or a Friday) etc, would all be a factor.... The front contour was different from the rear also. Used "L" brackets to hold them by drilling out the rivets holding the curtain brackets and putting SS stove bolts in, then hung the curtains from the bottom of the shelves. Larry
Nice job, Larry!

I decided against using "L" brackets when I put my cabinets in. I glued supports made from a strip of lumber along the top and back edges of the cabinet and put screws through the walls of the trailer into the lumber supports every 10" or so to hold the cabinets in-place. I'm hoping that'll reduce the amount of stress placed on any one spot of my fiberglass shell.
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:35 PM   #9
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David,

What happened to your original cabinets? If you still have them, consider this option...

My front and rear overheads were pretty beat up, but I came up with a simple solution that looks pretty good (albeit heavier). I built and mounted panels and new doors using 3/8" Birch plywood.

And since I did not like the scale and juxtaposition of the original galley overhead cabinet, I built one custom to better fit my taste and needs.
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Old 10-17-2009, 12:03 PM   #10
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http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...ost&id=6697

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...ost&id=6593
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Old 10-17-2009, 01:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
I put overhead cabinents in our Scamp.... Made the pattern out of several pieces of cardboard, etc, whatever was laying around the shop. Then taped them together to get the full piece pattern. I would hesitate to say a pattern that fits my trailer would fit another Scamp..... Age, settling, "middle aged spread", difference in production dates (Monday or a Friday) etc, would all be a factor.... The front contour was different from the rear also. Used "L" brackets to hold them by drilling out the rivets holding the curtain brackets and putting SS stove bolts in, then hung the curtains from the bottom of the shelves. Larry
dear sir, my husband and myself have just purchased a 1983 13' scamp. We have found lots of old leaks and have been removing damaged floor, wood support pieces for the rear benches, and the wooden attachment strips on the benches are junk too. So to say the least, we are really gun shy about putting any type of hole in the fiberglass, how do you ensure the don't leak? Also I like the idea of usilng the curtain rod hole to hold up the upper cabinets, but how did you secure the top? Maybe you could answer this too, any place to find some type of comparible, elephant skin material? I had to strip off the piece that covered the wood for the table supperts because that was rotten from a leak by the window thanks in advance, my name is suger mcallen and my husband is adrian eckert, we like in white pine tn ( as we locals refer to it as the "center of the universe" THANKS
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Old 10-19-2009, 02:00 PM   #12
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dear sir, my husband and myself have just purchased a 1983 13' scamp. We have found lots of old leaks and have been removing damaged floor, wood support pieces for the rear benches, and the wooden attachment strips on the benches are junk too. So to say the least, we are really gun shy about putting any type of hole in the fiberglass, how do you ensure the don't leak? Also I like the idea of usilng the curtain rod hole to hold up the upper cabinets, but how did you secure the top? Maybe you could answer this too, any place to find some type of comparible, elephant skin material? I had to strip off the piece that covered the wood for the table supperts because that was rotten from a leak by the window thanks in advance, my name is suger mcallen and my husband is adrian eckert, we like in white pine tn ( as we locals refer to it as the "center of the universe" THANKS

Hello Suger,
As an owner of a 1988 Scamp, and given the amount of water damage you have already discovered, I would recommend inspecting (and replacing as needed) every rivet running through your fiberglass hull/shell. If it were my trailer, I'd pull everything out of the inside: furniture modules, wall coverings, as well as all of your windows. This way you can see exactly where all of the damage exists, as well as the possible source of water leaks.

This may seem like more work than you're willing to do. But your upper cabinets, kitchen/galley unit and vertical cabinet are all held onto the shell with rivets, which over time become primary sources of leaks. I replaced all of my rivets with stainless steel bolts and nuts. Plus, generous amounts of [b]butyl putty to insure a good seal. (In fact, you can use butyl putty for ALL of your sealing needs. Don't use silicone!)

About your upper cabinets: the originals already have appropriate holes (top and sides) for hanging. There really isn't any good reason to use the curtain rod holes, UNLESS (as Larry did) you are replacing the original upper cabinets with something completely custom.

RJ
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Old 10-19-2009, 05:28 PM   #13
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Once the left and right rear cabinets were up we added a "bridge" cabinet over the back window using the same 3/8" pre-finished plywood we used in the loft. Also like the loft cabinets, the bridge cabinet was built first as a shelf, then the front of the cabinet went on. This made it much easier to get the pieces to line up with the white cabinets I built on either side.


Attachment 24296


Just as I did for all the other cabinets, I made cardboard templates of all the pieces and made sure they fit right before cutting any wood. Cardboard is a lot cheaper (like free at an appliance store) and much easier to trim and adjust than plywood.
I have been studying your pictures. I think your design for the loft cabinets is fantastic. I have been toying with an idea of doing something similar but I didn't know where to begin. I think I am if you don't mind going to completely borrow your design. I think I will do the upper end one a little different to match my decor but I am amazed how good they look. That was at least double the cabinet space in my trailer. I have a 77 Scamp. The roof is a little saggy and part of the reason I am looking at this is to help reinforce the roof as well as gain space. You did a fantastic job with making the lofts look factory. How did you get the rounded corner to look so good? Did you router it?

Thank you all again for all the information!
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Old 10-19-2009, 09:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
dear sir, So to say the least, we are really gun shy about putting any type of hole in the fiberglass, how do you ensure the don't leak? Also I like the idea of usilng the curtain rod hole to hold up the upper cabinets, but how did you secure the top? THANKS
Sugar--- sorry, I didn't see your post sooner, been busy..... As Robert posted, I also use butyl tape and stainless steel fasteners with ss washers. Just put a small wrap of butyl tape around the fastener on both sides of the ss washer, tighten gently and remove the excess that squishes out. I use nylock type nuts on the inside- usually no-stainless steel as they are less spendy and less prone to rust on the interior. As how I supported the top, I just drilled some holes thru the roof (horrors!!!!) and sealed with butyl tape again. No leaks so far. Larry
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