Screw holes? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-05-2011, 06:33 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by pindraak View Post
3M makes marine sealants 4000 and 5000 series, available at boat supply places. These places also have other sealants that are made for fiberglass. White is the most common color. I got a polyether sealant from West Marine that comes in black and white.

When you scrape silicone off, you can see why it is not good for fiberglass. Most of the bead is more stuck to itself than the trailer, and peels off fairly easily. Then patches of a thin layer of silicone, inadequate to seal anything, remain stuck to the trailer so hard that you have to damage or almost damage the surface to get them off.

FWIW: Denatured Alcohol does a pretty good job of removing the silicone residue. If the silicone is stuborn there is a product sold at Ace hardware. It comes in a maroon bubble pack and is hanging with the sealers. The brand name is "McKanica". Product name is Silicone Caulk Remover. Put it on, let it sit for a while, and wipe (scrape) it off. Then use Denatured Alcohol to remove all residues.
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Old 03-05-2011, 06:33 AM   #30
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This data sheet should explain bond strength to different materials.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...ant%205200.pdf
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Old 03-05-2011, 06:37 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Kip in Ga. View Post
FWIW: Denatured Alcohol does a pretty good job of removing the silicone residue. If the silicone is stuborn there is a product sold at Ace hardware. It comes in a maroon bubble pack and is hanging with the sealers. The brand name is "McKanica". Product name is Silicone Caulk Remover. Put it on, let it sit for a while, and wipe (scrape) it off. Then use Denatured Alcohol to remove all residues.
Kip
Read the data sheet, alcohol will prevent good bond if you use polyurethane adhesive.
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Old 03-05-2011, 08:08 AM   #32
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5200 is very permanent.... I've used it......The 4200 would be better in my opinion for anything you may want to remove later
If you put it under snap caps,windows, vents etc. when they go bad chances are you won't be able to get them off....... Try some on a scrap piece of fiberglass and let it sit two weeks and then try to remove it.
I haven't tried the 4200 yet but I've used the PL Polyeurethane stuff on the left in the picture (avail. at Lowes etc) under snap caps etc and it does a pretty good job without using silicone but I think the 4200 still would be better
Joe

3M Products...read the Products specs;
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...6EVs6E666666--
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:18 AM   #33
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If I'm understanding the date sheets. it looks likethe 3M 4200 will be the best bet for something that may/will have to be removed at a later date.

Also, as alcohol can cause bonding problems with the 5200, it may also cause problems with tyhe 4200. So,Acetone might be a better solution. Something else to try!

Joe Z, where in Lowes did you find the PL Polyeurethane. I know they have sealer products in the "Roofing" area and again with caulks, silicone and so forth. Was it in either one of those places, or another?

Thanks,
Kip
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:09 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Kip in Ga.;239547

[B
Joe Z[/B], where in Lowes did you find the PL Polyeurethane. I know they have sealer products in the "Roofing" area and again with caulks, silicone and so forth. Was it in either one of those places, or another?

Thanks,
Kip
I got it (PL Polyeurethane "White") in the regular caulk section which is at the paint department......
In the roofing dept they have a clear, self leveling caulk that is used in gutter leaks and it contains butyl but i only use that in certain applications as it will actually run down the side of the trailer...... I would stay with the PL or the 4200.
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:19 AM   #35
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I got it (PL Polyeurethane "White") in the regular caulk section which is at the paint department......
In the roofing dept they have a clear, self leveling caulk that is used in gutter leaks and it contains butyl but i only use that in certain applications as it will actually run down the side of the trailer...... I would stay with the PL or the 4200.
Joe

Okay, Thanks!

Does it have a fairly long storage once the nozzel tip is opened, if a tight fitting nail or something is inserted into the nozzel?

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Old 03-07-2011, 10:02 AM   #36
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Okay, Thanks!

Does it have a fairly long storage once the nozzel tip is opened, if a tight fitting nail or something is inserted into the nozzel?

Kip
Yes it does last fairly long..... I have a caulk saver tip (which i can't find any longer) so i sometimes use a 1/4" thick nail that is about six inches long and that works fine. They also make a smaller squeeze tube of the same stuff that has a screw on cap....
If you get it lay a bead out on cardboard and a bead of silicone and let it sit a few days and then peel it off the cardboard and feel the difference.... still nice and flexible.... just better.
Joe
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:04 AM   #37
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Yes it does last fairly long..... I have a caulk saver tip (which i can't find any longer) so i sometimes use a 1/4" thick nail that is about six inches long and that works fine.
If you get it lay a bead out on cardboard and a bead of silicone and let it sit a few days and then peel it off the cardboard and feel the difference.... still nice a flexible just better.
Joe

Thanks Joe.

I'll be going to Lowes today.

Kip
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:12 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Joe Z View Post
Yes it does last fairly long..... I have a caulk saver tip (which i can't find any longer) so i sometimes use a 1/4" thick nail that is about six inches long and that works fine. They also make a smaller squeeze tube of the same stuff that has a screw on cap....just better.
Joe
I found a caulk saver a few months ago at Harbor Freight.

Caulk Saver

Regards,

Matt
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:32 PM   #39
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Matt.....
I've been looking in all the big name hardware stores with no luck. I have a harbor freight store just three miles from me. Will definitely be there tomorrow and pick up a couple.
Thanks,
Joe
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Old 03-08-2011, 06:52 AM   #40
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Going to order a few caulk savers also.

Got some of the (Locktite) PL Polyurethane window Door and Siding Sealant yesterday, from Lowes.

It is denifinately thick. Had to do a lot of jabbing with the nail into the inside seal, and it still took a lot of pressure to get it started from the snout. Hope I didn't get a bad batch.

For comparison I used asetone to clean the inside of 2 snap caps, the top of 2 rivits and a small section of the trailer (gel coat). Applied the PL and silicone and labeled them. That was around 3ish yeaterday. Will check them around noon today for tenacity.

Kip
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:04 AM   #41
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Kip....
I never had a problem with the PL Polyurethane being too thick? It always flowed just like any other caulk.
Any chance the tube was left out in the cold for a while? Or it may be an old batch and all their tubes will be the same?
Beside the full size tube i keep the small squeeze size for rivet repairs etc. for small fixes.
Joe
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:35 AM   #42
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Kip....
I never had a problem with the PL Polyurethane being too thick? It always flowed just like any other caulk.
Any chance the tube was left out in the cold for a while? Or it may be an old batch and all their tubes will be the same?
Beside the full size tube i keep the small squeeze size for rivet repairs etc. for small fixes.
Joe
This is definitely THICK. Didn't want to turn loose from the snout when applying (dabbing) it yesterday.

Concerned the test won't be valid if this PL is old.
Think I'll return it and see if hey have a different batch. Can't find a "lot" number. This is the first time I've had a problem with a locktite product.

I didn't see any in a squeeze tube. Will look again today.

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