Screw holes? - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-22-2011, 12:44 PM   #57
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Have the Marine Grade white PC-11 Epoxy Paste made by PC-Products it is an a+b mix. Hope to fill and drill to fix hinges; also have new hinge bolts. Will try to clean area with methyl ethyl ketone as stated above to ensure bond. Package says will work on wet surfaces and that it works under water; plus for oil, gas and water tanks. Maybe good to have in emergency kit while traveling.

P.S. have used larger cans of PC-Products in the past to glue things together very thick needs to be warm to work with can be flush as no visible shrinkage only difference is this is the Marine grade.
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:05 PM   #58
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George R
Thanks for the link on closed-end pop rivets

Life is a continuous learning journey
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:12 PM   #59
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I've used PC11 extensively for patching jobs inside and out and it works really well. When cured it seems harder than the fiberglass itself. I've found denatured alcohol is good for cleanup and providing a smooth finish to the epoxy before it's set.
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:19 PM   #60
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Thanks for the tip ThomasE we have denatured alcohol in cupboard.
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:23 PM   #61
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Still waiting for the weather here to do some work -7 c / 19.4 f today.
Snow is almost gone.
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:47 PM   #62
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Kip, our new to us Scamp(96) has allot of missing bases and caps with exposed rivets. I'm hoping Scamp used the closed end rivets to help water not find its way in...so far its dry but who knows since most are behind the ratfur insulation on the inside. I read about all your tests...did you decide on what works best without removing and installing new rivets? I would like to seal mine up and stick new caps on all missing ones...
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:32 PM   #63
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Kip, our new to us Scamp(96) has allot of missing bases and caps with exposed rivets. I'm hoping Scamp used the closed end rivets to help water not find its way in...so far its dry but who knows since most are behind the ratfur insulation on the inside. I read about all your tests...did you decide on what works best without removing and installing new rivets? I would like to seal mine up and stick new caps on all missing ones...
Baj,
All my rivits have holes exposed on the outside. So this fix is for that type. I also use white 100% silicone (ACE) for the sealer because it works well for me. I've done about 12 so far and they are holding well.
Be sure to clean the rivet and fiberglass with denatured alchohol before starting.

I tap the shaft out of a 3/16 inch "Arrow" or "Ace" brand rivet because the crimp that keeps them in the tube is near the ball. With a smaller diameter nail or rivet measure the depth of the hole in the rivet to revieve the cap.

Cut the rivet shaft near the ball so that it is shorter than the depth of the hole it is going into. You may have to dress the cut part as it may have flattened a bit and not want to go in the hole. A bench grinder or dremel tool with a stone works good for this.

The shaft should slip into the camper's rivet hole until it encounters the crimp.

Then tap lightly until the ball is resting snuggly on the camper rivet top. If there is a gap between the ball and the top of the camper rivet, the cap may not snap on the base.

Enlarge the smaller hole in the base so that it will slip (snap) over the camper rivet head and lay against the fiberglass. Put it in place for fit. At this time be sure the ball is not higher than the top of the base. If it is use pliers to remove it and either grind the ball a bit flatter or use another shaft.

Remove the base and put sealer of your choice on the camper rivet and slightly on the fiberglass around the rivet for the water seal.

Push the base down until it touches the fiberglass.

Fill the base with sealer

Snap on the cap. Push hard! There will be a distinct click when the cap seats properly.

Push on the top of the cap with one finger and wipe off any sealer that squashed out when the base was seated and the cap snapped in place.

FWIW: My holes all seem to the the same depth so I generally prepare several rivet shafts and several bases at a time. The shafts take about 3 minutes each and the bases take about 5 minutes each. Takes about an hour to do 8 pair.

Silicone adheres to gel coat but not strong enough to be used as a glue. It adheres pretty strong to the rivit top and the rivet shaft, especially when it encompances the ball. So when the base is filled with silicone, the ridge around the bottom makes it hard to lift it off once the silicone has cured to the rivet and the shaft ball.

Time ,heat, cold, and sun will tell if this fix is a good one. certainly not as good as drilling out the rivet and replacing it and the base. But it can be done by one person, and quickly once the learning curve is done. If I ever start drilling out those particular rivets they will be replaced with SS screws and SS acorn nuts.

Many people say silicone damages or changes the structure of gel coat.
I don't know. I called Casita and asked what they use. He said they use 100% silicone all over the trailer. 100% with no additives. I don't know if white is an additive or not. I use it because it doesn't start looking funky like the clear does.

Good luck,
Kip
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:10 PM   #64
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Baj, what Kip mentions about drilling the rivet out and replacing with new ones and the cap ring and cap is good advise. I would suggest that you would be much better off in the long run to just drill out the rivets that are missing the holders and caps and replace them - due to the age of your trailer it would not suprise me if some of your rivets are in need of a complete change out. With the trailer movement sometimes the rivets will break right off or become a bit loose. Once you have done one you will find its not really all that hard to do. Big thing to remember is to always use a drill bit smaller than the rivet you are taking out. Yup you need two people to put the ones that have acorn nuts on the inside back in but if you drill them all out first you will find putting them back in goes pretty fast. Sometimes though you will find they spin in the hole while getting them out - if that happens it does help to have someone hold the rivet with grips on the other side.
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:51 AM   #65
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Do you need to remove the rat fur to get at them?
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:08 AM   #66
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Baj, what Kip mentions about drilling the rivet out and replacing with new ones and the cap ring and cap is good advise. I would suggest that you would be much better off in the long run to just drill out the rivets that are missing the holders and caps and replace them - due to the age of your trailer it would not suprise me if some of your rivets are in need of a complete change out. With the trailer movement sometimes the rivets will break right off or become a bit loose. Once you have done one you will find its not really all that hard to do. Big thing to remember is to always use a drill bit smaller than the rivet you are taking out. Yup you need two people to put the ones that have acorn nuts on the inside back in but if you drill them all out first you will find putting them back in goes pretty fast. Sometimes though you will find they spin in the hole while getting them out - if that happens it does help to have someone hold the rivet with grips on the other side.
I agree that with an older trailer it is a good thing to replace the rivets, as they may have loosened. So far I haven't found any that even resembled being loose on this 8 year old model.

When removing the old ones, the drill bit size is extremely important. The head has to be cut off without drilling into the tube itself. I had to install a Fantastic Fan's base gasket. There are something like 28 rivets holding it in place and 4 more inside. Most of those rivets chose to spin. Fortunately I had a helper. We replaced the rivets with SS screws and self locking nuts.

My used Casita came with a bag of caps, bases and 3/16" rivets. Assuming the previous owner ordered them from Casita. They seem to be a bit stronger than the Arrow/Ace brands. This observation came from cutting the shafts with side cutters. Ones from Casita were harder to cut. Might be a good idea to use the rivets from the factory if replacing them.

With two knowledgeable people, rivet and base replacement can be as fast or faster than the total time it takes to make the "pairs" (enlarge the base holes, cut the rivet shafts) and install them. However we don't always have two people, a drill and proper size bits, and a rivet tool, handy. Once the "pairs" are made up, installation is quick, by one person.

If/when any of my "fixes" turns loose, the rivets will be drilled out and replaced. If I can find a willing helper.

Kip
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:21 AM   #67
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Do you need to remove the rat fur to get at them?
On our Casita, As far as I can tell the rivets that have Caps are visible on the inside with an acorn nut installed. There may be some that are "hidden".

I don't know about the Scamps.

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Old 05-18-2011, 08:53 AM   #68
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Do you need to remove the rat fur to get at them?
No, drill them out... some or most will push through between the body and the reflex. The ones for the cabinets, probably have an acron nut on them. It may require two people, one to drill and one to hold the nut. Then it takes two people to refast. Reverse the process.

Frankly, I'd check them to see if still viable before just willy-nilly having at it. In my 23 year old Scamp, about 80% of the rivits are original. Solid and don't leak. YMMV
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Old 05-18-2011, 09:02 AM   #69
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The ones that are still solid and dont leak do they still have caps or are the rivets exposed? Do you know if scamp used closed end rivets to prevent water coming through? I dont think any of mine are leaking but was concerned.about the missing caps leaving exposed rivets.
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:19 PM   #70
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no Scamp does not use closed end rivets, only ones that are hidden (behind rat fur) are the marker lights, taillights at least on my 96 16ft
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