screws holding shell to frame - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-20-2015, 12:32 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Sue and Henry's Avatar
 
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 575
Registry
screws holding shell to frame

I'm replacing a little over a fourth of my burro floor due to dry rot. On the burro the floor is attached to the frame and then the shell is attached to the fiberglass enclosed floor. I'g getting ready to remove the large screws going from inside floor down through the frame. They are screws, not bolts. Is that normal? It seems like that would be weaker than bolts. If it i normal, then can I reuse the holes or will I need to relocate to new spots? I don't want to weaken the frame with unnecessary holes if possible.
__________________

__________________
Sue and Henry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 01:08 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 4,330
Maybe they are the floor screws as used on the wood floors of freight trailers and box trucks. Those are generally a self tapping screw. I've seen them in 1/4-20 thread, and others in some odd thread that no nut will fit. They were probably used to speed up production, less time than installing a bolt and nut. You will have to see if they are reusable, good threads, but I would use bolts myself
__________________

__________________
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 02:55 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Sue and Henry's Avatar
 
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 575
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Maybe they are the floor screws as used on the wood floors of freight trailers and box trucks. Those are generally a self tapping screw. I've seen them in 1/4-20 thread, and others in some odd thread that no nut will fit. They were probably used to speed up production, less time than installing a bolt and nut. You will have to see if they are reusable, good threads, but I would use bolts myself
Thank you Mary and Bob,
The Burro is 33 years old now and the screws look original and tired. Bolts it is
Sue
Attached Thumbnails
photo.JPG  
__________________
Sue and Henry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 04:04 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 4,330
Those are not the floor screws I was thinking of. Uhaul campers, which are very similar to your Burro, used an "elevator" bolt to hold the body to the frame. Similar to a carriage bolt but with a bigger and flatter head. Available at the big box hardware / lumber stores, they are also commonly used on roll up (overhead) doors on box trucks and freight trailers
__________________
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 04:57 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Sue and Henry's Avatar
 
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 575
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Those are not the floor screws I was thinking of. Uhaul campers, which are very similar to your Burro, used an "elevator" bolt to hold the body to the frame. Similar to a carriage bolt but with a bigger and flatter head. Available at the big box hardware / lumber stores, they are also commonly used on roll up (overhead) doors on box trucks and freight trailers
Okay - so I looked online and found this. It gives a choice between split washers and flat washers with the nut. Does one have an advantage? I am going to use locknut goop in hopes that the bolt doesn't shake unscrewed.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Sue and Henry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 05:24 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 4,330
That's about it, although odd color. Here's what I use most of the time, the two nuts to the top have an attached star type lock washer, commonly referred to as a "keps nut". I've seen them under another name that I don't recall. The nut at the end of the bolt is a nylon lock nut, or nylock. Good, but used in your case once the nut got on the bolt to the nylon lock part then most likely the bolt would turn in the floor. Either use the keps nuts or the common split lock washer. We used the keps nuts and elevator bolts all the time on roll up doors when I worked in a truck shop, so that's what I'm used to.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0553.jpg  
__________________
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 07:01 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Sue and Henry's Avatar
 
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 575
Registry
Mary and Bob,
Thank you so much. This was not something I wanted to screw up!
Sue
__________________
Sue and Henry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 07:08 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 4,330
If body bolts are in storage areas, not on the part of the floor where you would walk, you could use a regular bolt with a "fender" washer under the head. Fender washer is a large diameter but small hole, available for various size bolts.
__________________
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 07:52 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Sue and Henry's Avatar
 
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 575
Registry
Its about 50/50 - floor/storage. I am going to put a second layer of plywood (not fiberglass covered) over the walking area on the shell lip that screws into the fiber covered ply. Since the heads won't be against the final floor finish, would the big washers add strength (is that why you gave me the option for the storage areas)?
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0947.jpg  
Attached Images
 
__________________
Sue and Henry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 08:16 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 4,330
The big washers would give slightly more surface area but then you would have a bolt head sticking up, as opposed to a flush to the floor head with the elevator bolt. You would only use a bolt and fender washer in the storage areas where it doesn't affect the "living area" flooring. I have some fender washers that are 2" diameter with a 1/4" hole. Elevator bolt head is 1 1/8" diameter
__________________
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2015, 09:20 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Sue and Henry's Avatar
 
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 575
Registry
Oh - that is plenty of surface. Thanks
__________________
Sue and Henry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2015, 12:27 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Trailer: 2000 Burro 17 ft / 2001 Toyota Tundra V8 2wd
Posts: 322
Registry
I replaced all the lag screws (your first picture) on my Burro with galvanized 1/4" carriage bolts and lock washers/nuts. You could also use a regular washer and nylon locking nuts. I priced out stainless parts and it was pretty pricey and less available than galvanized stuff, which should last longer than the original lag screws. I got all my stuff from home depot or lowes, don't remember which. It was pretty easy to do, I did have to drill out each hole in the frame a tiny bit with a 1/4" drill bit.
__________________
ThomasE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2015, 07:09 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Sue and Henry's Avatar
 
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 575
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasE View Post
I replaced all the lag screws (your first picture) on my Burro with galvanized 1/4" carriage bolts and lock washers/nuts. You could also use a regular washer and nylon locking nuts. I priced out stainless parts and it was pretty pricey and less available than galvanized stuff, which should last longer than the original lag screws. I got all my stuff from home depot or lowes, don't remember which. It was pretty easy to do, I did have to drill out each hole in the frame a tiny bit with a 1/4" drill bit.

Thanks Thomas. I think I am ready to start the fiberglassing then bolt the thing together. I just really want to go camping and this process is so slow with me at the helm!
Sue


Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
__________________

__________________
Sue and Henry is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Removing Coach Shell from frame ADK burro bret Modifications, Alterations and Updates 4 08-14-2013 08:17 PM
screws or rivets Tim M Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 1 06-23-2008 01:28 PM
Separating shell from frame Roddy D Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 3 05-25-2008 04:06 PM
Thumb Screws for Refriderator Panel Joe Loiacono Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 6 06-27-2007 09:40 AM
Replacing screws in Trillium door Kevin Falk Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 0 05-28-2007 10:24 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:16 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.