|
|
07-14-2013, 03:59 PM
|
#1
|
Junior Member
Name: anne
Trailer: Scamp
Texas
Posts: 29
|
Shelves in the closet
My husband and I just bought a 13' Scamp - LOVE IT!!! However, we really want to put sturdy shelves in the closet so we can use it as a pantry of sorts. Has anybody done this, and if so, what did you use and where did you get it???? THANKS!!!! Anne & Aaron
|
|
|
07-14-2013, 05:40 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Name: Chris
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 291
|
I bought a pine board for $20, cut it up, stained it and made shelves out of it.
I made a cut out in the bottom shelf so I can store things underneath.
all the details are on my site OurBoler, Family Outdoor Adventures or on the thread here with the same name.
I have also seen wire rack shelves installed and Ikea bin holders installed, both seem to work well.
Good luck with the project
|
|
|
07-14-2013, 05:49 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
|
I put 1/4" plywood on the sides with quarter round screwed to it where I wanted my shelves. Made the shelves from 1'4" plywood also. Used a piece of masonite that I had for the back, but plywood would work there too. Assembled it all in the closet so it can't move. Camping World has under counter drawers so I put one of those under one shelf. A short screw in from each side also helps to hold the whole thing.
|
|
|
07-14-2013, 08:17 PM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Name: Gilda
Trailer: 2011 Scamp 13'
California
Posts: 1,445
|
Installing shelves into the closet was the BEST EVER modification we made to our, then new, Scamp.
My hubby's handy and created a removable shelving system much like Tom's with no drilling or adhesive required. He used four 1"x4" fir uprights that were cut in 2 pieces each and screwed together so as to fit in the tall upright space. He drilled holes spaced about 2' apart to hold metal shelf clips Engineered Product Company (EPCO) 520-NN - Shelf Clip with 1/4" (6mm) Pin - EACH (Nickel) - The Hardware Hut. The shelves themselves are 1/4" thick plywood. The bottom shelf lifts much like the hatches in the original seats to access storage in the wheel well. Sorry, no photos.
__________________
The Gleeful Glamper
Gilda (Jill-da)
"Here we go again on another amazing adventure"
|
|
|
08-16-2013, 01:49 PM
|
#6
|
Junior Member
Name: anne
Trailer: Scamp
Texas
Posts: 29
|
Thanks y'all! We tried gluing supports to the closet walls but the TX heat melted that pretty quickly, so we ended up drilling holes in the fiberglass and mounting them "properly"! They work wonderfully and we love them!!
|
|
|
08-16-2013, 07:59 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by azooey73
Thanks y'all! We tried gluing supports to the closet walls but the TX heat melted that pretty quickly, so we ended up drilling holes in the fiberglass and mounting them "properly"! They work wonderfully and we love them!!
|
glad you found and are using a solution that works for you!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
|
|
|
08-17-2013, 08:04 AM
|
#8
|
Member
Name: Drew
Trailer: 1987 Scamp 16ft, Layout 4
Minnesota
Posts: 77
|
For shelves in our closet I balanced not wanting to drill into the fiberglass sides in case I want to adjust shelf height later and the floor/bottom of the closet was extremely flimsy and wouldn't support much.
The top rod for hanging clothes was run perpendicular to the side of the scamp and is sturdier than the base of the closet.
Shelves were built from the top down using a bit of rope and plywood cut to fit with holes drilled at the corners.
|
|
|
11-06-2013, 08:29 PM
|
#9
|
Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 13' Scamp
California
Posts: 35
|
Those are nice looking shelves Chris, but I'm curious what you did to keep them up. I can't tell from the pictures.
|
|
|
11-06-2013, 09:06 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Name: Hazel
Trailer: Trillium
Saskatchewan
Posts: 588
|
We too have plywood closet shelves. Ours are fully adjustable though. We attached metal shelf holders to both sides of the closet with pop rivets. There are wee brackets that slip into slots in the metal uprights to hold the shelves. We didn't put the bottom shelf at the lowest point and slip the rubber boots and spare shoes down into the bottom. There is a name for this mounting system - but I don't know it! Hubby got everything needed from the local lumberyard/hardware store in our small town.
We left the rod in the closet in case (when we eventually sell) the new owner wants a hanging closet.
|
|
|
11-06-2013, 09:59 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Name: Chris
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 291
|
I used pine planks and lath screws. The lath screws went in through the fiberglass side and into the shelf. It is strong, the screw bits well into fiberglass and wood, as well as looking more finished than most screws seem to in fiberglass.
Since I have also added a shelf in the top and used a hole saw to access it, this cleaned up all the clutter than found itself on the counter.
|
|
|
11-07-2013, 02:13 AM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
|
Chris, what a great idea! Have not seen anyone do that before.
|
|
|
11-07-2013, 10:12 AM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Name: Chris
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
Posts: 291
|
Thanks Carol, it works great.
|
|
|
11-07-2013, 10:30 AM
|
#14
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
|
For those considering adding shelves I highly recommend putting some sort of lip on the front of the shelves to prevent things from sliding up and hitting the door when traveling - it will cause the door to pop open when traveling.
I used wire shelves upside down to create a lip and they work well. Was able to clip and bend the wires at the back to match the shape of the trailer walls. I did mount rails on the sides of the cabinet to allow the shelves to be moved up or down. Needed to moving them several times until I found the position that worked best for what I store on them. When mounting the rails I used Scamp snap caps and holders over the screw heads that were visible on the outside of the fiberglass cabinets. Just as is done at the factory. Hard to tell from the outside that they were not always there.
Dont mind my messy shelves - photo was taken during the middle of camping season. Thats my excuse and I am sticking to it!
|
|
|
11-07-2013, 09:16 PM
|
#15
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 82 Burro
Posts: 111
|
Dear Nelmes,
This is the first winter mod I'm going to make. I, too, have 10 to 12 empty inches above my clothes rod that's not paying it's own way. For many years I've been scratching my head regarding how I can use that space. You're a creative genius.
Thanks for sharing,
Shirley
|
|
|
02-02-2014, 09:27 AM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Name: Derek
Trailer: 1973 boler 13', Earlton On
Ontario
Posts: 396
|
Shelf shapes
Adding shelves seems to be a common mod.
For those of you who did this with plywood and a track type system, how did you measure for the size of the shelves? With our curved walls, the bottom shelf should be a little bigger than the top one. Did you just go for an average size and tolerate the fact that there may be a gap? I have made some cardboard templates, and ideally each shelf will be slightly different in shape. If each shelf is different, the track system doesnt really work. Thoughts?
Rubbermaid | 48 Inch Fast Track Upright | Home Depot Canada
Also, is there any concern with weight inside the closet? This closet structure isn't really designed to support shelves full of cooking supplies. Thoughts?
Derek
|
|
|
02-02-2014, 09:55 AM
|
#17
|
Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
|
I built side walls of 1/4" plywood, used 1/4 round wood strips for the shelves to set on, another piece of plywood for the back. The sides set on the bottom of the closet. I had to assemble it inside the closet because the door opening is narrower than the closet side walls. Found it is important to have a back because we are camping in cool weather at times, down to 20F, and with heat on the walls sweat. We use part of the closet for clothes, so need to keep them away from the outer wall. Under one shelf we installed a plastic under cabinet drawer from Camping World for small kitchen utensils.
|
|
|
02-02-2014, 10:54 AM
|
#18
|
Senior Member
Name: Derek
Trailer: 1973 boler 13', Earlton On
Ontario
Posts: 396
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
I built side walls of 1/4" plywood, used 1/4 round wood strips for the shelves to set on, another piece of plywood for the back. The sides set on the bottom of the closet. I had to assemble it inside the closet because the door opening is narrower than the closet side walls. Found it is important to have a back because we are camping in cool weather at times, down to 20F, and with heat on the walls sweat. We use part of the closet for clothes, so need to keep them away from the outer wall. Under one shelf we installed a plastic under cabinet drawer from Camping World for small kitchen utensils.
|
Wow. I do like the sound of this but it is more ambitious then i was really planning to go. Adding plywood walls certainly would make the structure more solid. I like the sound of the utensil drawer.
Derek
|
|
|
02-02-2014, 11:13 AM
|
#19
|
Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
|
What I did is not that complicated, and is basically a free standing unit when assembled in the closet. I did put a couple screws in from each side to secure it. The drawers are available from Camping World, and I may have seen them at Amazon too. The ad shows two drawers, but the price of about $20 is for only one. I also have one under our front couch as a "junk" drawer. They are very shallow, so can't put anything big in them. They slide on plastic rails that attach under a shelf or cabinet.
|
|
|
02-02-2014, 11:22 AM
|
#20
|
Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
|
I looked up the drawers, Camping World has them on sale, "add a drawer, item #38133," $18.99. They have a roll out shelf, item #57022, that I installed in the space where our furnace was, made a front with a turn latch for it. Lowes sells a similar item but was too wide for my space. Camping World also has a deeper, wider, shorter under cabinet drawer, plastic.
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
Similar Threads
|
Thread |
Thread Starter |
Forum |
Replies |
Last Post |
Closet shelves
|
rgrugg |
Modifications, Alterations and Updates |
3 |
08-18-2012 08:04 AM |
Shelves in closet?
|
Michael Pupeza |
Modifications, Alterations and Updates |
2 |
01-09-2010 03:45 PM |
Added shelves to closet
|
Susan J. |
Modifications, Alterations and Updates |
24 |
09-18-2008 02:17 PM |
Wire closet shelves
|
Roy in TO |
Modifications, Alterations and Updates |
0 |
09-29-2007 12:52 PM |
Closet shelves
|
Kenny&Jackie |
Modifications, Alterations and Updates |
11 |
07-11-2007 06:45 AM |
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
» Upcoming Events |
No events scheduled in the next 465 days.
|
|