|
|
05-07-2017, 08:58 AM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Name: R.T.
Trailer: Big Foot
Georgia
Posts: 197
|
Shocked
Hello we have a new to us 2011 19' scamp. After I plugged it into 110 house current I touched the landing gear and got a nice shock a few days later the same thing happened. Can anybody tell me where to start looking for the problem and or how to solve it? Thanks
|
|
|
05-07-2017, 09:20 AM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Florida
Posts: 1,693
|
Have you tried plugging it into a different outlet, even if you have to use a long extension cord. It could be the outlet you are using is wired incorrectly.
|
|
|
05-07-2017, 09:27 AM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
|
This is a re-post from the other Shocked Thread:
Start with o e of these: https://t.harborfreight.com/electric...sis-32907.html
Plug it in to the receptacle where you plug in the extension cord of the camper and if you get good lights then remove it and plug in the extension cord and now go to the camper. Hop on to the step of the camper so you will not have a foot on the ground. Now take the tester and plug it into a receptacle in the camper and see if you have the correct lights on.
Here is what I think the problem is, you have the Hot side of the wiring going to the ground side of the camper and that can be because of a wiring problem where you plug in the extension cord or within the camper its self.
I have seen this problem many times on military vans while in the army.
Wiring, White to lite (Meaning the white wire connects to the silver screw on the plug and receptacle) and Green is ground the world around. So, that leaves the black hot wire that always connects to the brass screw.
Darwin Maring is online now Report Post
|
|
|
05-07-2017, 09:32 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
|
Please post what you find out.
|
|
|
05-08-2017, 10:44 AM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Name: R.T.
Trailer: Big Foot
Georgia
Posts: 197
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring
Please post what you find out.
|
I will let you know asap. I have put the camper in storage and as soon as I bring it home I will start checking. Thanks
|
|
|
05-08-2017, 01:07 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
|
Sure would like to know what they find out.
|
|
|
05-10-2017, 12:57 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Name: R.T.
Trailer: Big Foot
Georgia
Posts: 197
|
Well the strangest thing happened. I brought the trailer home from storage and and plugged it in using a different extension cord. Touched the landing gear and received a mild shock Nothing had changed.Went into the trailer and turned the fridge on then off and unplugged then plugged the cord back in in the wardrobe. Came inside to read the post under Scamp and decided to go back out and touch the steps. No shock. Felt all under the step area including the frame but not shocked. Went around to the landing gear and touched them and now NO SHOCK. Now I don't know what to do.
|
|
|
05-10-2017, 01:14 PM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
|
was this shock a 'buzz' or a single zap ? if the latter, it may just have been static electricity buildup, and nothing to do with the extension cord. a shock from an AC circuit will be a strong 60 cycle BUZZZ
get one of those AC plug ground testers, these look like a plug with 3 lights. like this...
plug that into an outlet on your trailer when its plugged into the extension cord. if it shows any faults, plug it in where the extension cord is plugged in, also plug it into the end of the extension cord... if the original outlet is bad, its electrician time. if the outlet is OK but the end of the extension cord is bad, cut up and toss that cord. if the cord and outlet is good but the outlets in the trailer are bad, its a wiring problem on the AC side of the trailer, and should be fixed!
|
|
|
05-10-2017, 01:40 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
|
You are lucky because what you did is dangerious.
Do the tests that were posted and be safe.
|
|
|
05-10-2017, 01:46 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Name: R.T.
Trailer: Big Foot
Georgia
Posts: 197
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
was this shock a 'buzz' or a single zap ? if the latter, it may just have been static electricity buildup, and nothing to do with the extension cord. a shock from an AC circuit will be a strong 60 cycle BUZZZ
get one of those AC plug ground testers, these look like a plug with 3 lights. like this...
plug that into an outlet on your trailer when its plugged into the extension cord. if it shows any faults, plug it in where the extension cord is plugged in, also plug it into the end of the extension cord... if the original outlet is bad, its electrician time. if the outlet is OK but the end of the extension cord is bad, cut up and toss that cord. if the cord and outlet is good but the outlets in the trailer are bad, its a wiring problem on the AC side of the trailer, and should be fixed!
|
It was a buzz not a zap.
Will go to the store and look for the tester. Thanks
|
|
|
05-10-2017, 02:11 PM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,046
|
That is sounding like the issue might be in the electrical inlet you plug your extension cord into. I would remove it and inspect check to make sure the wires are properly secured in the correct positions and that there are no broken wires.
The other factor could be the extension cord you are using. How old is it? I recently cut into an old heavy duty extension cord I was putting a new plug end on so I could have it to use with a 30 amp end on it. That old cord had been used out of doors over the years. What I discovered was that the wiring inside of the cord had corrosion throughout much of its length. Of course the plugs on the ends of cords can also get worn out and overtime strain on the plugs can cause wires to break.
Rule of thumb when diagnosing issues with electrical appliances such as a computer, always check the physical connections first which means starting with where it plugs in
|
|
|
05-10-2017, 05:47 PM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Name: R.T.
Trailer: Big Foot
Georgia
Posts: 197
|
Bought the little meter and checked the wall outlet and it showed hot/neutral reversed. Fixed it and the little meter checked good. Still had problem. Turned all breakers off including the main and still had a charge coming off the landing gear. Have a volt meter set on ac red probe to landing gear black probe in the earth and it shows about 100 volts. The previous owner has changed the power hookup to a marine connection but everything looks good there. I stopped for the night.
|
|
|
05-10-2017, 05:53 PM
|
#14
|
Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
|
use your volt meter to check for ground potential back at the outlet... if the building ground isn't properly grounded at the mains point of entry, ugh, whole house is a hazard.
neutral is supposed to be tied to ground at the main panel, and nowhere else. if hot and neutral are swapped, all kinda wrong going on.
|
|
|
05-10-2017, 09:34 PM
|
#15
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
|
Take that tester then You must start the test at the receptacle where you plug in the extension cord to the house receptacle and if ok there, Then plug in the extension cord and go to the other end of the cord and check there and if ok then connect extension cord to the camper then check each receptacle in the camper.
Netural and ground are more than likely bonded together in the camper.
|
|
|
05-10-2017, 09:52 PM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 2,941
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring
Netural and ground are more than likely bonded together in the camper.
|
they shouldn't be. ground (green or bare copper) should be tied to the trailer frame, live (black) and neutral (white) should be fully isolated.
|
|
|
05-11-2017, 06:04 AM
|
#17
|
Senior Member
Name: R.T.
Trailer: Big Foot
Georgia
Posts: 197
|
If I understand it right power comes into the breaker box first and then it's distributed to the various circuits. If the main breaker is turned off how can the frame still be charged?
|
|
|
05-11-2017, 08:07 AM
|
#18
|
Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 721
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by R.T.
[snip]
how can the frame still be charged?
|
Jumping in late here but I have read from the beginning.
What main breaker did you turn off, your house or camper?
Sounds like before somebody gets killed you should hire an electrician
Joe
|
|
|
05-11-2017, 08:18 AM
|
#19
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
|
I agree with Joe. Should the conditions be right, someone could be electrocuted.
|
|
|
05-11-2017, 08:24 AM
|
#20
|
Senior Member
Name: R.T.
Trailer: Big Foot
Georgia
Posts: 197
|
It's the main breaker in the trailer.
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
Similar Threads
|
Thread |
Thread Starter |
Forum |
Replies |
Last Post |
shocked
|
rosey45385 |
Electrical | Charging, Systems, Solar and Generators |
16 |
09-02-2013 04:33 PM |
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
» Upcoming Events |
No events scheduled in the next 465 days.
|
|