Should it stay or go?

[Legacy Posts]

Ok, the thing leaks like a sieve. I am seriously thinking that I will take it off. All the rivets are rusted through and every one of them leaks into the interior. (Along with every other rivet on the thing, but that’s another battle….)

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eea548595bb4outside.jpg/>

If I were to buy a new awning a year or two down the road am I going to regret removing it? Does anyone know what type of awning (in terms for the awning illiterate) this rail would be used with?

[Legacy Posts]

I'm sure if you take your awning track off you will eventually regret it. Since the rivets are rusted out, take the whole track off, clean it up and re-install with new rivets. Put a dab of caulk over each hole. When finished apply a bead of caulk along the whole top of the rail to stop the water from running underneath.

That rail will fit just about any awning you could put on the trailer. Except for maybe the box type.

Nancy

[Legacy Posts]

I want to add such a rail to my scamp. Anyone know the best place to find one?

thanks,

john

[Legacy Posts]

I absolutely agree with Nancy. I'm wanting an awning in the worst way, but don't want to drill the holes. You already have it, take advantage of it. You don't have to use it, but I bet that you will, someday.

I think once you clean it up and reinstall it (which will be easy since you already have the holes there, it will be trouble free.

If I may suggest, use aluminum rivets when you put it back on. That way you won't have to worry about rust in the future.

[Legacy Posts]

Orginally posted by John Linck

I want to add such a rail to my scamp. Anyone know the best place to find one?

thanks,

john

John. You can get them at just about any RV place that sells awnings. On line or local. Usually, it is sold by the foot. I believe JC Whitney sells it in 4 foot sections.

[Legacy Posts]

Ok, Suz has convinced me to reinstall it, since the holes are there already. In my research from old topics this is what I am planning to do:

1. Remove and clean up old rail
2. Apply butyl tape
3. Apply 3M 5200 adhesive to the holes and rivets
4. Reinstall rail with aluminum rivets
5. Apply some more 5200 to the rivet heads
6. Apply caulk along top edge of rail where it meets the glass

2 questions:

Where the heck do I find butyl tape? I went to 3, yes 3 hardware stores in Red Deer and only 1 of them even knew what I was talking about (but they were sold out, or he couldn’t find it or something) Is this the same as plumber’s putty?

Is 3M 5200 the best way to go with the sealant? What are other people using in the rivet holes?

[Legacy Posts]

We got the butyl tape at the local hardware. It is called strip caulk or reusable weather seal. We just make sure we get the white which I think means it is butyl. I'm no expert.

[Legacy Posts]

Lainey:
I recently bought butyl tape at an RV dealer's parts department. They had
rolls of both butyl tape and putty tape. As someone else has mentioned
somewhere recently, you can use either, but the butyl tape is supposed to
be less prone to dry out over time.

[Legacy Posts]

Hi gang...we bought special silicone for RV use...was exepnsive but works great for areas like the rail for the awning and others additonal items like installing a new water hookup peice.

[Legacy Posts]

I ended up buying DAP brand "Butyl-Flex Rubber Sealant"

Comes in a caulking gun type tube, white or grey, is waterproof, and paintable. Remains flexible from -40 to +82 degrees C. I found it at TOTEM, but most hardware stores probably have it. Haven't used it yet, but it looks like it should be just the ticket.

[Legacy Posts]

I did the all over town hunt for butyl tape, too. the first harware store knew about it, but was out. the next three had no idea what I was talking about. then my brain kicked in and reminded me of the time I bought a black tank vent cover and the RV store furnished me with butyl tape. and they had some. Yeaaaa. :jump-r