Smart Jack and Tailgate competition

[pachewheels]

Hello, Thanks everyone, for the great info and shared help always being provided for others in need. Anyway, just took delivery of our FG trailer and the only problem I have encountered, is the lack of space to bring my truck tail gate all the way down, when hitched up, due to the electric Smart Jack on the trailer. Seems I had seen a post where someone had rotated the jack sideways, maybe backwards? I've been searching several forums and cannot find information or suggestions on what to safely do, and I only need about an inch more of room. I hate to think that I have to unhitch each time I need to fully open the tail gate. Any suggestions or help from anyone who has had a similar experience would be appreciated. Thanks, again and again.

[WizWid]

Originally Posted by pachewheels

Hello, Thanks everyone, for the great info and shared help always being provided for others in need. Anyway, just took delivery of our FG trailer and the only problem I have encountered, is the lack of space to bring my truck tail gate all the way down, when hitched up, due to the electric Smart Jack on the trailer. Seems I had seen a post where someone had rotated the jack sideways, maybe backwards? I've been searching several forums and cannot find information or suggestions on what to safely do, and I only need about an inch more of room. I hate to think that I have to unhitch each time I need to fully open the tail gate. Any suggestions or help from anyone who has had a similar experience would be appreciated. Thanks, again and again.

Would this work? - You dont say what trailer..... Casita Jack Relocation Plate

Jim

[rbryan]

An extended stinger can also fix the problem. If the square tube on the stinger is long enough, you can just use the one you have, and drill a couple holes an inch or so further toward the end.

[pachewheels]

Originally Posted by widgetwizard

Would this work? - You dont say what trailer..... Casita Jack Relocation Plate

Jim

Its a Bigfoot 25. Hoping to find a simpler fix, but will keep it in mind and research this. Thanks.

[pachewheels]

Originally Posted by rbryan

An extended stinger can also fix the problem. If the square tube on the stinger is long enough, you can just use the one you have, and drill a couple holes an inch or so further toward the end.

This might work. I'll unload the trailer soon and look to see if the stinger ( had to look up that word) has a ready adjustment or choice of holes for the pin. I'll research the safety of drilling a new hole closer to the end. Thanks, rbryan.

[rbryan]

Originally Posted by pachewheels

This might work. I'll unload the trailer soon and look to see if the stinger ( had to look up that word) has a ready adjustment or choice of holes for the pin. I'll research the safety of drilling a new hole closer to the end. Thanks, rbryan.

If it doesn't give you enough material to drill additional holes, extended mounts are available.

[pachewheels]

Originally Posted by rbryan

If it doesn't give you enough material to drill additional holes, extended mounts are available.

Good to know, thanks. I will post the results of what I did, or might do. The trailer will be parked for a few months before I can actually get to it. But it will weigh heavily on my mind until it is actually done or I have a good idea of which direction to go. Thanks.

[grolympia]

same problem w/casita and boat trailer

harbor freight has extender that works like a charm. Plug it into your receiver, plug the ball mount and you're done

10 minutes and $25 (more or less) and you're done

[dmad1]

etrailer.com has longer receiver extensions for around $25. I bought a 12" for my last trailer from an rv dealer without shopping and paid $99. I let it go with the trailer when I sold it but I plan on getting another one for using with the Casita. I have a Tahoe and it also is about 2" short using the 9" extension.

[pachewheels]

Originally Posted by grolympia

same problem w/casita and boat trailer

harbor freight has extender that works like a charm. Plug it into your receiver, plug the ball mount and you're done

10 minutes and $25 (more or less) and you're done

Thanks Gary, another option to ponder.

[pachewheels]

Originally Posted by dmad1

etrailer.com has longer receiver extensions for around $25. I bought a 12" for my last trailer from an rv dealer without shopping and paid $99. I let it go with the trailer when I sold it but I plan on getting another one for using with the Casita. I have a Tahoe and it also is about 2" short using the 9" extension.

Thanks for responding Dick, I will look into this possibility. All suggestions have been great.

[mary and bob]

etrailer states that a hitch extender will reduce the capacity of the vehicle hitch by 50% (the leverage effect). With the heavy tongue weight of our Casita I would definitely not use one. I actually redrilled my ball mount so the ball is closer to the truck bumper. I installed an Ultimate Jack so that I can open the tailgate when connected to the trailer. I know the OP has a power jack so the Ultimate Jack is not a solution for him. I would relocate the power jack.

[dmad1]

It may, but I used it on my 25' Airstream with a weight dist. hitch for 6 years. Don't remember what the tongue weight was but it probably was a lot more that a smaller fiberglass. Seems like it was in the 600 + range. The Airstream dealer is the one that recommended it.

You also need to know what drop you need on it to level the trailer. I couldn't find the right one at HF recently, or at least the one near my house.

[rbryan]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

etrailer states that a hitch extender will reduce the capacity of the vehicle hitch by 50% (the leverage effect). With the heavy tongue weight of our Casita I would definitely not use one. I actually redrilled my ball mount so the ball is closer to the truck bumper. I installed an Ultimate Jack so that I can open the tailgate when connected to the trailer. I know the OP has a power jack so the Ultimate Jack is not a solution for him. I would relocate the power jack.

A hitch extender does reduce the capacity of the hitch, because it moves the weight further away from the hitch. So, as you rightly point out, more leverage is exerted on the hitch assembly. But the claim of a 50% reduction is used for simplicity, and it is referring to the longer extenders that are around 14"-16" - not 1 inch. Will extending your stinger out 1 more inch reduce the hitch capacity? Technically yes, but probably not enough to be significant, and certainly not 50%. I agree also that if you have enough room on your ball mount to remount it further from the vehicle, that will work as well.

[dmad1]

I was also told my etrailers of a reduction but I was asking about mounting a motorcycle carrier on the front of my Tahoe with one of their front mount hitches. They were estimating that the 500 lb. carrier rating would be reduced to 350 lbs. which was still within weight specs of the motorcycle. They were not saying the hitch capacity would be reduced, just the carrier rating.

[mary and bob]

It may have been a 10 or 12 inch extension that I looked at on etrailer. I agree that the 50% reduction is just an arbitrary figure for general information. I've seen it used for those double hitch extenders also. The leverage principal does affect the hitch capacity, but other factors like tongue weight will determine the percentage. The affect of an extension is sometimes overlooked, therefore my comments. Usage is an individual choice.

[rbryan]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

The affect of an extension is sometimes overlooked, therefore my comments. Usage is an individual choice.

Good point, it is worth noting. In some cases (like ours) a reduction in rated capacity wouldn't matter, because we're so far under the max for tongue weight, trailer weight, and hitch rating.

[Jon in AZ]

Stability (sway) can also be affected by moving the ball further back. As with weight, an inch is one thing; a foot is another.

[Wayne Collins]

Originally Posted by rbryan

An extended stinger can also fix the problem. If the square tube on the stinger is long enough, you can just use the one you have, and drill a couple holes an inch or so further toward the end.

Moving the hitch ball back will increase the chance of trailer sway, and increase the weight transfer onto your TV rear axle.

[rbryan]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

Moving the hitch ball back will increase the chance of trailer sway, and increase the weight transfer onto your TV rear axle.

Asked and answered above. We're talking an inch, not a foot. I seriously doubt there would be any discernable difference in handling.