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Old 06-12-2012, 08:05 AM   #1
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Snow or tree damage?

Hello to everyone out there from a Boler newb!
I recently bought a 1975 Boler that was part way through a renovation. Seems it either got hit by a tree or it got squished by snow but I didn't notice this side until I started working on it. The left side is bulging out and deforming the side window. I noticed a couple things, that there was no wrought iron upper cabinet support, and the floor under the left side dinette seating area seems to have dropped a few inches also. Any helpful suggestions on how to whip this egg back into shape would be very much appretiated.




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Old 06-12-2012, 08:16 AM   #2
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Welcome! I have no idea how to help you but know there are lots of folks here who can help. I'd love to see postings of your solutions! Good luck on your renovation.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:52 AM   #3
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More interior pic's needed. To me, and I am not a expert at egg restoration but it sounds more like support wall issue rather than weight from the top. Has it been off it's frame? Shouldn't there be a support in the interior?


Reason I say that is, because you don't speak of any exterior issues, of course it could a combination of all factors. Hopefully one of the restore guys will see this post and help you out. Just seem's like the problem may be interior/frame issue. Snow or tree would probably do glass damage with that much of a bulge. Good luck!


Welcome, glad you found Fiberglassrv, you found a great place! Congat's on your new to you egg. Good luck with the restoration................
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:57 AM   #4
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Hi Paul, my guess is it was most likely a snow load that did that if you dont have a cabinet support - we have a member of our BC group who's Boler's whole roof caved in a few years ago due to snow. Nope he wasnt up north but it was one of those rare deep snow days in Vancouver. :-)

Have no idea how you fix it but if you are in the lower mainland area of BC you may want to come out to the Meet we are holding at the Sons of Norway Campground near Mission June 21-24 - the trailers will be open for tours on the Saturday morning and we have 32 Boler's attending so far, so someone may have a suggestion or two as to how to do it. PM me if you want details.
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:18 AM   #5
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Thanks for the replies! And thanks for the warm welcome. Just found the FGRV app awesome! Now I can reply on my breaks lol.
Here's a couple more pics, I think it may be from a couple issues.. Getting hit or snow load and floor sag in that corner. It seems the back corner is a weak area as the trailer sits on the frame, two short pieces of 2x4 fiberglassed into the floor extend out to support that area. It looks like they have sagged and it's pushed the tire well outward, this along with no cabinet support and the trauma it received at some point.
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:20 AM   #6
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Nothing that a little Poliglow won't fix.

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Old 06-12-2012, 01:01 PM   #7
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I don't have any more pics of the problem area until after work. I'm thinking start at the bottom and work up. I am going to try to jack up the back corner and bolt metal right angle brackets to the frame, to support the 2x4's and level the floor.
I can see that the kitchen counter unit was pulled back with the wall so I removed the rivets and am thinking of fastening the counter to the floor better, where it should be, that way I can push the wall back in enough to make the window opening straight and rivet it back to the counter and screw it back into the fiberglass dinette seat. I just hope that is not too much pressure on the rivets.
Oh ya, those pics of the door area just give you an idea of what kind of load was put on the trailer at some point. I'm not too worried about the door fix, I've got a plan for that.
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:36 PM   #8
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Nothing that a little Poliglow won't fix.


That'll buff right out!
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:50 PM   #9
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You may want to take the body off the frame and start with a new floor, then build up from there. Lots of similar restorations here if you do a search.
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Nothing that a little Poliglow won't fix.
Tom didnt you mean Red Max
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:36 PM   #11
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Tom didnt you mean Red Max

Shhhh...new guy.
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:27 PM   #12
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Hello Paul and welcome to the forum. Without seeing the trailer in person it's hard to judge what to do but just to thrown an idea at you: there is so much bondo to begin with I would consider eyelets/wire/ turnbuckles to pull the sides in and then add roof support/ structural members to keep things there. Pushing up on the roof might achieve the same result. I am thinking plywood/2x4/hydraulic jack. Be gentle. Raz
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:43 PM   #13
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Paul here is a photo of a seriously cracked egg - caused by no supports and a snow load. As you can see prior to the whole roof giving in the sides appear to have bulged out a little as well....
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:54 PM   #14
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Carol, Can you post the 'after' photo to show Paul how it was repaired good as new? :P
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:16 PM   #15
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I have always related the sagging door or cracked door opening to the rotten floor syndrome.

The body is attached to the floor which rests on a frame but extends beyond the frame.
Floor gets wet, turns punky and looses strength, causing everything else to sag and come apart.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:42 PM   #16
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From what I can see under the trailer, everything looks good except for the left rear corner. The frame is in great shape, even at the door no rot at all. The floor is really solid, I was surprised. I will go out and take a few more pics shortly. I really wasn't trying to do a complete overhaul on this thing but it seems to be heading that way...
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:54 PM   #17
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Carol, Can you post the 'after' photo to show Paul how it was repaired good as new? :P
The owner fixed it so well you would think it was a new Trillium
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Old 06-12-2012, 10:18 PM   #18
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Ok got some more pictures with everything torn out. The damage was here before the last guy reno'd it. The last guy used caulking and mono foam to fix it. Haha I also noticed all of the frame bolts are missing in this area! The close up of the tail light hole, the water is 1/2" deep.
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:10 PM   #19
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Well I hope I've solved the bowing out of the wall permanently. Only time will tell.
I started with a 1x4 on edge and penciled a rough shape of the inside wall, then fit it in by marking high spots and cutting and sanding and cutting and sanding and finally got a decent fit. This is all with supports on the outside pushing the wall and window into where it should be. After I got the fit I liked, I then traced the window edge and cut the inside edge of the 1x4 flush to the "installed" window. I also drilled holes in the 1x4 to accommodate the back end of the rivets when installing the window. I fiberglassed the support in with the window still in to get the right fit then I fiberglassed it again wrapping it from the outside in. I am very pleased with the result, it seems really strong and the wall do not move after I removed the supports.
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:25 PM   #20
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Carol, Can you post the 'after' photo to show Paul how it was repaired good as new? :P
Sshhh,
I think the after is Paul's. Look at the crack at the top right of the door that has been repaired on his. That is the same spot the other one broke.
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