|
06-12-2012, 08:05 AM
|
#1
|
Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: 1975 Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 40
|
Snow or tree damage?
Hello to everyone out there from a Boler newb!
I recently bought a 1975 Boler that was part way through a renovation. Seems it either got hit by a tree or it got squished by snow but I didn't notice this side until I started working on it. The left side is bulging out and deforming the side window. I noticed a couple things, that there was no wrought iron upper cabinet support, and the floor under the left side dinette seating area seems to have dropped a few inches also. Any helpful suggestions on how to whip this egg back into shape would be very much appretiated.
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 08:16 AM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Name: Sue and Greg
Trailer: 1982 Burro 13 foot and a 2015 Casita Spitit Deluxe 17 ft.
Washington
Posts: 598
|
Welcome! I have no idea how to help you but know there are lots of folks here who can help. I'd love to see postings of your solutions! Good luck on your renovation.
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 08:52 AM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2007 Casita
Posts: 3,428
|
More interior pic's needed. To me, and I am not a expert at egg restoration but it sounds more like support wall issue rather than weight from the top. Has it been off it's frame? Shouldn't there be a support in the interior?
Reason I say that is, because you don't speak of any exterior issues, of course it could a combination of all factors. Hopefully one of the restore guys will see this post and help you out. Just seem's like the problem may be interior/frame issue. Snow or tree would probably do glass damage with that much of a bulge. Good luck!
Welcome, glad you found Fiberglassrv, you found a great place! Congat's on your new to you egg. Good luck with the restoration................
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 08:57 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
|
Hi Paul, my guess is it was most likely a snow load that did that if you dont have a cabinet support - we have a member of our BC group who's Boler's whole roof caved in a few years ago due to snow. Nope he wasnt up north but it was one of those rare deep snow days in Vancouver. :-)
Have no idea how you fix it but if you are in the lower mainland area of BC you may want to come out to the Meet we are holding at the Sons of Norway Campground near Mission June 21-24 - the trailers will be open for tours on the Saturday morning and we have 32 Boler's attending so far, so someone may have a suggestion or two as to how to do it. PM me if you want details.
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 11:18 AM
|
#5
|
Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: 1975 Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 40
|
Thanks for the replies! And thanks for the warm welcome. Just found the FGRV app awesome! Now I can reply on my breaks lol.
Here's a couple more pics, I think it may be from a couple issues.. Getting hit or snow load and floor sag in that corner. It seems the back corner is a weak area as the trailer sits on the frame, two short pieces of 2x4 fiberglassed into the floor extend out to support that area. It looks like they have sagged and it's pushed the tire well outward, this along with no cabinet support and the trauma it received at some point.
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 11:20 AM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
|
Nothing that a little Poliglow won't fix.
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 01:01 PM
|
#7
|
Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: 1975 Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 40
|
I don't have any more pics of the problem area until after work. I'm thinking start at the bottom and work up. I am going to try to jack up the back corner and bolt metal right angle brackets to the frame, to support the 2x4's and level the floor.
I can see that the kitchen counter unit was pulled back with the wall so I removed the rivets and am thinking of fastening the counter to the floor better, where it should be, that way I can push the wall back in enough to make the window opening straight and rivet it back to the counter and screw it back into the fiberglass dinette seat. I just hope that is not too much pressure on the rivets.
Oh ya, those pics of the door area just give you an idea of what kind of load was put on the trailer at some point. I'm not too worried about the door fix, I've got a plan for that.
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 01:36 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: ,Bigfoot 25 foot plus Surfside 14 foot
British Columbia
Posts: 1,148
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G.
Nothing that a little Poliglow won't fix.
|
That'll buff right out!
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 01:50 PM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
|
You may want to take the body off the frame and start with a new floor, then build up from there. Lots of similar restorations here if you do a search.
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 05:32 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G.
Nothing that a little Poliglow won't fix.
|
Tom didnt you mean Red Max
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 05:36 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Tom didnt you mean Red Max
|
Shhhh...new guy.
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 06:27 PM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
|
Hello Paul and welcome to the forum. Without seeing the trailer in person it's hard to judge what to do but just to thrown an idea at you: there is so much bondo to begin with I would consider eyelets/wire/ turnbuckles to pull the sides in and then add roof support/ structural members to keep things there. Pushing up on the roof might achieve the same result. I am thinking plywood/2x4/hydraulic jack. Be gentle. Raz
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 06:43 PM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
|
Paul here is a photo of a seriously cracked egg - caused by no supports and a snow load. As you can see prior to the whole roof giving in the sides appear to have bulged out a little as well....
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 06:54 PM
|
#14
|
Moderator
Trailer: U-Haul 1985
Posts: 3,436
|
Carol, Can you post the 'after' photo to show Paul how it was repaired good as new? :P
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 08:16 PM
|
#15
|
Senior Member
Name: Ken
Trailer: 19' Scamp
Nebraska
Posts: 109
|
I have always related the sagging door or cracked door opening to the rotten floor syndrome.
The body is attached to the floor which rests on a frame but extends beyond the frame.
Floor gets wet, turns punky and looses strength, causing everything else to sag and come apart.
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 08:42 PM
|
#16
|
Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: 1975 Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 40
|
From what I can see under the trailer, everything looks good except for the left rear corner. The frame is in great shape, even at the door no rot at all. The floor is really solid, I was surprised. I will go out and take a few more pics shortly. I really wasn't trying to do a complete overhaul on this thing but it seems to be heading that way...
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 09:54 PM
|
#17
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pam Garlow
Carol, Can you post the 'after' photo to show Paul how it was repaired good as new? :P
|
The owner fixed it so well you would think it was a new Trillium
|
|
|
06-12-2012, 10:18 PM
|
#18
|
Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: 1975 Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 40
|
Ok got some more pictures with everything torn out. The damage was here before the last guy reno'd it. The last guy used caulking and mono foam to fix it. Haha I also noticed all of the frame bolts are missing in this area! The close up of the tail light hole, the water is 1/2" deep.
|
|
|
07-03-2012, 06:10 PM
|
#19
|
Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: 1975 Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 40
|
Well I hope I've solved the bowing out of the wall permanently. Only time will tell.
I started with a 1x4 on edge and penciled a rough shape of the inside wall, then fit it in by marking high spots and cutting and sanding and cutting and sanding and finally got a decent fit. This is all with supports on the outside pushing the wall and window into where it should be. After I got the fit I liked, I then traced the window edge and cut the inside edge of the 1x4 flush to the "installed" window. I also drilled holes in the 1x4 to accommodate the back end of the rivets when installing the window. I fiberglassed the support in with the window still in to get the right fit then I fiberglassed it again wrapping it from the outside in. I am very pleased with the result, it seems really strong and the wall do not move after I removed the supports.
|
|
|
07-03-2012, 09:25 PM
|
#20
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pam Garlow
Carol, Can you post the 'after' photo to show Paul how it was repaired good as new? :P
|
Sshhh,
I think the after is Paul's. Look at the crack at the top right of the door that has been repaired on his. That is the same spot the other one broke.
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
» Upcoming Events |
No events scheduled in the next 465 days.
|
|