So...how do you convince someone to sell their trailer? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-01-2008, 03:56 PM   #15
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Name: Darwin
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The ConwayBob article above should be saved on this site in the tutorial section.
It provides most valuable information that I think is correct and true.

to ConwayBob and from DR
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Old 07-03-2008, 11:26 AM   #16
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We are so excited...got the trailer, at the price we offered, got it for a song. I think the trick to walking up to someone and asking, is to just do it. The wife said the husband was the decision maker, but fortunately we were painfully polite to both, and come to find out, the trailer was in her name. It needs alot of work, but cleans up nicely, and will need alittle less work than we thought. I think we will be able to stay away from floor replacement. However, Conway Bob, How do I support the floor from underneath by the door effectively without welding a new support?

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Old 07-03-2008, 08:03 PM   #17
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...Conway Bob, How do I support the floor from underneath by the door effectively without welding a new support?
I'm sorry, I'm not familar with a Burro's Frame and fortunately have not had to mess with my frame. Flooring yes, framing no.

However...

I would expect there are crossmembers in the frame that you can run a stringer in between. And I'd say in general, to do it right, you use the same materal that's in the frame. meaning welding some angle iron between two crossmembers.

Your only alternative is wood, & using wood bracing in that area is providing a weak spot that would or could fail. It's obvious that the first two steps inside that door is the most Hi-traffic spot in the trailer and needs strong support. Unfortunately your support is on the underside of the trailer...where all that yucky, rain, sleet, and mud is at. Unless you dip that wood brace in tar, eventually it'll rot, and you'll only have to fix it again. Adding iron is the lightest, strongest, and longest-lasting choice.

The length of your brace also plays a part. Where are your nearest crossmembers? Or would you be running your brace across the trailer, from doorsill to centerline, or all the way over to the streetside sill. Your shortest run is always the strongest.

Compare strengths...2" angle iron beats a 2"x4" all day long.

I'm sorry Pam, I'd invite a welder to lay in some iron before I'd use lumber. And weld, not attach with bolts & nuts. You drill holes in your frame, and you'll eventually get a crack or corrosion, plus nuts & bolts come loose faster than any good weld I've ever seen.

Are you sorry you asked? <_<
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Old 07-04-2008, 07:26 AM   #18
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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Maybe some of these will help?
13' Burrow frame repair.
'81 burro 13' rebuild has begun

This one has pictures right at the door area showing frame fixes:
TOTAL MAKEOVER - LilBurro

There's probably more, search may help you.
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Old 07-04-2008, 11:43 AM   #19
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Trailer: 1983 Scamp 13 ft Standard
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Maybe some of these will help?
13' Burrow frame repair.
'81 burro 13' rebuild has begun

This one has pictures right at the door area showing frame fixes:
TOTAL MAKEOVER - LilBurro

There's probably more, search may help you.
Donna to the rescue! Thanks!
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