Solar(s) Panel(s), wich choose? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-20-2016, 07:17 PM   #29
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Well Jon and Byron have both highlighted the problem with the very basic instructions for the solar setups that have been provided. The instructions are good, but rather generic and don't necessarily take into account some important details.

May I suggest that you post some VERY extensive details on the planned installation? it is easier sometimes to find flaws with a plan than to explore every possible requirement or suggested method when doing something like this.

I would include details such as an overall listing of components with their layout and placement, wire gauge, length, fuse rating, etc.

I have found that there is a lot of knowledge on this forum.. if we can get it focused to your situation.

Basically, you want fuses to fail (blow) before so much current goes through any wires or other components that it damages then. Sounds simple and its pretty much is, given the proper planning.
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:00 PM   #30
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A steadfast rule. Never fuse anything at a higher current rating than the wire is designed to handle. There's lots of charts that indicate the size of wire vs current. Fuse accordingly to be safe.
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:31 PM   #31
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The current carrying capacity of a wire is determined by the AWG size of the wire ,whether copper or aluminum , the insulation rating ,applied voltage , number of conductors in a raceway - cable or - bundled or in free air ,ambient temperature , the load being served ,voltage drop and code limitations .etc etc etc. I have #6 AWG 90 deg C THWN copper wire going from my battery to my 100 watt solar panel controller .The #6 wire is fused at 7.5 AMPS not at the wires listed ampacity.
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:28 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
The current carrying capacity of a wire is determined by the AWG size of the wire ,whether copper or aluminum , the insulation rating ,applied voltage , number of conductors in a raceway - cable or - bundled or in free air ,ambient temperature , the load being served ,voltage drop and code limitations .etc etc etc. I have #6 AWG 90 deg C THWN copper wire going from my battery to my 100 watt solar panel controller .The #6 wire is fused at 7.5 AMPS not at the wires listed ampacity.
There's just so many things wrong with this post that it take three pages of type to correct.
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:46 AM   #33
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I found this document in one of the links that someone from the group identified as reference.

After finding the amperage required at the end of fillage, one may have the right idea of the fuse size to use ...

Is good?
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:53 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
There's just so many things wrong with this post that it take three pages of type to correct.
Well then we understand if it takes a while to prepare the response.

I'll throw this diagram out there for comment, and for suggestions as to it's appropriateness for the OP. There is no fuse on the battery side of the solar controller, but it seems to me that the 20 amp for the main trailer wiring and the 30 amp for the solar controller side (which is all 8 AWG from battery to controller) will cover any eventuality. Or did I miss something.

(BTW, the 30 amp is a Blue Sea Systems post mounted fuse, right on the battery post with the required post mount. I really like these since there is no length of wire coming off the battery that is unfused. The original Scamp connection had a foot or so of wire before the first fuse.
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:59 AM   #35
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Makes life easier
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:23 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
There's just so many things wrong with this post that it take three pages of type to correct.
Please Byron ; ENLIGHTEN ME !! !!
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:55 PM   #37
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Allowable ampacity of a #8 AWG wire copper or aluminum
#8 Copper 60 C insulation no more than 3 wires in a raceway = 40A
#8 Copper 90 c insulation no more than 3 wires in a raceway = 55A
#8 Alum 60 C insulation no more than 3 wires in a raceway = 35A
#8 Alum 90 C insulation no more than 3 wires in a raceway = 45A
#8 Copper 60 C insulation in free air = 60A
#8 Copper 90 C insulation in free air = 80A
4 to 6 conductors in a raceway or cable derate listed ampacity to 80%
7 to 9 conductors in a raceway or cable derate listed ampacity to 70%
See NEC Art 310.15((2)(a) and 310.15((2)(b) for correction factors for ambient temperature
The ampacity of a given conductor when sized to limit voltage drop is the maximum ampacity where the voltage drop does not exceed the maximum voltage drop allowed . IE; We often install runs of #6 or #4 Copper wire for parking lot lighting to limit voltage drop and the wires are fused at 20 amps.
The ampacity of a conductor is also limited to the temperature rating of the terminations IE ; Circuit breakers are rated for 75 deg C and are another limiting factor on ampacity.

Reference Art 310 of the NEC
I stand by my post !!
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:01 PM   #38
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Always remember the fuse is chosen to protect the wire (and the stuff around it) and not the electrical device (so much).
If the device has a fault then the fuse will not make it all better.
The fuse rating should always be lower than the ampacity of the wire to prevent overheating.
The fuses should also be near the source of power so that a short circuit between that source and the fuse is unlikely. A short before the fuse is like it is not in the circuit at all.
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:09 PM   #39
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I feel like I'm getting an education here, although it may be just enough knowledge to get me in trouble.
Thanks for the diagram, gordon2.
I just got off the phone with Renogy tech support, and was told that my 3 100w parallel panels can be protected with a single 25-30 amp fuse. At the risk of being annoying, I asked twice, to be sure.
So.....here's what I'm going to do: 25amp fuse on the solar feed, 30 amp on the battery line, and 30amp on the load line to the primary fuse block, where each branch circuit is fused according to draw. I understand wire resistance, and my 10awg runs are fairly short.
I'll see if I can share real world data from the field.
I hope my replies haven't added confusion to the discussion. I just try to share what I Think I know, and my education continues.

Gordon
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:02 PM   #40
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I must admit that after reading all the technical mambo-jumbo in this seemingly endless post any plans I ever had on adding a solar battery charging system to my trailer have been canceled FOREVER !!!
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:56 PM   #41
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Enough! People need to be a little nicer. Most of you have been here long enough to know disagreement is ok but being disagreeable is not.


Spring is here, camping season is fast approaching, people looking into how to install a solar system are not helped by good people arguing and being unpleasant.
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Old 03-21-2016, 04:24 PM   #42
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When I asked for a little help, a little information for the installation of a solar panel, I have identified my shows and my facility's electricity needs.

I read between the lines to find there what is necessary for my equipment.

Personally, I think I have recovered the info I need to install the correct sizes son and fuses.

It allowed me to refresh it my DC current.

When I'll have finished and use the solar panel, I'll give you my final account ...

Thank You all,
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