Stabilizer Jack question - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-21-2009, 05:17 PM   #15
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Yes, that was my mistake, sorry.

The leveler in question comes in two sizes that I found (24" leg or 20" leg). The larger ones weigh 44 pounds; the smaller ones are 32 pounds.

I'm not saying there is not a third size, but the ones the previous poster pointed out from JC Whitney for the Scamp were apparently the 20" ones.

I apologize for the error; thanks for pointing it out.

Raya
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Old 08-21-2009, 06:01 PM   #16
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Stabilizer Jacks.

I have yet to try and figure how to lower them. I have never even felt the need to try and do so.

[b]Why is it so important to some?
If it's rockin' don't come knockin'?
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Old 08-21-2009, 06:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Yes, that was my mistake, sorry.

The leveler in question comes in two sizes that I found (24" leg or 20" leg). The larger ones weigh 44 pounds; the smaller ones are 32 pounds.

I'm not saying there is not a third size, but the ones the previous poster pointed out from JC Whitney for the Scamp were apparently the 20" ones.

I apologize for the error; thanks for pointing it out.

Raya
Thanks, When I put mine on after cutting about 8" out of the assembly and removing the standard jacks, I remember the net added weight was minimal, but I didn't write it down and I can't recall the exact amount.
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:00 PM   #18
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I've notice a marked difference between using four-corner stabilizers... and none. It's not as noticeable when I'm the one walking around, but if I'm sitting and someone else is walking... that's a different story. I doubt a 16 footer (or larger) would ever tip backwards... unless several large people where at the back, but we did have a story (pre-hack) of a 13 footer that did! In that case, it would have been better to stay hooked to the tug.
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:26 PM   #19
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Thanks for all the replies. I'm going with the Bal telescopic stabilizers and cut them down. Went to the camping world and Harbor freight near me to get some items I need to work on the frame. I picked up a BAL tire leveler to help secure the trailer to the floor, wow, is this cool. I also got it early to design a space to store it inside as I get to that part. I'm sure I'll have tons of questions on other stuff as it comes up.
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Old 08-23-2009, 11:30 AM   #20
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Have you considered jack stands?

On our Boler, we use automobile jack stands, which I got for $14 a pair at Princess Auto. They set up in seconds and have a ratchet/lever to pull up and retract instantly. I just lower the front end of the trailer below level with the jack to raise the rear end, put the jack stands under the rear bumper (they pull up and are held by a ratchet to just under the right height, and then raise the front end of the trailer to level to put weight on the rear stands. I use a small piece of plywood under each jack stand so it won't sink into the ground. Very easy, works great, easy to move and store. The level can be off by as much as 1/4 inch, which is OK for me.

They look just like the ones in this link, but were much cheaper. http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/re...ord=jack+stands

Rick G
This is what I do with my 13ft Burro also. I thought you were supposed to put the jacks closer to the wheels though and not out by the back bumper? I set mine about 12 inches behind the wheel. I use a bottle jack to raise the back and place the jackstands. Then level with the front tonge jack. Last time I then placed the bottle jack under the frame in front of the entry door and just cranked it up till it was snug to the frame .

It is a bit of a hassle and requires crawling around for a few minutes. I would prefer to have some permanently mounted sizzor type jacks installed and have considered finding a couple at a junk yard.

Question:
Should I move them all the way back to the bummper area?
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:27 PM   #21
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Question:
Should I move them all the way back to the bumper area?
There is a subtle difference between Stabilization and Leveling.

One Levels at the wheels, because the wheel and axle mounting points are where the frame is designed to carry the balanced full weight of the trailer's load.

One stabilizes at the 4 corners of the body at extreme ends of the frame. (Example: At each corner toward the bumper in the rear, and each corner just before the tongue triangle toward the front.) When you are stabilizing you are [b]equalizing the downward force of the trailer with the upward force of the supporting jacks. If the jacks are lifting the trailer, then they are not stabilizing, they are leveling. If you are leveling at a stabilization point, you[b] risk bending or torquing a frame that may have been designed to be light enough to carry the full load only at it's balance point, but not at it's extreme, or cantilever. In a trailer that was primarily designed for [b]lightness, this becomes a significant factor.

In the example of a 13' Fiberglass Travel Trailer, primary stabilization is required at the rear bumper due to 2 persons in the rear bed placing a significant amount of weight cantilevered behind the fulcrum of the wheels and axle.

If I've put everybody to sleep, then class is dismissed.
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:09 AM   #22
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Ok... Let me see if I got this right...If I equalize the stabilization by using the 4 corners.... no, no thats not right ... I have to level the corners by equalizing the weight distribution and...no...thats not it! What if the stabilization was distributed equally by the downward force of the 2 people sleeping on the bumper and the tonge NO!

Where's my old tent.........
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Old 08-25-2009, 07:14 PM   #23
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sorry if this is a dumb question - we just bought our 1993 13' Scamp last week so everything about these is new to me, but mine has two jacks attached to the rear bumper that I thought were stock from the factory. we bought it from the original owner and he said everything was as he had bought it.
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Old 08-25-2009, 07:35 PM   #24
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mine has two jacks attached to the rear bumper that I thought were stock from the factory.
Link to the Scamp Owner's Manual
The factory installed "Rear Bumper Jacks" are mentioned at the top of page 4.
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:32 PM   #25
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Ok... Let me see if I got this right...If I equalize the stabilization by using the 4 corners.... no, no thats not right ... I have to level the corners by equalizing the weight distribution and...no...thats not it! What if the stabilization was distributed equally by the downward force of the 2 people sleeping on the bumper and the tonge NO!

Where's my old tent.........
Hi,
I just returned from our 9 day camping trip with the trailer to the west coast of Vancouver Island and back; a lovely time with great weather. Yes, I put the jackstands in the rear corners under the bumper. The purpose is to stabilize by taking some weight off of the wheels, so that the trailer does not bounce around when moving inside. I also have a wood crib that I made to go under the front hitch, for the same reason (I used to install mobile homes many years ago). The crib handles most longitudinal leveling jobs with small boards I can add for extra height if required, and makes the trailer extremely stable. I also leave my front hitch jack with some weight on the ground for added security. I have a small rubbermaid box that holds all the jackstands and setup stuff (including a hammer for "adjusting" our hitch coupler lock) except the crib, and I just put the box and crib in the trailer when travelling (over the axle to balance the weight).

If the camping spot is fairly level, this 3 point support has an added bonus in that the jackstands level the trailer a small bit side by side, but the main purpose is to take a bit of the weight off the axle. I like to have my head slightly up when sleeping anyway, so I usually set it that way. My fridge works when the trailer is not perfectly level (nothing in a Boler is perfectly aligned), so I guess it is close enough. I have so far been easily able to get the trailer relatively level side to side in every camping spot we have had, although sometimes I have to move the trailer to find the best location in the campsite. If I had to raise the wheels actually off the ground to achieve side to side levelling, then I would put the jacks close to the wheels to ease the pressure on the frame. But my type of levelling at a campsite keeps a good deal of weight on the wheels, the jackstands are for comfort and minor levelling only.

This has worked great so far. We can set up and dissassemble in literally a minute or two on uneven ground. Of course, I always use wheel chocks to make sure the trailer does not run away on a slope, and you could not do this if the wheels were actually off the ground.

Regards,
Rick G in Edmonton
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:09 PM   #26
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Wilder,

Yes, the two stabilizers are stock and fold under the bumper. They are just that stabilizers, not jacks. They are meant to stabilize the trailer not jack up the trailer.

Here's the easiest way to use them. Level your trailer then take the tongue down off level about 10 to 12 cranks, set the rear stabilizers down and jack the tongue back up the 10 to 12 cranks. That should set the stabilizers tight. Give them a kick to make sure they are solid. Oh, but don't kick hard enough to break a toe.

Quickest, easiest, fastest way.
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:49 AM   #27
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Give them a kick to make sure they are solid. Oh, but don't kick hard enough to break a toe.
If only I had known ...................
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Old 09-05-2009, 01:26 AM   #28
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I like cheap too. Unfortunately Danny said there's only about 13" of clearance. I think a scissors jack only collapses to about 6", that only leaves about 7" to the ground. That would work in flat areas, but may be problematic going in and out of driveways.... if the scissors jacks are welded to the frame. Certainly wouldn't want to drag the jack, tear it off and perhaps damage the frame or fiberglass in the process. Of course, if you just wanted to have the jacks loose and carry them in the tug or trailer and use as needed, the ground clearance is a moot point.
Here is a 1 1/2 ton 4 3/4" to 15 3/4":

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1MZK5

Even better here is a 1 ton, 3 1/2" to 15/ 1/13"

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...05253_200305253
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