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Old 11-24-2009, 11:06 PM   #21
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Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
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That is some impressive reinforcment, but I was more curious about the fiberglass repair. I have a welder if the frame issues come up. I'm not great with it, but always looking for a reason to practice.

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Old 11-25-2009, 12:10 AM   #22
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Quote:
That is some impressive reinforcment, but I was more curious about the fiberglass repair. I have a welder if the frame issues come up. I'm not great with it, but always looking for a reason to practice.

archie
aaahhhh Sorry. As for the fiberglass repair, actually it was quite simple. Just took one of my die grinders with a 36 grit pad on it and knocked the gelcoat off on the outside. Found that the stress crack ran thru a place where a factory bond where two pieces of mat came together. Sort of a natural weak spot. (burnt a small hole thru there ) Also, there was a dip in the curvature of the body there. So, out came the resin and mat--- if I remember correctly, we applied 4 layers to the inside and 3 on the outside. (just to put your mind at ease, I peeled back the elephant hide) Feathered it out, slapped some Bondo on, and sprayed some Pure White (DupliColor from Scmucks)touch up paint I have in rattle cans for the El Camino. Almost exactly matches--can't see it when the trailer is waxed unless you're looking for it. Sorry I don't have any more pictures of it. Larry
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Old 11-25-2009, 07:14 PM   #23
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I'm most curious about the door frame you fabricated. What materials? Any special techniques? It sounds like it might be the right proceedure for my situation. Is there any drawbacks of doing this? Does it strengthen the door frame at the sacrifice of another area? I figure the trailer in 31 years old and can use any help I can give it.

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Old 11-25-2009, 07:57 PM   #24
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If you're interested in an internal door frame, then addition to Larry's door frame, you might want to check out Con's Boler door fix (also involved a frame). He made up a very detailed document about it, with photographs.
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Old 11-25-2009, 09:15 PM   #25
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"So this is where I'm a bit nervous. My thought was to use a jack and 2x4 with a piece of ply on the floor to spread the downward force out over a larger area. This sound doable? Never really done this before, so any advice is appreciated."

As I was reading this thread, I was trying to "engineer" your problem in my mind. The jacking of (and holding of) the existing fiberglass in place during the work and curing of the new patch seemed like it could develop into a big problem. I was looking through a Lee Valley catalog the other night searching for Christmas gifts and I remembered seeing this:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...t=1,43838,47843

I almost ordered it, don't need it right now, but more than once I've needed to do something that this would have been perfect for. I'm sure you can do this. Just think thru the project and get it worked out in your mind before you start to mix the goop cause that's where it will get messy...

Good Luck,

Steve
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:26 AM   #26
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If you're interested in an internal door frame, then addition to Larry's door frame, you might want to check out Con's Boler door fix (also involved a frame). He made up a very detailed document about it, with photographs.

Thanx- that is another goodthought. The door also needs some repair, right after I fix the crack actually. Speaking of which, I read that the newer hinges aren't compatible with the older models and I need the bearing that gets sandwiched in the hinge. Any resources?
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:49 AM   #27
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Thanx- that is another goodthought. The door also needs some repair, right after I fix the crack actually. Speaking of which, I read that the newer hinges aren't compatible with the older models and I need the bearing that gets sandwiched in the hinge. Any resources?
Hi Archie. You can get the Door Hinge Repair Kit (Brass Ball, Spring, Nut & Bolt) right from Scamp. It's separate from the hinge. Door Hinge Repair Kit. It's been suggested to replace the kit bolt, which is regular ole steel, with one that's stainless steel. Less chance of future rust.
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Old 11-28-2009, 06:52 PM   #28
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Archie,

You may want to see what I had to do with my Scamp door to set things straight:


http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/in...howtopic=37856


Dig through the thread to have access to all the PDF files.
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Old 11-29-2009, 10:52 AM   #29
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many years ago i lived in phoenix ariz and hand made remote control boat hulls in the 6 to eight foot long size.
i got all my supplies at a very small supplier and he showed me a lot of fiberglass tricks.
at the time i guess i thought all fiberglass supliers were all this smart .[whoops] and so lost his business name.
now im in missouri and none of my family can find him.[please post here if you can]
what we all need to find is a WAX FREE POLYESTER ROSIEN.when using wax free life gets sooo easy there is no sanding between coats and this stuff stays sticky forever, allowing years to put down the next layer dry,peel off and stick until you have it just right and then using a roller to saturate the cloth with wax rosein or wax free.
wax free rosein can be final cured out with a light coating of liquid car wax and is as stong as standard.
now here in missouri i have been to 5 diffrent fiberglass suppliers and they all look at me as if i were crazy when i ask for wax free.
i will admit this is not an absolute need when doing glasswork but i will tell you once you have used this you will never go back simply because of the ability to have as much time as you want to get everything perfect before the next step.
if you have ever had to sand out one wrinkle or had one delamination failure between layers you know what i mean.

another subject is ppl worrying about seeing light through the camper shell,i know when glass is put over wood properly it is very hard to tell it is there all you see is the wood.
if you see cloth that is a weak spot either it did not adhere to the wood or sucessive layers did not adhear to each other this is most often caused by not fully saturating the cloth or not carefully sanding off the wax between layers.

now with this said do not let me make you think glass is hard or complicated it is realy easy.
my first boat made this way once came out of the water and hit a tree at 30? plus? mph.
NOTHING BROKE!!!!!
3 hp 2 cycle motors make a lot of vibration the hull is now 15? years old and the guy i gave it to still uses it several times each year.
realise i had no help and didnt have a clue about boats or fiberglass.
so even bad glass can be strong just practice first any time you are learning and when your practice piece looks good take a hammer to it tear it up[try not to cry] you will learn so much from breaking it put it in a vise and try to use leverage to see if you can break it,if you cant get a strong young man you all know the guy hes the one who tears up everthing he touches.

life is a journey knowledge is the goal.

have fun jim
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