Starting work on Trillium 1300 - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-12-2019, 09:01 AM   #15
Junior Member
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: 1980 Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 10
Thanks for all that Bill. Not sure if it is apparent or not, but I'm kind of freaking out about it - in a small freak-out way. My worst fear in all this was buying a lemon and I was glad to see that he had already reinforced the frame, replaced the axle and addressed all sorts of other "body" issues. I've been pouring over his previous posts as well, trying to get a sense of what he has done and whether or not he did a decent job of it, but its hard because his explanations are sometimes a bit mixed up and difficult to understand.
I think everything will be fine. I will try to take a closer look on Monday, take off the microwave, see where I am at and report back.
One last question though, if there were signs of damage, what am I looking for? I plan on checking for any stress fractures in the upper kitchen unit itself, I will peel back a bit of that ensolite and see if anything looks wrong, and then check the roof directly above it to see if there is any cracks or signs of stress. Do you think that front corner spider cracking could be related at all? or is that a bit of a stretch? Thanks again for all the replies everyone - these situations, I feel the more I know, the better off i am to do something about it.
Brian
__________________

b_houf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2019, 09:17 AM   #16
Junior Member
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: 1980 Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 10
Thanks Ed as well. I'll try to get better pics on Monday for you. Your help and advice is greatly appreciated. I don't think the bottom cabinet has been removed, but I will have a better look and report back. All comments are greatly appreciated and any input from more knowledgeable folks is exactly what I am asking for.
__________________

b_houf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2019, 09:34 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
North Carolina
Posts: 1,613
Registry
yes, whatever it was originally it may not be now. Not sure the age of yours, mine at 41 years old has had 41 years to be modified and changed. So whatever it was originally does not mean it is that way still. Count on a few surprises along the way.

Some spider cracks would be normal. I would not freak out. Trailer overall looks really nice to me. That ensolite damage may just be from heat off the microwave. Kind of looks localized to me.
thrifty bill is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2019, 07:37 PM   #18
Junior Member
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: 1980 Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 10
I’m just not going to Worry about it

Ok, so my kitchenette is wonky. I think I am at peace with that. There is a dip in the roof from front to back and a bit around the vent, but I saw a few threads where others had the same issue and one very ambiotious person installed some great supports hat extended to the frame. Others have also made fibreglass “framing to add support to the roof. I am going to do nothing right now.
You can see the shadow lines from the shelf where its the “level” line
Click image for larger version

Name:	8AC6073A-BDE0-49AF-832A-4356175C73CF.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	212.1 KB
ID:	127340
Today I took off the microwave and repaired my back window. The PO had devised an A/C setup worthy of Macguyver, but, I don’t want A/C and it leaked, so I had to dismantle it and clean the windows of all the caulking and glue. THankfully, he had the foresight to keep the emergency window and hardware, so through looking at previous posters pictures, I was able to reassemble the window and hardware as well. I’m not looking for “showroom” clean, just “clean” with the windows, so i just cleaned all the gunk off, sprayed them with a degreaser and scrubbed a bit with a green scrubby.
Click image for larger version

Name:	A247A0B3-5487-47EB-88B2-67FC3466189E.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	198.7 KB
ID:	127341
I also purchased some PVC Trim and cut that up for the window filler strips. That stuff gets all over the place when you cut it, so make sure you wear some sort of dust mask. It does machine quite easily though.
Click image for larger version

Name:	3666D0DB-CA38-4A6B-99C9-013FC9774EF1.jpg
Views:	6
Size:	185.8 KB
ID:	127342
The PO said that he used 1-Shot fibreglass urethane paint on the exterior, but I can’t really find anywhere around here yet that sells it. I might just touch up with another type of white paint.
Click image for larger version

Name:	085FBFA4-3EEB-4858-9DC9-6E0025D3F862.jpg
Views:	6
Size:	153.2 KB
ID:	127343
Here’s a question though - Do I need to prime around the window before I paint? I ended up taking quite a bit of the white paint off when cleaning the shell because it was painted without removing any of the old silicone or caulking. I removed it all as much as I could to get it relatively smooth and take off the old sealant, so now I have revealed the old gel coat and what looks like a different previous paint colour. As usual,any and all ideas are welcome.
As well, the picture attachment program hates me. I rotated the pictures so they would appear “correct”, but then it made them look wrong the other way, so I put them back and now they look like this again. No middle ground apparently. Don’t hurt your neck looking sideways.
b_houf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2019, 07:56 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
David Tilston's Avatar
 
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 5,848
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by b_houf View Post
Thanks for all that Bill. Not sure if it is apparent or not, but I'm kind of freaking out about it - in a small freak-out way. My worst fear in all this was buying a lemon and I was glad to see that he had already reinforced the frame, replaced the axle and addressed all sorts of other "body" issues.
Brian, Don't worry. This is a common problem with Trilliums. A design flaw in my opinion. I am not sure if the microwave is responsible, or just snow load. It is actually worse on the 4500 models. They have a longer roof, and less height to the trolley roof. Every one I have seen pools water above the kitchen. Jim Bennett purchased a 1300 that had it bad:
Camping without a camp fire
It's funny, I remember there being a visible angle to the vertical part of the trolley roof, but it doesn't show in the pictures.

The point is that what you need is a couple of supports on either side of the kitchen, and time. Fibreglass is quite plastic, (no pun intended). It will deform, but it can be pushed back into shape. Take it easy. Jack up the roof a bit, then wait a couple of days and jack some more. Don't go too fast, or it will break. Warm days seem to help. once the roof is high enough, put in more permanent supports. This process may also help with the kitchen counter sloping back. The assumption that I am making is that the pontoon under the kitchen has also deformed, (sagged). and the back of the kitchen is now lower then it should be. Trillium really should have put supports there to begin with.

There is another spot forward of the roof vent. Mostly on 4500's, but also on 1300's. The roof will go concave. If you push on it it will pop back up, but then come back down when you let go. My theory is that the roof vent causes a gap in the structure, allowing this to happen. I found that if I supported this section from the inside over a long period of time, then it would stay up, even when not supported.

Also for all the other Trillium, (fibreglass trailer?) owners out there. It is a good idea to support the roof, from the inside, anytime you are not using it. This will protect against snow loads, or any other load on the roof. In the case of a Trillium, I would cut a 1/4" sheet of plywood to fit the arched trolley section and wedge 2x2 lumber between that plywood, and another couple of plywood sheets on the floor. One sheet at the kitchen level and another at the dinette level. If you want to get fancy, Princess Auto sells support rods:
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...od/A-p8660292e
But I would never pay that much. The ones I got were on the order of $15, and included a hand jack mechanism.

I hope that helps.
David Tilston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2019, 08:06 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
John in Michigan's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Michigan
Posts: 1,088
Registry
Brian, prep the gel coat by sanding it with 120 grit sandpaper, then clean it with isopropyl alcohol or acetone. Urethane, polyurethane or acrylic based paint will stick directly to the gel coat, however, to be sure check with your paint supplier and read the paint label.
__________________
Trillium 4500 Journal
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...nal-81345.html
John in Michigan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2019, 08:34 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
North Carolina
Posts: 1,613
Registry
Another choice is to just get the windows sealed well with new screws, replaced rotten wood and butyl tape.

If/when later when you decide to paint just pull the windows again. Pulling them a second time should be a lot easier and much faster and wood should be fine.
thrifty bill is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2019, 09:17 PM   #22
Junior Member
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: 1980 Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Brian, Don't worry. This is a common problem with Trilliums. A design flaw in my opinion. I am not sure if the microwave is responsible, or just snow load. It is actually worse on the 4500 models. They have a longer roof, and less height to the trolley roof. Every one I have seen pools water above the kitchen. Jim Bennett purchased a 1300 that had it bad:
Camping without a camp fire
It's funny, I remember there being a visible angle to the vertical part of the trolley roof, but it doesn't show in the pictures.

The point is that what you need is a couple of supports on either side of the kitchen, and time. Fibreglass is quite plastic, (no pun intended). It will deform, but it can be pushed back into shape. Take it easy. Jack up the roof a bit, then wait a couple of days and jack some more. Don't go too fast, or it will break. Warm days seem to help. once the roof is high enough, put in more permanent supports. This process may also help with the kitchen counter sloping back. The assumption that I am making is that the pontoon under the kitchen has also deformed, (sagged). and the back of the kitchen is now lower then it should be. Trillium really should have put supports there to begin with.

There is another spot forward of the roof vent. Mostly on 4500's, but also on 1300's. The roof will go concave. If you push on it it will pop back up, but then come back down when you let go. My theory is that the roof vent causes a gap in the structure, allowing this to happen. I found that if I supported this section from the inside over a long period of time, then it would stay up, even when not supported.

Also for all the other Trillium, (fibreglass trailer?) owners out there. It is a good idea to support the roof, from the inside, anytime you are not using it. This will protect against snow loads, or any other load on the roof. In the case of a Trillium, I would cut a 1/4" sheet of plywood to fit the arched trolley section and wedge 2x2 lumber between that plywood, and another couple of plywood sheets on the floor. One sheet at the kitchen level and another at the dinette level. If you want to get fancy, Princess Auto sells support rods:
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...od/A-p8660292e
But I would never pay that much. The ones I got were on the order of $15, and included a hand jack mechanism.

I hope that helps.
All very good advice, thanks David. I will try that when the weather gets a little more cooperative. I am always reminded in such instances about the unreasonable relief that I feel knowing that others also have the same problems as me. I'm hoping to eventually create a sheltered winter home, but for now we have some very generous friends who are letting me work on it in their heated barn/workshop

I've also put in an order for some new window seals and screw covers, so I'll hopefully have the windows reinstalled within the next week or so. Still have to pull three more - really not looking forward to the front one. In the mean time I'll see about paint options. Thanks again everyone!
__________________

b_houf is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
trailorboat, trillium


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
*NEW OWNER*: 1971 1300 Boler needs work on BODY/FIBREGLASS, DOOR & WINDOWS. Regina.Oake Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 18 10-05-2016 07:46 AM
Trillium Trailer Front Window Screws starting to rust off Dave Storey Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 11 05-17-2016 11:40 AM
CANADA - Trillium 1300 - $1300 David Tilston Referrals: Molded Fiberglass Trailers 2 01-26-2016 01:34 PM
Starting a reno of a 1975 Trilliim 1300 mefilipo Modifications, Alterations and Updates 4 07-26-2012 02:17 PM
Starting the purchase process Legacy Posts Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 6 10-07-2002 08:19 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.