Storing 13' Scamp...I'm so confused!! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-24-2014, 01:18 PM   #15
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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I too put jack stands on the tubing near my Scamp axle. As said previously, DO NOT jack it up nor store it on jack stands on the axle! Putting the trailer on jack stands just "relieves" the torsion on the rubber in the axle. Makes sense to me! But another thing, it keeps the tires off the ground! When it's parked for a period of time, I will go out and spin the wheels....not a suggestion, just what I do.

I also reduce air pressure to 20 lbs on my 13" tires. (Including the spare)

I DO drop at least one "stabilizer" to keep it from ever thinking about "popping a wheelie".

Darral
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Old 10-01-2014, 11:11 AM   #16
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Name: Dennis
Trailer: Scamp
Oregon
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Thanks all for suggestions.

Decided to block-up frame behind axles to relieve pressure off of suspension, and reduce tire pressure.
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:33 PM   #17
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Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
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So many comments! Here is mine. I ALWAYS use the rear support stands, camping as well as long term storage. They should have come with 2 long steel rods that you may insert so that they will not slip and fall but I have never had this happen. It takes all of 4 minutes to lower the tounge all the way down, flip out the two rear supports and then crank the tounge back up to level. It usually will not pull the tires off the ground but does take almost all of the stress off the torsion axel. I have never had an issue being in the trailer with the stands down in this way, its fast and easy and works. If the rear supprts are correctly locked it wont slip, simply crank down the front the tounge and fold up the stands when done, sometimes I need to step on them to release. The more you keep the axel relaxed the longer it will last. If you want to use standard scew type stands then make sure they are only mounting on the frame and not the axel or part of it. That is the best method fir sure, but I do not carry them with me and the three points that my method gives me works well enough.
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Old 10-07-2014, 02:26 PM   #18
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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Here's just some food for thought. The trailer frame is designed/engineered to be suspended at the axle. The rear stabilizers are merely for that- to "stabilize" the trailer when it's parked...not suspend it. You're putting alot of strain on the entire framework because the front jack and rear stabilizers are so far apart. I would personally be concerned about fatigue with the fiberglass shell in addition to the frame.

For camping for a weekend, maybe; but I just would not let it set on the stabilizers and front jack for months at a time as I do mine on the jack stands. It may not hurt a thing, but I just feel better about jacking it up and storing it suspended as close as I can to the axle.

[QUOTE=shawn bertagnole;486202]So many comments! Here is mine. I ALWAYS use the rear support stands, camping as well as long term storage.
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:46 PM   #19
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Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
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Good point, I would certainly be concerned on a longer frame but feel the box steel frame on the 13' is plenty stout. I have not felt any flexing but will look into it. I support mine by the rear because its fast and very easy. If there are issues with flexing I would buy a set of screw jacks and mount inboard. I just dont want to carry them. I have done this for many years and know others who have as well, but only on a 13'. On the inverse of this I would expect far greater stress to be placed on the center of the frame by the axel, considering how it travels down the road. All the weight of the trailer would be placed in one spot, minus maybe 200 lbs on the tounge, but a big bump in the center would worry me more than the trailers and my weight disctibuted over three points in a triangle. The best would be 4 screw jacks placed around the 4 courners of the frame before the tounge I would expect. Mine in an 05 that has already sagged from lots of driving around so I am careful to relieve the axel at every chance I get. .
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:52 PM   #20
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Name: Darral
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I too agree with the 13' vs 16' vs 19'ers. And, we do agree on taking the weight off the axle. It HAS to help in keeping the rubber's natural shape longer. You've used your method a long time and it's proven. I always say you cant argue with experience.
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:16 PM   #21
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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I don't worry about the axle. I worry about the tires. I jack it up by the frame close to the axle as I can and support it there. I jack it enough to reduce the tire bulge but not lift the tire off the pavement. I am reducing the load not removing it. I then deploy the stabilizers and front jack and make the trailer level. I feel it is important to reduce stress on the sidewall on the tires. I make sure it is stabilized but not unnecessary force in the frame. I want the door to stay in its original position and not be stressing anything. In my opinion if the door is not in the same position it was when the trailer is just sitting on its tires You are over loading and racking the structure. Most of the small fiberglass trailers I have seen use such lightweight frames that suspending them by the stabilizers with the tires off the ground will probably do them much more harm than good. Best put support on the frame close to the axle where the frame is designed to carry the weight.
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:29 PM   #22
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn bertagnole View Post
So many comments! Here is mine. I ALWAYS use the rear support stands, camping as well as long term storage. They should have come with 2 long steel rods that you may insert so that they will not slip and fall but I have never had this happen.
I use my rear bumper jacks all the time for stabilizing the trailer as well but never would put enough force on them to actually raise the trailer.. Would be worried about twisting the frame if I was to do that.

I had never heard of the jack rob (I only have one) being left in the holes in the jacks to stop it from slipping or failing, have never seen it done either. I always thought the bar was only for snugging up the jacks one notch as it is suggested in the Scamp manual and on their on line owners manual video (choosing a spot). Would think that if you think you have to leave the rod in the jack to stop it from collapsing (dropping back down), if that is what you mean by "slip and fall" then you probable have way to much force on the jack.
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Old 10-07-2014, 07:54 PM   #23
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Name: Wendy Lee
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New York
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I use stabs while camping for just tgst, stabilizing. I believe owners manual cautions about using then as jacks, but I may be wrong. I use jack stands proper to relieve weight in axle during the winter, and mount them near axle on frame, not in axle. I put two near front as well.


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Old 10-07-2014, 08:12 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
I use stabs while camping for just tgst, stabilizing. I believe owners manual cautions about using then as jacks, but I may be wrong.
Your not wrong
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