Stove/Sink Area Replacement - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-05-2008, 05:05 PM   #1
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We just acquired a 1973 Trillium that is a fixer upper. The kitchen area has been damaged. I am looking for info on replacing the entire unit. Including the fiberglass. Has anyone ever done this? Where do I shop? HELP!!! Maybe we are in over our heads.
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Old 12-05-2008, 10:49 PM   #2
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Escape Trailer / Trillium RV Announcement
Since Escape will be building trailers for Trillium RV, I would contact either company for a new kitchen cabinet replacement.
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Old 12-06-2008, 08:41 AM   #3
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Escape Trailer / Trillium RV Announcement
Since Escape will be building trailers for Trillium RV, I would contact either company for a new kitchen cabinet replacement.
Thank you soooo much. I have already fired off an email to them. If I don't do a complete replacement can anyone suggest a link to find a new stovetop replacement? I am so lucky to have found this great web site.
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Old 12-07-2008, 09:44 AM   #4
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Thank you soooo much. I have already fired off an email to them. If I don't do a complete replacement can anyone suggest a link to find a new stovetop replacement? I am so lucky to have found this great web site.
Thanks for the advise. I read a members sink/stove/countertop remodeling and that is the way we are going to go now. Such great ideas. Buy a preformed counter, cut the back off and drop in sink and stove. Not that simple but an easy way to go. Thanks all. georgia g
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Old 12-07-2008, 10:53 AM   #5
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Thanks for the advise. I read a members sink/stove/countertop remodeling and that is the way we are going to go now. Such great ideas. Buy a preformed counter, cut the back off and drop in sink and stove. Not that simple but an easy way to go. Thanks all. georgia g
If possible, it might be best to leave to back on. Water running down the back of the counter top from the sink can be a major moisture problem. If the back is preformed curved laminate, more the better. It would be a much cleaner installed than two piece with caulking.
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:56 PM   #6
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True Donna but the counter is too deep.

Georgia I wonder if you are referring to my Boler kitchen. I did use a preformed counter with a section cut out and the back splash cut down and reattached. So far so good!
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:06 PM   #7
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If possible, it might be best to leave to back on. Water running down the back of the counter top from the sink can be a major moisture problem. If the back is preformed curved laminate, more the better. It would be a much cleaner installed than two piece with caulking.
I think it was your remodel that I read and liked. I am glad you mentioned it again because I didn't remember you telling that you cut it down and then reattached the back. Good idea. Guess you just have to glue/seal the seam where you reattach. Another trip to Home Depot for the front facing. Thanks for the good ideas. Georgia

PS I do the writing/typing and my husband does the work. He likes your ideas.


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Old 12-10-2008, 08:21 PM   #8
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Georgia, I put silicone sealer between the two before screwing them together. I also taped the lines because I hate dealing with smeared silicone. Quickly after screwing the two together I ran my finger along the seam and then took the tape off. Have the paper towels handy!
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:07 PM   #9
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It's been a while since I did any house remodeling, but if I remember correctly the pre-formed "Formica" type countertops that are made for bathrooms are less deep than the kitchen ones. I think they're 20"... or maybe 22"

I also haven't measured the depth of a Trillium countertop, but if they match up, it might be an option.

Another way to use the "factory" backsplash would be to cut off the front and put your own facing on.

Of course the pre-made countertops might be a bit heavy (but maybe not after you cut out for the sink and stove).
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Old 12-11-2008, 07:52 AM   #10
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It's been a while since I did any house remodeling, but if I remember correctly the pre-formed "Formica" type countertops that are made for bathrooms are less deep than the kitchen ones. I think they're 20"... or maybe 22"

I also haven't measured the depth of a Trillium countertop, but if they match up, it might be an option.

Another way to use the "factory" backsplash would be to cut off the front and put your own facing on.

Of course the pre-made countertops might be a bit heavy (but maybe not after you cut out for the sink and stove).
I like the look of the front rounded preformed counters but also see the advantage of having the rounded backsplash. I worried about the weight too but...by the time we cut for the depth, cut out for the sink and stove there shouldn't be too much left and it sure will give it a pretty top with my new black stovetop. I am going to take pictures now that the Trillium is stripped and then another when completed. I HAVE A VISION!!!
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Old 12-11-2008, 10:25 AM   #11
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I like the look of the front rounded preformed counters but also see the advantage of having the rounded backsplash. I worried about the weight too but...by the time we cut for the depth, cut out for the sink and stove there shouldn't be too much left and it sure will give it a pretty top with my new black stovetop. I am going to take pictures now that the Trillium is stripped and then another when completed. I HAVE A VISION!!!
Georgia, I'm in complete agreement, that rounded front is sure a clean look. However, this is in a trailer that goes down the road like an earthquake. Then too, if it's not perfectly level. water could pool and run down between the wall and the counter top causing problems, or the silicone(?) could let go and you wouldn't know it until you found dampness under the counter. Have you considered putting a nice, stained piece of wood on the front lip instead of laminate (match the cupboard doors)? That's the way the oak cabinets/counter tops are in my home and it looks finished and nice. Then you could have the best of both worlds. Measure twice, cut once... because once the cut is made there's no going back. I know the decision you make will be the best for you. Can't wait to see the pictures!
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